Question about AVIA/WEGA calibration (1 Viewer)

[KevinO]

I have calibrated my new 36FS13 with AVIA. When I used the color bars to calibrate saturation, I followed the instructions and I am happy with the results. But when I go to the "color calibration" check screen with the red/green/blue bars to determine red push, the brightness of the blue at the 0% rectangle doesn't match the gray background. The disc says that if they don't match, go back and adjust saturation and hue. I have double and triple checked saturation and hue, and am convinced they are properly set. The rectangle on the "check" screen that matches the gray background seems to be either -15% or -20% for blue. Does anyone have an idea of what's going on here? Thans in advance!

 

[JasonRH]

I had the same problem with my 27FS-12. Saturation and hue were set correctly but I couldn't get the color decoder check to be accurate. I was also getting a -15 to -20% blue level and red was oversaturated when I brought blue up.
The solution is to disable the red push in the service menu and then set saturation and hue. The color decoder check should be much better if you do this.
If you don't know about the service menu, send me an e-mail and I'll tell you how to enter it and disable red push.
I should tell you that messing around in the service menu can mess other parameters up so it's a good idea to write down all the values for every item before you change anything. I think one other item changed when I disabled red push but it wasn't anything to worry about.
Good luck.

 

[KevinO]

Thanks Jason, I did go into the service menu to disable red push. I didn't think that red push would have anything to do with color saturation/hue settings, however, since there is no red in the AVIA color bars when using the blue filter. I have to go back and re-check my AVIA settings.

 

[JasonRH]

With red push disabled the color decoder check should allow you to increase saturation and bring the blue level up without the red becoming oversaturated. Maybe your problem is different than mine was : initially I would set saturation and hue correctly using the flashing bars pattern and that would leave the blue bar in the color decoder check 20% undersaturated and red level oversaturated, so increasing saturation to make blue better made red oversaturate even more. Disabling red push via AXPL parameter allowed me to increase saturation to acceptable levels and kept red levels via the red filter at 0 %, which is what you want.
How is your red level compared to your blue in your color decoder check?

 

[KevinO]

I'm a little confused. When saturation is set using the color bars, (with red push enabled) shouldn't the blues look correct and the red look oversaturated? I thought that would be the case, and once red push was disabled all of the colors should look correct without having to go back to the color bars. I guess my question is should I be using the color bars to set saturation and hue or should I be using the the "color decoder check"? They seem to be giving me different results, with or without red push disabled.

 

[JasonRH]

I would use the flashing bars patterns to check for correctness over the decoder check, since the decoder check is much more subjective.

 

[Steve Schaffer]

For me the color decoder check is more informative than actually useful for calibration. I just used the flashing bars to get into the "ballpark", then turned down color until all the color bars looked equally intense. Then I put in a dvd movie on which the cinematographer hasn't fooled around with the color (5th Element is good) and adjust Color until fleshtones look natural, neither pale nor blushy.
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Steve S.
I prefer not to push the subwoofers until they're properly run in.