New FPTV in 143X128 sized room! (1 Viewer)

[David Proud]

I have a small room and am going to take the FPTV plunge. I really miss the big screen effect I got in the theater.
here is what I wanna use the projector for.
Xbox Games via the 480P,720P or 1080I component outputs of the XBOX
DVD movies via a good 480P dvd player out the component outputs.
Now that means I have 2 component sources.
Now I have heard people talk about how bad games are for burning the tubes?
I hate to have to pay 5X more for an inferior picture quality DLP or LCD just to play my games on, will CRT work for games?
Now onto screen size. I wanna get immersed into the screen. I know the 1.5 * width rule, does this only apply to 16:9 screens? . I was thinking of a 1:85:1 screen in the neighborhood of 80 inches wide. My eyese are bad, best correction for them is 20/40 with contacts. So I may be able to sit a little closer without seeing video problems that the average person with good eyes
My seating position is 93" from the wall where the projectors screen will be installed. and my total room size is 143LX128WX8ft height.
Inputs since I have at least 2 compenent devices in the theater, I will need some way to hook 2 of the up to the projector at one time, or some kinda hi definition component switching system. What you would recommend.
Cable lenghts, my xbox and dvd player will be at the front of the room in the rack below the center speaker and between my two front speakers. I imagine I would need at least 15 to 25ft for video cable runs. Is this too long of a run. Remember I am used to a 3ft run to a wega tv.
Paint color, my room is painted birght white right now, will I need to repaint everything, floor to celing for the projection system. all comments suggestions welcome, Thanks guys!

 

[Matt Stryker]

David-
I'm in zipcode 30067 (285/Chattahoochee) and I have an "inferior" NEC LT150 if you would like to check it out. My room is slightly bigger than yours (11'x12'x8') but it should be a good representation. My screen is 60x80"
On a CRT, extended use of games will damage the tubes; you can always keep your old TV and use it for games. Your choice of projector will dictate your screen size; check projectorcentral.com for throw distance and screen size estimates. I bought my screen from Jason Turk at AVScience.com they will match prices and he gave me a great deal.
Does your receiver do component switching?

 

[David Proud]

I would love to come see it.

Thanks,

David

 

[NathanP]

I was chating with a couple of dudes on the AVS who had crt's.
A few of them have played PS2 on their's for more then 5 hours at a time and nothing happens to their crt.
In my opinion, CRT's are a MUST and burn in usually takes longer then a few hours to happen..
If you need more info, go to www.avsforum.com , everyone there has a crt projector and they would be glad to help.

 

[GaryM]

David,
I use an XGA-resolution, 1000-lumen LCD projector, the NEC VT-540, which otherwise is pretty similar feature-wise to Matt's LT-150 (I auditioned both in my home). Either of these projectors offers compatibility with all three XBOX video modes you mentioned via the internal scaler circuitry. My room is 14X15 feet with a cathedral ceiling from 7.5-14 feet.
My screen is 4:3 to match the projector aspect ratio. This is an important decision and I suggest you read the following article before making it:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/cons...cfm?ci=formats
My screen is 90" diagonal measure (72"X54")and I drive the projector with a Home Theater PC (HTPC) to maximize video performance. This is the constant-width setup the article above discusses, and I maximize viewing performance with movable masking so the picture is always framed in black, regardless of source aspect ratio.
I'm a former triple-CRT projector owner and I would never go back - too big, too heavy, too hard to tweek, and ruinously expensive to re-tube if you do get burn-in (mine got junked). I question your cost figures - I paid less than $3000 for my digital projector, considerably less than my old CRT, and for a better, much brighter unit.
I picked the screen size based on projector throw - I mounted it atop a 7' tall existing bookcase on the rear wall, and got a 90" diagonal image projecting slightly less than 13' to the opposite wall. This figure results from what is called the throw ratio of the projector. In the same place, Matt's fixed-throw LT-150 would have a fixed picture about 118.5", whereas my zoom-equipped VT-540 can be between 83-99".
In terms of how close you sit: I can get 5 adults in a single arc in my room at about 1.7 screen widths, a comfortable distance still affording total immersion in the movie. Alternatively, I sometimes drag my favorite chair up to 1 screen width away, and discard my glasses (20/25 vision, astigmatism only) for the "big screen experience" akin to sitting in the first 1/4th of the theater seating. While wearing my glasses at that distance, I would see the individual pixels which would not present the illusion of film I am seeking.
I suggest:
1) Decide what your objectives are for screen size and seating distance.
2) Decide what a convenient projector location is - the back wall is the best choice in a small room, and a shelf on the wall only costs about $15. (Oddly enough, you probably end up suspending the projector under the shelf near the same height as the top of the screen - out of the way and further from your ears - projectors have fans.)
3) Audition as many projector technologies as you can, to see if you have a strong preference. For example 10-15% of any audience can see "rainbows" on DLP projectors, and some are painfully sensitive to them. Others object to the slightly more visible pixel structure on an LCD. Some just feel comforted by scan lines on CRT projectors (just like TV, only bigger). Whatever floats your boat.
4) Pick a projector with a throw ratio to acheive this size goal from the rear wall location, and also with the other features you need (inputs, brightness, etc.). Use the projector caluculator at http://www.projectorcentral.com/ to figure out these things. (After owning one fixed throw and one zoom projector, zoom is really very nice.)
5) Cables up to 25' or 8 meters are off-the-shelf at your local hifi or video place. Longer gets expensive.
6) A little more thought needs to go into front projection, versus the BBB (Big Black Box - a rear projection TV). It's undeniably worth it, however.
Gary

 

[Matt Stryker]

Its not necessarily just time, its repetition. I play the same 3-4 games most of the time, so over time the burn in will occur on a CRT.

David, I'm hanging my screen tonight and I'll send you an email when I'm done; maybe sometime next week?

 

[andyg]

I use my FPTV for the DVD, LD, HDTV, PC, and Xbox. Since my room is dark already, the contrast and brightness are only 1/3 the way up. If the set is properly setup in a dark room (The only way for a FPTV) you will not have any problems using a game systems (assuming a resonable period of play. I use mine for no more than an hour at a time with the xbox.) The game system burn in problem is related to people who use RPTV's and use the factory settings which are usually WAY too high. Good luck in your project. I have been enjoying mine for the last few years. Checkout my website for pics and a diary of my progress....

---Andy Garabedian

 

[David Proud]

Some things that are important to me are Anomorphic enhanced resolution and noise.

Noise someone might say?

Yes, I am very anal about my noise floor in my room and want a projector to not be heard or barely heard when in a silent passage of the movie

 

[David Proud]

with my room so small I think that I would rather have a 16X9 screen, the size 45X80 sounds ideal to me. I would like to place the screen bottom of it 35 inches off the floor and top 80 inches off the floor.
The room is 8ft in height and
my seating position will be 93 inches back from the front wall.
the thing is my eyes are bad, real bad, I see 20X40 at best with contacts so I think I can get away sitting closer than the average joe
Hell,I never see screen door unless I put my eyes up to the screen, call it an advantage of being blind, does this mean I can get an el cheapo projector since I can not see the differences anyway? hehehe
Now onto what projector? I need the projector to be as quit as possible and be maximized for anmorphic DVD sources. I need all the resolution I can get sitting 93" from a 45X80 sized screen.
Masking for the screen, I will need to mask it to allow for 4X3 sources. Do I just put some curtains in the front of the room and pull them to cover the sides for 4:3 sources or do I buy some kinda masking system. I guess I will have to mask 4 ways :frowning:
I am a big audio freak. I am really into sound and wanna keep the noise floor down to a minimum. I am guessing I will need to buy or make a hush box for my projector to keep my theater quit in quit passages. Any suggestions of 16X9 projectors with low noise output. I wanna keep the noise floor virtually silent.
now onto the cable issue, since my xbox and dvd player will be at the front of the room between my two front speakers. I am not crazy about moving my audio gear. I imagine I will have to have two component audio runs of 20ft. Unfortunately my AVR-4800 has component video switching but from what I understand it is not capable of switching Hi definition component or progressive signals, perhaps I need to upgrade receivers
Anything else I need to cover?
Oh yeah, for the projector, I will need a power plug for it mounted from ceiling, is this correct?
Thanks,
David

 

[Matt Stryker]

David-
If quietness is a big concern, you may also look at enclosing the PJ in a hushbox:
http://www.whisperflow.com
Either bought or you can build it yourself. This also sheilds it from dust, spills, etc.

 

[David Proud]

also for color, what the heck color do I paint my room this weekend. I hate to use black, I have been told black is the best, but is there any other color like a baby blue or something. what colors will work in a FPTV setup. Right now I have ralph lauren bright white in there.

Good suggestions on the silencer device. I am looking for a virtual silent noise floor so a box like this in combination with a quiet projector should work great for me.

 

[Matt Stryker]

I think black or medium grey are preferable, but I've also seen lots of people use a dark green or dark blue. The most important thing is to get matte finish, not gloss.

 

[RAF]

Wow! I'm sure glad I have an "inferior" LCD projector instead of one of those CRT's with the burn in problems. Guess I'll just have to switch on the ole' X-Box and continue to play games with my VW10HT to console myself.
Whew!

 

[David Proud]

Guys you have me sold on LCD/DLp in fact I am very much interested in the one you have Robert. I gotta have my xbox games on the big screen. Besides like I said, my eyes suck so why go out and buy a big heavy CRT Also size went into my decision. But the main thing is, I gotta have big screen gaming action.
Games = 50% of my time
Movies = 50% of my time
so I would say, LCD or DLP would best.
I am looking for a 16:9 projector to display a 45X80 image.
Now if I could figure out the color I am gonna use for my walls. I would like to use a DARK blue, a night sky color. I just think black is gross :frowning:. Will I really surrender a lot of performance by using a color other than grey or black?

 

[RAF]

I really don't think that a dark blue would be a problem at all. Theorectically, black reflects nothing and the type of grey usually recommended also doesn't reflect any color that would normally interfere with your picture's color. However, most dark colors don't reflect any appreciable color either (that's why they're dark) so I wouldn't be concerned about this. I've seen lots of theaters here where colors other than black or grey were used and I haven't heard any complaints.
The only thing I would avoid, if possible, are light colors, but even then it's not necessarily a deal killer if you must have a light color for other reasons.
Given the choice I went with grey because

• It satisfied the "purists" and light theory
• It actually didn't look as bad as I thought it would at first since all my accessories are black and or burgundy and it actually made for a very nice color scheme.

In other words, dark blue sounds good to me.

 

[David Proud]

K kewl. I will go with the kodak grey somewhere between dark grey and black. maybe add some space to the ceiling or something
Now the next issue is the projector. since I am only going to be sitting 93" away from a 80inch widescreen I have decided on getting a Di-la projector for its short throw distances and high resolutions.
If I found a deal on a used di-la g15s for the same price or near same price as a G11 or G1000 is that one too bright for this small room?
I am looking to spend up to 4K on a used dila or b stock dila unit.
Also, noise I undertand these beast are noisy. Would the LT150 hush box work on a dila projector too? Could I silence this puppy?
Thanks,
David

 

[RAF]

Would the LT150 hush box work on a dila projector too? Could I silence this puppy?

I can't answer that one. Hopefully, some one with this configuration will chime in. When I was waiting for the release of the Sony VW10HT (it was delayed several times) one option that was offered to me was a D-ila projector. However, the deal breaker was the noise involved. The Sony is one of the quietest projectors out there. It's right over my head about 4-5 feet away and you wouldn't even know it's there. No hush box or anything. The predecessor, the SONY 400Q was quite noisy and "hush boxes" were required if you had it in the same room. I'm told the D-ila was even louder.
You will definitely need some sort of silencer unless you like to watch movies with a vacuum cleaner on.

 

[Matt Stryker]

David, I left you a PM; I tried to send you an email but Hotmail claimed your mailbox was full.

 

[Scott Holt]

I have auditioned the sony and the Sanyo plv-60ht. I went with the sanyo because of what it offered. It also had a little better picture. If you want a great deal on a projector with a warranty and great service you need to call projector people at 1-888-248-0675 ext.2277 and ask for Todd Reed. I stumbled on to this place by accident and boy am I glad I did. He is very knowlegeable and very nice. He will give you the best deal possible. Just give him a call. You won't be sorry you did. Tell him Scott told you to call. I hope this is going to help you.