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Panamax Product Comparison (1 Viewer)


Mar 29, 2003
I'm looking into a Panamax product for my system and am considering the following:
A/V 4310
A/V 5100

In talking to my dealer, the Max8 model and the 4310 are essentially the same, you're just paying more to have it in a HT component instead of a strip plus the Balanced-L filtration. As best I can tell the 5100 only gives you 2 more plugs with more flexibility to configure always on/delayed/high current etc, and a slightly higher surge rejection capability ofr +$100.

I'm leaning toward the Max8DBS+5, any real reason to spend twice as much? In the end, I'm looking at about $12k of equipment connected through this piece.


Bill Kane

Feb 5, 2001

I think you’re looking at some solid, mainstream surge protectors, that standing alone in the system, will do the job of protecting your equipment from surge/spikes and RF/EMI noise probably 99 percent of the time.

Since you don’t seem to be lusting over some undefined “power line conditioner” and don’t report any power delivery and/or ground loop worries, there’s no reason not to go for the Max8DBS-Plus for under $100 online Here

Truth is, lightning is quite rare for most people, being geographical/climate dependent, and power delivery is usually quite stable year-round. That’s why MOV type surge protectors last so long, despite their built-in “degradation” tendencies.

In the industry, there are various points of view over what percentage of dangerous surge/spikes originate within the user system and that which comes from the external grid. What we are told is that we need protection from both common mode and differential surge/spikes. A good manufacturer’s spec sheet wud address this, and I think Panamax does.

Since you say your system is exceeding $10,000, an extra $200 or so more for surge protection with AC line filtering isn’t out of line – cheaper than some spring for upper-end cables!

What I am leading up to is the suggestion for a homeowner to investigate and have installed a whole-house surge suppressor at the MainService panel. A start-out level wud be the Intermatic unit for some $75, plus the electrician’s bill. This cud be coupled with having any electrician run a 20A dedicated power circuit to the entertainment center while he’s on your clock.

The only way a stand-alone surge protector will “save” electronic gear from major zaps is by providing a ground path from the equipment via the same circuit wiring that carries the hot and neutral conductors. The beauty of whole-house is that it sits say 10 feet from the master house ground earth stake or pipe clamp. This is the shortest grounding path for outside surge/spikes. Because some surge/spikes may originate inside the house system, using a box like the Max8 assures redundancy at the wall outlet.

And of course a whole-house unit umbrellas ALL one’s appliances, garage-door opener, etc where power enters the residence. Given wiring location, some whole-house will accept cabletv coax via built-in F-terminal pass-thrus, as well as telewire. Depends on your situation and risk level. Smarthome.com depicts some whole-house units to compare.

In the end, whole-house may not be possible, so it’s advised to look at renters insurance to see what the replacement/repair/value riders in the policy may cover.


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