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Prices rising, wood stud VS metal studs (1 Viewer)

brentl

Senior HTF Member
Joined
May 7, 1999
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Hey folks

I'm about 2 months(and a busy moving day) from starting my HT room in the basement, and with the prices of wood expected to rise some 70% I'm worried the cost for wood studs may get extreme.

What are the positives and negatives of using both wood and metal studs for construction of a dedicated room.

I won't be doing a staggered wall, but I will be using insulation.

I heard of many people using wood, but nobody using metal.

Thanks

Brent
 

chris_everett

Second Unit
Joined
Jul 20, 2003
Messages
403
If you use metal, I would recommend that you use Resilient channel. My understanding is that with metal studs you use some sort of channel anyway, so the cost difference should be minimal.

Wood, for most DIY'ers, is easier to work with, and more readily available. (No metal studs at Lowes)
 

Thomas_A

Second Unit
Joined
Feb 2, 2001
Messages
398
I highly recomend not using metal studs. My orgional part of the house is metal studs and a pain in the ass. My contractor added wood studs next too all the metal studs on the contstruction on old exposed walls. My walls with metal studs are noisier also- even with insulation. Just my experience.
Thomas.
 

brentl

Senior HTF Member
Joined
May 7, 1999
Messages
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I'm going to do some rough prices today at Rona, and Home Depot, I' really worried about the cost of wood jumping quickly, but I have no place to store a bunch of 2 by 4s

This also gives me the chance to grab a nice compound mitre saw.

Is there any need to put the plastic wrap on the outside(betweeen the insulation and the drywall) of the insulation?? and should I pick up a hammer stapler??

Thanks
Brent
 

Thomas_A

Second Unit
Joined
Feb 2, 2001
Messages
398
Not that its proper or not...but neither builder did any xtra wrapping between the two.
I picked up a combo compresser/3-gun set at the home depot which came in quite handy. As far as a hammer stapler....that would probably be up to you.
 

chris_everett

Second Unit
Joined
Jul 20, 2003
Messages
403
You should have some sort of vapor barrier on the exterior walls, I assume that's what your talking about. You can get insulation with it built in. I just used a reguler staple gun.
 

brentl

Senior HTF Member
Joined
May 7, 1999
Messages
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I haven' quite firgured whether it will be an exterior wall or not, I may just build it with 2' around it, andht eonly thing touching would be the ceiling.

Staple gun just seems a lot slower though.

I'm pretty much set on wood stud, but what's the idea behind 2x4's that are 92(and some change)" tall?? are these actually made for basements?? I could save a lot of cutting if I used these then.

Brent
 

chris_everett

Second Unit
Joined
Jul 20, 2003
Messages
403
When you say "build with 2' around it do you mean:

Existing Exterior (of the house) wall
2' air space
New Theater wall

Or something else. That seems like a lot of space to burn.

The "sandwitch" of an exterior wall should look something like this:

Exterior siding
Plywood
Insulation and studs
Vapor barrier
Drywall
 

Tony Amich

Auditioning
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
6
Brent - as for the wall studs being 92" and some change, this is the typical height of most ceilings in an 8' high room. Once you add the bottom rail, and 2 top rails, you will be at the 96" mark which gives you your 8'. email me with any buolding questions. I just addded a second story to my house and in it will be my first dedicated home theatre.
[email protected]
 

brentl

Senior HTF Member
Joined
May 7, 1999
Messages
2,921
Sorry Tony

What I meant was that I plan on having a buffer around the rood, and I'm even contemplating finishing the outside all the way around.

I may even mount posters on the outside and lights too.

It will make for a room that doesn't transmit much noise.

Brent
 

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