This will be my first DIY sub project if I decide to do it (a thread on diy over on AVS from Bob Sorel lead me over to this forum, Thanks Bob). I'm a University student and have access to a table saw, router and any other tool I am likely to need to complete this project at my dad's place (and his jack of all trades experience in using them, as he grew up on a farm). This will be fairly long, but I'm not sure whether I want to do it or not. So I'm just gonna through out everything I'm thinking about and see what feed back this forum can provide me with, hopefully making the decision easier rather than harder. First off I'll put out that I'm in Canada and therefore have access to Paradigm stuff pretty cheap. I currently have a Paradigm PDR10 (payed about $230 USD for it) that is feed everything below 80hz. For it's price I like the way it sounds, and am reasonably pleased with its output. However, with some DVDs and some tracks from Enya or Lenny Kravitz the sub feels strained (and I feel I'm missing something, but for a PDR10, I guess I can't complain). So keep in mind that I'm not looking for that much more than a PDR10 can put out. I just want to beable to produce sound down to 20hz with some authority (but not knock you over from 6 feet away authority). Anyways, before I came across the possibility of building my own sub I was planning on getting a Paradigm PW2200. In the end it would have cost me between $900 and $950 CDN including taxes (aprrox $600 to $630 USD) depending on the deal I got at my local dealer. So that's the budget constraint I'd like to stick to for my DIY project. I want my cake, and I want to come as close as possible to eating it too I would like to make a 50/50 compromise between music and hometheater capability. I don't need 20hz at 120 db, I just want full bass that has some impact to under 20hz. I don't have room for a huge box or sonosub either, the biggest I could live with would be about 2' x 2' x 2'. Although I would like at least the width to be less than that by 4 to 6 inches. I'll also give a quick description of my room. The room forms a rectangle that is just under 17' long and is 12' wide. Listening position and equipment are on opposite sides of the 17' length. From the listening positions perspective there is an opening to the right of the equipment. Not a door, but an opening that makes this an L shaped room. The opening starts flush with the wall the equipment is against. The opening is 9' wide and the area it opens to extends just over 8' before getting to a wall. That wall has a door sized opening that leads into the kitchen. There is also a door sized opening to the immediate right of the listening position (small entry way with a closet). The ceilings are 8'. The whole room is carpeted with thick underlay, there are 3 peices of plush furniture, the walls are sheatrock as is the ceiling, but the ceiling has a stucko finish. I have very limited sub placement options, well really to keep the space liveable and keep the mains in good postion it would have to be starting from the 9' opening along 12' wall, right speaker, sub (would need to be really close to the wall, so if it gets a port or two I'd want them on the front or top), tv, component rack, left speaker. From the little bit of reading I've done so far, I thought it would be easiest to just get the non box stuff from Adire Audio (driver, amp, and port flares if I go with a ported box). I could go for ported or sealed Shiva with a 250 watt plate amp. I could go for the same thing but with a Tempest. I might be able to take a Tempest with the 700 watt amp (but that would mean all cabinet material purchases take me over budget). Are their other drivers and amps I should be looking at? From Bob's suggestion on AVS though I was also thinking about an isobarik design. I could go with 2 Shiva's and a 250 watt amp. Could do 2 Tempests with the 250 watt. Going with the 700 watt for either would take me over budget though. But if the gains would really be worth it, I could probably come up with the money for the more powerful amp. However, I'd like to avoid the clam configuration for an isobarik sub. The second driver sticking out the front of the sub would be too ugly for me to be happy. So that leaves both drivers facing the same way (smaller amount of sealed air, but different coil environments) or the drivers facing opposite directions with the backs of the drivers almost touching (larger amount of sealed air, but same coil environments). Any comments or things I should know about these isobarik configurations? So, what would you guys recommend, and how do you think it would compare to a Paradigm PW2200? Bob seemed to think that an isobarik Shiva with a 250 watt amp would completely destroy a PW2200. Do you think he's right? Do you have an option that would blow away a PW2200? Is anyone here willing to help me through the design and building process (more so the design, once I know what it's supposed to look like, I shouldn't have a problem building it)? Thanks in advance for any help or info you provide.