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Pre-wire for projector? (1 Viewer)

DaveF

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"Storage" under the stairs is a closet with a door. I explained it and got approval from my wife (that is, has no competing plans for that closet :) So I can make that baseline.

I see some flexibility on ultimate design (electronics in closet or retro-fit an integrated rack in "top" wall, and that makes me more comfortable. It will probably need a remote repeater, which I don't like, but ok.

I'm still vacillating on subwoofer placement. Front wall or side? I don't have a good corner for it.

0bd37af8_BasementMediaRoughin.png
 

DaveF

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The downside is it adds $500+ to the prewire cost to go to a full 5.1 pre-wire.

That is, pre-wiring costs:
2 x rears is $200
5.1 is $750
 

Jim Mcc

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DaveF said:
The downside is it adds $500+ to the prewire cost to go to a full 5.1 pre-wire.
That is, pre-wiring costs:
2 x rears is $200
5.1 is $750
WOW, those prices are ridiculous. Can you do the wiring yourself before they drywall?
 

DaveF

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Can't do it myself. Minimally I'd need a million dollar insurance policy for operating on the construction site. And I don't know VA electrical code :)
And those prices are far better than I was seeing seven years ago.
 

DaveF

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If I run conduit, what do I have to make sure of so I can get HDMI (or whatever) through it in the future?
* Diameter?
* Ribbon pre-run?
* Min / Max bends so I can pull?

Basically, i can have the builder run conduit, or the pre-wire company do HDMI.
 

Brian Dobbs

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try to have no more than 2 bends.
yes, put an industrial strength pull string in there with 5 ft. pigtail on both ends
diameter = no less than 2 inches. 2 1/2 - 3 is preferable.
 
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Dear Dave,
You will never have buyer remorse for going with projection. With front projection you get size, and size matters. The PJ's today offer better contrast ratio, less screen door and rainbow effects. The custom labor they are quoting is awesome cheap! When I installed for HiFi Sales AZ, we charged much more for prewire.
Did you guys work out the reason for dual HDMI runs? Cannot a HDMI hub interface both an AV preamp processor, and a gaming system simultaneously? I agree with having conduit of 2" installed. The builder may be a better deal than the AV contractor. Pull the cables to the rear. I agree with remotely located equipment (to avoid distracting light from LCD's and LED's from taking you away from being immersed into the film). Use a Xantech IR repeater to control your equipment. You may want to run a yellow RCA composite from the PJ with the HDMI in case you wanted to connect a baby's camera, or front door camera to view on the large screen.
 

DaveF

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Builder is telling me 1-1/2" conduit. He and the electrician were confident this would work well, though maybe they've never pushed through HDMI. Builder said they can leave a ribbon behind, but noted I could use fish tape when it's time.

Two major bends, 90-deg from wall to ceiling, and then ceiling to final exit. I could reduce it to one bend if I exit the ceiling a few feet before the likely projector mount location. There's some aesthetics downside to that, but could really make the wire pull easier.


I'll ask about 2" conduit, but I'm inclined to go with the conduit even at 1.5". The futurproofing value in case HDMI specs change, or is even completely replaced, makes me feel better than having HDMI pre-wired. (I just imagine the pain of someone prewiring VGA or even DVI a decade ago.)
 

Sam Posten

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DaveF said:
Jedi?
No conduit. (rather, I can do conduit but then I have to do the HDMI myself afterwards.)
Just Do It. If it's important enough for you to be paying this much attention to it just do it and move on =) No more Analysis Paralysis!
 

DaveF

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It's less paralysis, more ignorance :) I was equally worried about getting the wrong conduit over HDMI being replaced in the next few years.

The Builder said it might be smooth or it might "smurf" conduit. I googled the smurfing conduitit: blue flexible tubing.
http://www.google.com/search?q=smurf+conduit&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=jgblT8nmEYbe0QGpqu3TCQ&ved=0CI0BELAE&biw=1266&bih=768

HDMI cable is about 3/4" across at the widest. So 2" would be better. But 1 1/2" should work.

Thanks for the input. Conduit is the way to go on my video run. Cheaper up front. More future-proof the next few years. The biggest risk is I ditch the whole projector dream and go with an 80" LCD. Then I'm borked because my pre-wire will be all wrong ;)




If there are any other thoughts on pre-fab for a future projector, I'm all ears. I've already moved my proposed pre-wire location to out of line-of-sight, and switched from conduit over pre-wire based on your suggestions.
 

DaveF

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The goal is for a projector in a year or two. But the basement will be finished with construction. I could do no pre-wiring currently and save the money up front. But then I'd be tearing apart a finished basement to do the wiring when the time comes (or go with external conduit).

So I'm taking the chance of trying to plan now for what I think I'll want in the future, at risk of wasting some money if my plans are wrong :)


I've only had an hour or so demo of a basement HT with projector, which I enjoyed. And it's always seemed like great way to go, even for TV and video games. But there is the risk that when the time comes, the projector market is getting killed by 4K 100"+ TVs from Apple :)
 

Steve Tannehill

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Jim Mcc said:
Another option is the HUGE DLP TV's by Mitsubishi.
I'll second that...when I got mine last year, it was the mid-sized 73-inch model. Now 73-inches is the smallest they sell.
 

DaveF

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Here's the current plan. And because I'm lazy, my house pre-wire costs are there. The green square is 14' projector location. I may need to move the Conduit & AC location forward a few feet to line up with the side wall pre-wire, and remove a 90-bend in the ceiling.*

* Not so sure about that. It would place the output around 11', and probably require 2' - 4' of external wire along the ceiling for a realistic projector location of 14' from the screen.
d22f5224_Prewire.001.png



"Wet bar" is plumbing rough-in.
 

DaveF

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