Question about Dayton subs? (1 Viewer)

[Joe Tilley]

Im just trying to find out if anybody has used these subs and if they are worth looking into for a diy sub.What Im looking at is the Titanic MKII 1202 from parts express,I would most likeley be goging with two of these in a single enclouser,if that would be possable.What Im after is something that will play down in the 16 to 18hz range without getting boomey.As far as powering these I was thinking about eather two plate amps part#300-794 250 watts each or the samson s700 or s1000.
I must say Ive never built a home sub before so this will be new to me as far as a good design and tuning goes,building it will be no problem as I have pretty good carpentry skills (well I can read a tape mesure:b )just kidding anyway Id be greatfull for any suggustions or comments. Thanks in adavance....

 

[Robert_J]

This will get more hits if a moderator moves it to the DIY section.

The last I heard, this new sub is still not available. Check the PE Tech Board for more info.

As for Dayton in general they are a great value. This weekend, I'll be building a sub for a friend using the 12" DVC and 300-794 amp. The rest of his system consists of two-way speakers using Dayton 6.5" woofers and silk dome tweeters and a pair of Dayton in-ceiling speakers for surrounds.

-Robert

 

[Joe Tilley]

Robert,I dont know why I didnt think to put it there is there any way I can move it. Thanks

 

[Craig Woodhall]

I used the Dayton 15" and was very happy with it.. I did in time switch to the Tempest 15" just cus I like Adire Audio.. You won't be disappointed with the dayton, Im sure!

 

[Dan Hine]

My sub is built around Dayton's 12" DVC and I love it. I cost me just as much to build as my Polk Audio PSW 250 cost from Circuit City and let me tell you there is NO comparison. And I'm getting great results by just using a Technics receiver I had laying around (about 100 total watts maybe). If you go with the Dayton contact Kyle Richardson of Link Removed. Great guy to work with and is usually a touch cheaper.
Dan Hine

 

[Jack Gilvey]

I've used that Dayton 12" DVC in sealed and passive radiator subs, both with basically the same amp (Adire AVA250). Very good performer in each instance (amazing, actually, with the PR's), a real value at the regular price, a steal on sale.

 

[Joe Tilley]

Thanks again guys for all your replyes and hay Jack those are both some damn good lookin subs .Something else is there anywhere I can get some design plans for a good box Im not fimaler with tuning at all and I wont to get the best performance I can.Another thing what would be the best way to go as far as a sealed,ported,or pr type enclouser goes,I mostley watch movies about 75% so music is not a big issue but I would still like it to be fairley compatable with eather. Thanks once again for your help..
Joe

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Joe,
What are your limits as far as size and budget, and what size is your room?
As far as your original question, Karl from PE just posted an update on the status of the Titanic Mk. II. Looks like a very promising driver.

 

[Joe Tilley]

Jack, as far as my budget goes I wont to try and stay around $800 to mabey $1000 but no more than that. As far as room size right now my room is 16'by 18'by 8',but Im soon planning on building a theater room at 16'by 24'by 10'so right now Im kinda cramped but I will have plenty of room down the road Im planning on this spring to start constrution on my new room.

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Well, that kinda DIY budget can get you into some really excellent performance. Have you checked out the "sonotube projects" link at the top of the DIY forum? A Tempest sub or two with a good amp could fit the bill nicely.

 

[Joe Tilley]

OK,well I think Im on my way to building a sonosub,I went today and picked up a 16"by 4'sonotube now what Im not sure is how will I tune this beast to say around 20 to 25 hz or will it be possable cause I plan on cutting it down to about 38" so it will be the same hight as my other speakers.Also is it necessary to reinforce the tube cause if ya ask me this thing is not all that strong,what I was thinking is adding a few layers of fiberglass to the outside of the tube to beef it up some.

Im not sure what driver to go with eather I was looking at the dayton MKII 1202 but it will not be ava for another month and I wont to build it now.

Thanks for any help.. Joe

 

[Brian Bunge]

Joe,

Well, since you have a 16" tube you are pretty much limited to a 12" driver. I'd think you would be better off with the DVC 12 and the 4" Aeroport. A 142.5L enclosure tuned to around 20Hz would be nice. But from my calculations an enclosure with that volume using a 16" tube would have to be 43" long internally. This doesn't take into account if you use 1.5" MDF caps, which would take up another 3" internally. That would make the tube at least 46" tall. Then there's the height of the legs to take into consideration.

Maybe one of the other ported Alignments on the Adire website would work well. I haven't checked those out yet. Then again, you may want a sealed enclosure. If so, your 38" total height is more feasible.

Brian

 

[Joe Tilley]

IS there any way I could get a 15"dvc to sound right in this I can leave the tube its full 48" length if needed?MY problem is Im ready to build it right know and every 12" sub Ive come across is out of stock :frowning: (parts express)
Thanks Joe

 

[Jack Gilvey]

IS there any way I could get a 15"dvc to sound right in this I can leave the tube its full 48" length if needed?

Absolutely! If you really wanted to go with a sealed 15" Dayton DVC (not a bad choice at all, and a sealed is certainly a good first project), I'd go with as much voume as possible (the whole tube) for excellent quality and really good in-room extension.

The tube, once the endcaps are in place, is suitably rigid and resonance-free to make an excellent subwoofer enclosure. It wouldn't make a good chair, but it fits this purpose well without any reinforcement beyond the endcaps.

It has an advantage not in the materials, but in the cylindrical shape.

 

[Brian Bunge]

I just wonder if a 15" driver in a 16" tube is going to leave any room for binding posts. There may not be much of an edge between the driver and the tube itself either.

Brian

 

[Dustin B]

Here is a picture of the bottom of my Tempest (essentially the same size as a DVC 15") in an 18" sonotube. The legs are 1.5" square.

So you'd have to mount the legs to the outside of the tube like Mike Knapp did. And I think you'd have to use those binding posts that you screw into the endcap rather than mount with a input cup. Like these:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...14966&CATID=39

 

[Jack Gilvey]

It'd be a tight fit, no doubt, and it would depend on the actual diameter of the tube nad outside width of the driver.
I think a pair like http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&User_ID=4680654&st=3431&st2=87817642&st3=-42998361&Product_ID=2444&CATID=48

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Edit: Hehe, we had the same idea. I didn't even think about the legs, of course.

 

[Dustin B]

Guess I should have linked this too. Here is a link to some pics of the basic idea for attaching legs to the side of the tube.
http://www.hometheatertalk.com/DIY_P...b/sonosub.html
And Jack, my posts are better than yours :p)
Kidding, but if you go to the connectors area of Parts Express they have some nicer drill mount type binding posts. It's strange they don't list them in both places.

 

[Jack Gilvey]

I saw those Dayton posts in the flyer, think I'll try a pair next time, very nice.