Need pictures of subwoofer enclosurs (1 Viewer)

[Erick P]

I need pictures of the insides of subwoofer enclosures. I just want to see how to go about bracing, gluing, and stuff like that

 

[Allen Ross]

all depends on how you want to go about it, Adire prob has the most conservative alignments with bracing, have scene some with a lot a lot more and also have scene more with a lot less.

most all people waver on how big of a box do you want, cause you can't have enough bracing. so just take adires alignment to the next level

btw i am one of those people.

 

[Ryan T]

I think i've heard someware that you dont wanna leave any panel much more that 10" without bracing?? Meaning the most unbraced area you would want is 10" i guess. I've found a few pictures heres the links

Thomas W's Aerial stryke subwoofer (lots of bracing)
Link Removed

There are some shots of the subwoofer bracing on the enclosures pages.
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~aco...rs/enclosures/

There are more out there. You can try searching the forums for DIY subwoofers or something. Adire's plans are pretty well laid out and should give you a really good idea how the bracing goes in etc.


Ryan

 

[Aaron Gilbert]

Here's a method I've used for many years (actually since I got into this hobby). It works well even without additional bracing, though since my latest box was about 9.7 cubic feet and had some rather large flat panels, I went ahead and braced it. What I like is that I only need a couple C-clamps to put the box together, but I expect it's probably a much slower building method than the usual box made with a heap of bar clamps.

http://www.aaroncgilbert.com/emeraldtitan.html

Aaron Gilbert

 

[Erick P]

Thanks for the links guys

The box I'm going to be building is gonna be about 1.6cu ft., so I wouldn't need too much bracing, right?

 

[Darren_T]

You can check out my site for pics of the inside of my 214L Tempest build. I have some good pics of the braces etc...

http://www.thomaswoodcraft.com/Adire...nstruction.asp

A rule I follow is not allowing any more than a 10" span without bracing. It depends on the thickness of material and material type though.

 

[Aaron Gilbert]

Darren,

That subwoofer is truly a work of art. It's a shame all that beautiful interior work goes unseen, but the ouside is even better. Tell me, did you use a CNC machine to cut all the holes in the braces, or was that done by hand with a router? That's a lot of hole cutting! I probably would have used a fly cutter on my drill press, er well probably not in MDF, but ply or particle, sure. You could probably sell that thing for several thousand dollars if it was at a high end retail store.


Aaron Gilbert

 

[Darren_T]

Aaron,

Thanks for the compliments. I cut the holes with an adjustable carbide hole cutter on my drill press. I then routed the cut outs for a nice smooth finish. I put quite a bit of work into that sub and it served me well. I ended up selling it locally for a mere $400, just enough to get some of my money back. Hard to sell a used sub for any money. It was a wonderful sub and I miss it but I moved up.

 

[Aaron Gilbert]

Darren,

Adjustable carbide hole cutter? I like the sound of that. Where does one get such a contraption in these parts?

I agree on selling used DIY speakers, it's hard to do and break even, much less make money. Of course the option is to sell at a loss, or not sell (netting $0) and end up with a house/garage full of speakers you don't use. The best you can hope is that if you do part with your own speakers, they go to a new owner who can really appreciate them.


Aaron Gilbert

 

[Joey Skinner]

This is the circle cutter I use from Sears. You have to use it with a drill press or drill stand. Easy to use and cuts nice holes up to six inches.

 

[Aaron Gilbert]

Joey,

I've got a fly cutter very similar to that, except mine has two blades (one on each side), and I got it at Harbor Freight. It doesn't seem to work nearly as well as the one my Dad has though, which is a single blade. Maybe it's just a low quality cutter, wouldn't surprise me. I thought Darren was speaking of a different kind, but could be just a fly cutter with a carbide blade. Mine only goes to 5" though, which is a major drag when mounting a 6.5" woofer.


Aaron Gilbert

 

[Dave Poehlman]

Dave's cheap and easy bracing for the lazy.... or power tool challenged:



Get a 1.5" spade bit, a long piece of 1.5" dowel, some glue and screws, and kapow!

 

[Bryan Michael]

on my 25cf box i bult a whole lot of 2 in strips of 3/4 mdfb. i glued them every 8 in in both directons. there they meet i put a vertal brace. this makes it very strong and optimised the use of mdfb.

 

[Erick P]

mmmmkay...

is it ok if I just use bracing along the inner edges?

I had a nice design going on in AutoCad, but then it crashed and I lost it

 

[Aaron Gilbert]

Dave,

I like it! Have thought of using dowels in the past, never got around to it though, probably because I'm even too cheap for that. I can't remember how much a 8' length of 1.5" dowel is, but I seem to recall it's quite a bit more than an 8' 2 x 2. Of course the dowel has the advantage in that you can inset it into the panels perfectly with just your spade bit, which should make a much stronger joint than just a butt joint type brace.

Erick,

What do you mean just along the inner edges? Do you mean just around the perimeter of the panels? If so, well that all depends on the thickness, stiffness, and size of the panels. I think the recommendation of keeping the widest open span on any panel 10" or less is a good one, though in some cases it will be overkill. And in fact, when you think about it, that means you can't use larger than a 10" woofer. My box' top, bottom, and sides all have an open span of 15", but it's plenty stiff.

Aaron Gilbert

 

[Erick P]

yea, along the corners, where the MDF boards meet.

The front where the speaker goes will be 1.5" thick since I'm gonna have the speaker recessed.

I suck at descriptions. This would be so much easier with some drawings... grr... stupid autocad.

 

[Aaron Gilbert]

Oops, I forgot you had actually said how large the box was going to be, 1.6 cubic feet. That is relatively small, say no larger than 16" x 16" x 16" internal, allowing some room for the driver/amp/bracing/port. Assuming you are using 2 x 2's for the bracing on all edges, that leaves a maximum open span of only 13", assuming it's a cubical box. Given a 1.5" baffle and 3/4 thick everywhere else, I don't think you'd need any bracing, personally. Now if it's rectangular and some panels are considerably larger, you could think about bracing those.

All that said, I just built a box that's internally 26" x 15" x 11.25". The large panels (which are not the baffle) are 29" x 18" and are 5/16" (!!!!) plywood. I planned to brace it, but thought I would try it without bracing first. I am amazed at how little flex/vibration there is, so much so that I now don't plan to add any bracing at all. All the other sides are 1.5" thick though, made out of 2 x 12 lumber - I don't recommend that, but wanted to try it once just for fun and it came out well enough.


Aaron Gilbert

 

[Erick P]

I want to make it as cubic as possible for aesthetic reasons.

Eh, so I think i'll be fine without any crazy internal bracing