Nathan_R
Supporting Actor
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2000
- Messages
- 717
Is your macrovision "off"? Turning mine back on fixed all playback problems (and still allows me to upconvert).
~~Nathan
~~Nathan
I may have to do something about that red light around the power button when the unit is off. Who thought that was a good idea?It makes it easier for thieves to find the unit in the dark.
Does anyone think the pic quality (forget the features and the poor remote) is as good as the Panny RP-82/XP-30/XP-50?
I wonder if the LiteOn with it's conversion to 1080i in the box would help with the old Toshiba RPTV upconversion issues from the past 2 yearsA 1080i input bypasses Toshiba's upconversion completely, so the answer is yes!
So how do we update the firmware?After you download the zipped file from LiteOn's website, you get a Nero .nrg (image) file, which you can simply open in Nero & burn onto a CD-R. You also get raw files, which you can put together & burn as directed. Word & Acrobat instructions are included. The firmware flashing starts automatically when you insert your CD-R into the player. It takes about 1-2 mins., with the progress shown on the player's LCD display. (I had my player in 1080i, so maybe that's why it didn't show onscreen.) Anyway, do NOT disturb the player while it's flashing! When done, the disc tray will open automatically. Take the CD-R out & press Power to turn the unit off, then Power back on. You're done. The new firmware version will be shown when you go to the Setup menu.
Usually on RPTVs, the brightness subsetting is global, and not local to each scanrate.Robert, the Toshiba's and Pansonic's that I routinely calibrate do indeed maintain different brightness level offsets for a 1080i scan rate. On the Toshiba's, there are seperate brightness offsets for NTSC, 480i component, 480p and 1080i scan rates. On the Panasonic, there are seperate settings for 480i and 1080i.
Also, the Lighter/Darker setting on DVD players is to set to black level at zero of 7.5 IRE. 7.5 IRE is the standard black level for NTSC video and 0 IRE is the standard level for any type of component video signal. Which you pick really doesn't matter, as long as you match the level on the TV. A PLUGE test pattern is all you need.
When I get the Liteon, I'll hook it up to my personal (and, of course, calibrated ) Toshiba 46H83 and I should be able to tell instantly whether the units black level is incorrect.