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refinishing a sub, what do you think?

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Philip_G, Oct 8, 2003.

  1. Philip_G

    Philip_G Producer

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    I have a knockoff of an adire rava sub, same cabinet I ordered from somewhere (mmexpress or something, I don't remember)
    I'm kind of tired of the honey oak finish and was wondering if you thought I could sand it and refinish it, or maybe it would be easier to just re veneer the thing, I'm not sure about doing the curved sections though. Thanks [​IMG]
     
  2. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    If, by refinish it, you mean stripping and restaining, you're probably going to wind up re-veneering it. It is worth a try tho. You should try to remove the clear coat first. If you know what the finish is, it helps. If not, a furniture stripping product should do.

    Be careful if needing to sand much. The veneer is probably paper thin.

    Pete
     
  3. Philip_G

    Philip_G Producer

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    veneer would be the best, then it would match the mains and center I'm going to build, but I've never done veneer before.

    [​IMG]

    it looks exactly like that sub, what concerns me are the rolled edges on the top, I don't know how to go about veneering them, maybe just do the whole sub from bottom left to bottom right in one part and be done with it? as it sits now there is a seam there. I don't have a router, so I'd have to try and get it in one part, or try to cut it with a razorblade and get the 3 parts to line up perfectly (impossible methinks) On Pat's pae he used the yellow glue/iron method, which I think would work great, but he did all flat panels, no curves, not sure if it would work here.

    I'm not a big fan of oak to begin with, I'd LOVE to get rid of the oak.
     
  4. Dave Milne

    Dave Milne Supporting Actor

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    Philip,
    Pete is right, sanding is risky business on veneer... go very lightly! You should be able to re-veneer it without too much difficulty. If you use the thin paper-backed stuff, you can bend it around a very tight radius as long as the bend is parallel with the grain. Thus you'll end up with the grain running perpendicular to what's shown in your picture. But that's OK. Since the veneer comes in maximum of 4' width (which would only make it all-the-way around a 1' cube) you'll probably have a seam somewhere. That's OK too, a well-made seam is virtually invisible. Look carefully at a piece of furniture, there are seams everywhere! You'll have to do the base separately.

    I've always used contact cement - with reasonable success. Sharp, seamed corners won't take a lot of abuse (dragging across carpet, etc) but I dont move my speakers much.

    Good luck
     
  5. ThomasW

    ThomasW Cinematographer

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    It's probably a Woodstyle box; given the Calif eco regulations it's probably a ultraviolet hardened finish.

    Sure you don't want to grab some of the Parts Express peel and stick vinyl? The cherry looks very good.
     
  6. TimForman

    TimForman Supporting Actor

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    Somebody told me about a thin veneer that has a layer of foil in it. Sand-ply or something like that. It's supposed to be super easy to work with. Anybody heard of it?
     
  7. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    SanPly-4 is what you're talking about. It's VERY nice veneer. Pricy tho. The foil barrier is to prevent top coating penetration into the adhesive. The actual layer of veneer is very thin.

    Pete
     
  8. Philip_G

    Philip_G Producer

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    What do you think about trying to use the yellow glue/iron method around that radius?

    I'm concerned about the seams because of my lack of tools, all of the cutting will have to be done with a razor knife
     
  9. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    You can use the iron-on method on radiuses. Just have to make sure you get it heated evenly and thoroughly. A heat gun can be used on the radiuses effectively. The biggest concern with veneering over radiuses is that they be perfect. They must be flat and true or the veneer will not lay flat.

    As far as seaming, the iron-on method makes it easy because it doesn't stick w/o heat. Plan for the seam on the bottom panel and iron it from the top and down and around each side. Just don't heat the area within 3 or 4" of the seam. Using a flat straightedge, slice thru both layers of the now overlapping veneer with a sharp razor knife. Pull out the cutoffs and iron away.

    Pete
     
  10. Philip_G

    Philip_G Producer

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    Ok [​IMG]
    I'm going to start with my square center channel first, then I'll move on to the sub. I think I should be able to do this.
     
  11. Chris Keen

    Chris Keen Stunt Coordinator

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    I just remembered a "wood" appropriate joke. I know it doesn't add much value to this thread or topic, but I thought it was pretty good. If this in some way violates some rules or is found to be offensive, then please delete it....

    Joke:



    There are two old trees on top of a hill a Birch and a Beech. The two old trees are talking one day about tree stuff, when one of the trees looks down and notices a young sappling sprouting up from the ground between them. "Hey! Look at that. Do you think that's a son-of-a-beech, or a son-of-a-birch?" "I don't know?"

    A while later, a wood-pecker flies up and lands on one of the trees branches and starts to peck away. One of the trees says to the wood-pecker, "say... can you do us a favor, and go down there and see if that's a son-of-a-beech, or a son-of-a-birch?" "Why sure," says the wood-pecker. The wood-pecker flies down and lands on the young sappling and pecks a way. The two older trees inquire, "Well, what is it? A son-of-a-beech or a son-of-a-birch?" The wood-pecker stops and looks up and yells, "My friends ... this is neither a son-of-a-beech, nor a son-of-a-birch. This is the best piece of ash I've had my pecker in, in a long time!"
     
  12. Philip_G

    Philip_G Producer

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    hey, one last question, is any wood glue acceptable? I have a big bottle of elmer's yellow wood glue.
     
  13. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Philip,

    That should be fine. I've used it as well as Tite Bond glue. I know a lot of people prefer the Tite Bond stuff, and that's what be usually buy now, but I've never had a problem with the Elmer's wood glue.
     
  14. Philip_G

    Philip_G Producer

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    Just a followup.
    I tried the yellow glue method and it didn't work very well for me, contact cement worked much better. I have all but one end done, and it looks pretty nice. A little sanding, a little staining and I think the speaker will look great.
     

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