Need Help!!! Baffle cutout problem!!!

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Greg P, Feb 27, 2002.

  1. Greg P

    Greg P Stunt Coordinator

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    I just cut out the baffle for my sealed 1503.

    I have already braced the 4 sides of the box and the internal braces.(Turned out well)

    The cut out for the 1503 is 14 in. The cut looked good, (I was cutting from the back side of the baffle)however, when I looked at the front the jigsaw went at and angle out some how. The screw holes all line up but not with the face of the baffle(The front measurements are around 14.25. What can I do to cure this? I was thinking i could either get schilacking, or make a paste of mdf sawdust and glue and add it to the baffle. I hope I dont have to make a new one. Got any advice?

    Thanks
     
  2. ThomasW

    ThomasW Cinematographer

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    This is why we recommend spending $40 for the Jasper router jig......

    I'd make a new baffle board or laminate a new piece over the old one. The baffle board is the most important piece in the cabinet. You want it strong and free from air leaks. Also it needs to be thick at least 1.5", 2.25" would be better.

    BTW, where did you find the Crest LT-1000 for $469 delivered?

    Thomas
     
  3. Greg P

    Greg P Stunt Coordinator

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    Thomas,

    My whole box is double layered 3/4 in. MDF (1.5 in), the baffle is also 1.5 in. Could I try any of the ideas I came up with?

    I found the crest for that price at a place called Audio East, I can remeber the link name but you can find it if you look it up on yahoo.
     
  4. ThomasW

    ThomasW Cinematographer

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    Greg

    I don't thing you're going to be able to use anything to patch/extend the opening, it's just not going to be structurally sound. You could get a piece of 1/4" tempered masonite and cut a new woofer hole in it then glue it to the existing baffle. Then it might be possible to fill/level out the old cutout from the backside of the baffle with an epoxy/sawdust combo
     
  5. Greg P

    Greg P Stunt Coordinator

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    I guess I'll recut the baffle pieces

    Its just frusturating. I spend over an hour cutting the damn baffle out. Now I even have to cut 2 more pieces and the baffle again. I'll see if I can go buy that router jig. Some one said this is just a piece of plastic, and its $40? I thought it was a special saw. The jig saw Im using is only $30. I know they suck, but Im borrowing all my tools from friends.
     
  6. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Greg,

    You'll need a plunge router and the Jasper Circle Jig. If you plan on making more than 1-2 subs/speakers it's well worth the investment.

    Brian
     
  7. Dave Poehlman

    Dave Poehlman Producer

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    Is there any way you could just use the back side of the baffle... where the cut looked good?
     
  8. Greg P

    Greg P Stunt Coordinator

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    I cant use the side of the baffle thats good because it is made for the inside. The pieces fit in a sandwich lock. The inside piece is 16x16 while the outside piece is 17.5 x 17.5. I will look in to getting the jasper jig.

    Thanks
     
  9. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    Can't you just add another layer of MDF to the front baffle?

    Pete
     
  10. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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  11. Sanaka

    Sanaka Extra

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    If you must salvage the existing baffle then the filled epoxy idea is the only 'patch' material that I think would work, but I don't think doing that would be less hassle than a redo.
    If you have a router you can rig your own compass jig from some scrap masonite and $ave on the jasper.
    For example if your router base is ~6" dia. and you need a 14" hole then the scrap should be ~ 6"x12" Attach your router at one end of this scrap as a replacement base. Drop your bit through to make a hole in the new base. Mark a point 7" (your hole radius) from the outside of the bit - i.e. the router bit is within the hole [​IMG]. Drill through the mark with a smallish drill. Use the same drill to drill the center of the hole on your baffle. Stick the drill bit in the baffle and use it as a pivot pin to swing the router around as you cut.
    If your router doesn't plunge just stop and set the bit deeper after each cut - just don't take too much depth each time and be careful and steady re-entering the bit in the groove.
    All that said the Jasper is well worth it if you're doing lots of different radii.
    GoodLuck!
     
  12. Greg P

    Greg P Stunt Coordinator

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    Hi guys,

    I redid the baffle. I did not get the jasper. What I did was cut the cirles out of each 3/4 in MDF before glueing them together. I have a professional construction compass, so I drew circles on the front and back of each board. This way I could see if the jig was wondering at all on the back side. The second baffle turned out well.

    I have a question about mounting the driver. Should I use t_nuts or those inserts someone saw advertised on yahoo? Could someone give me a run through how I use these?

    Thanks
     

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