Newbie contact cement question

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Wes Nance, Sep 16, 2002.

  1. Wes Nance

    Wes Nance Stunt Coordinator

    Jan 1, 2002
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    I'm in the middle of my first try at veneering, with a subwoofer cabinet.

    Here's a newbie question, but I need more detail-

    What are you guys using to apply the contact cement- a brush, a roller? Do you throw it away each time, or try to clean it?

    I used a brush today, and it seemed to take a lot of coats to get good coverage, and sometimes part of the coat would start to dry while I was still trying to get it all covered, and then it would get kind of rough, etc.

    The one side I did went on OK (I did the back first). I did tear out a small piece on the bottom when trimming.

    I used a flush trim bit, but had trouble with it leaving a paper/cement residue on the side the bearing was riding on.

    Anyway, just hoping for more information. I'm sure I'll learn more as I go just from the experience.


  2. Clay Autery

    Clay Autery Stunt Coordinator

    Oct 23, 2000
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    On my 24" x 24" flexi shelves I used a 1.5" oil-based finish brush... I bought three of them just in case...
    I was using WilsonArt H20... If you are using the volatile stuff, this won't help...
    The H2O dries a bit slower, which is good with a brush...
    It took 2 coats on MDF face surfaces, but edges generally took three... one seal, one build, one to bond... [​IMG]
    I got an unexpectedly smooth coating considering I was using a brush... I thought it'd be rougher...
    In between pieces, or coats, I simply put the brush in a cup of water (level just over the level of the cement on the bristles). To store between sessions, I rinsed the brush til water was clear and THEN put in a fresh cup of water right to the metal part...
    Only had to use two brushes in 5 days.... Could have gotten away with one, but I wanted a fresh one to do the faces of the shelves...
    That paper/glue residue is due to the bit not being exactly perpendicular to the cut plane.... probably due to a cut not being square... I had the same exact problem...
    And sometimes it just simply happens with a straight bit...
    What you need is a dedicated laminate/veneer bit designed to pull or push (depending on the setup... table or free w/ bearing... What you want is for the bit to shear cut the venner such that it is pulling the cut into the piece rather than pulling the venner away from the piece...
    I didn't know this... do now... will never use a straight, flush bit for veneer/laminate again if I can avoid it... [​IMG]
    You can "clean up" the residue if you plan on beveling the edges... simply by setting the bit appropriately... Though you have to make sure that you cut the acute and obtuse angled edges separately, with the bit set accordingly...
  3. Will Orth

    Will Orth Stunt Coordinator

    Sep 14, 2002
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    Well i have done a lot with formica-laminatie-wilsonart.

    The "PRO GUYS" use regular wood glue with a 5 ton press and let it set for 24 hrs, now that is hard for us guys, what I do is use 3M Contact cement 5 gallon buckets and "spray it on" no brush AS YOU GET LUMPS and is hard to get those out! there is way to much info to tell you how to do this perfect as it is an hands on deal and you need the right router-trimmer. and things to have to be good on that day for a good turn out. the trick is what piece to lay first.

    hope that helps.

  4. Allan Jayne

    Allan Jayne Cinematographer

    Nov 1, 1998
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    With "contact cement" you actually cover both surfaces that will be glued to each other, and let the cement dry for a few minutes before putting the two surfaces together. So the fact the cement started to dry before the surface was fully covered is not a problem.
    Video hints:

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