Need a source to block window light

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Todd_Brown, Aug 20, 2001.

  1. Todd_Brown

    Todd_Brown Second Unit

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    I've got 2 windows to deal with in my theater, and need some type of retractable shade that when down will block all light. Any help is appreciated.
    Todd
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  2. Deane Johnson

    Deane Johnson Supporting Actor

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    Todd:
    We're a HunterDouglas (and all other brands) window covering dealer that specializes in Home Theater problems. We don't sell on the internet, but I'm happy to try to help you with what experiences we've had, then you can go to your local dealer or store and make your purchases. I can even give you an idea of what we would sell it for locally so you know in advance what you might expect to pay.
    What are the window sizes? Is there woodwork around them? Any cloth side hangs at the present time? Do you want them motorized and remote control? If you have it in mind, what's the available budget?
    Deane
     
  3. Todd_Brown

    Todd_Brown Second Unit

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    The openings are 3'6" x 3'. There is no wood around them. As to features, they don't have to be remote or powered, however, I would consider both. I'm not sure on budget, I'm pretty flexible but want the nicest I can get for my theater.
    Todd
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  4. Tom Boucher

    Tom Boucher Second Unit

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    I just did some massive researching & stuff here & over at the AVSForum.com.
    Hunter Douglass Opaque with PowerRise option. You'll pay for it, but they are just flat out awesome. A 34.5"W x 54.5" H window with all the options (power rise, remote & ac adapter) ran about $350.
    But it's an awesome blind. Can't wait to get it installed. The aluminum coating is what I"m really interested in. My window faces west. I hope it'll make a difference in the heat (no shade now, just moved into brand new home)
    Tom
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  5. Deane Johnson

    Deane Johnson Supporting Actor

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    As Tom has pointed out, the HunterDouglas Opaque Eclipse blackout shade represents the best solution. It is available manual, or in the PowerRise model.
    PowerRise is a neat, low cost IR remote control shade with batteries in the headrail. Optional wall cube power is available, as is a remote IR eye. I prefer not using the options when possible as this means wires running to your shade. It's really neat when it's all self contained. The batteries should last about 1 year if you run it down and up once per day.
    A manual shade, 42" wide by 36" high should run about $185 plus tax and any installation.
    A PowerRise in the same size, with one hand sender remote would be about $350, as Tom has pointed out.
    There really aren't any other options that are as effective and as neat a package as this shade. Remember, you'll have light leak around the edges which you will need to deal with with wood baffles to shield it or soft side hangs.
    If you go this route I would encourage you to look up a legitimage full service local dealer who can provide you with guidence and service. The cost is about the same as going to a Home Depot type store to deal with the lastest minimum wage employee who knows less than you do about the shade. And of course, they provide no service if you have a problem in the future. Look in your Yellow Pages under Window Coverings. You should be able to get a quote from them on the phone. If they won't provide that, go onto the next one.
    Hope this helps out some.
    Deane
     
  6. Todd_Brown

    Todd_Brown Second Unit

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    HunterDouglas sounds like the ticket! I appreciate the help. I've got to find a dealer in this area (had problems with the HunterDouglas web-site), and I'll be in business.
    Todd
     
  7. Jeff Savage

    Jeff Savage Second Unit

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    This is the low low buck approach I took becasue it was all I could afford but it works great. Measure your windows and then go get some of the rigid blue foam that they use on the outside of houses. Cut it about 1/2 to small around all the edges. Hot glue some wide soft foam weather stripping on the edges (like what would be used for a in window AC unit). Install some handles (I just used some nice looking rope cord stuff from a fabric supply house). Then either paint black, room color, or cover with fabric using hot glue. The blue foam panel helps to dampen the sound and stop it from being transmitted through your windows. The foam edge allows a tight seal.
    I dunno how fancy you need to get but as I said this was truly low buck and works very well.
     
  8. RonM

    RonM Extra

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    Jeff,
    How does the weatherstripping work? Is it's function to hold the foam in place? Is the foam wide enough that you have a large enough surface to glue the weatherstipping on good? Could you not use some velcro on the face of the window and the back of the blue foam? Either way sounds like a reasonable approach.
     
  9. Jeff Savage

    Jeff Savage Second Unit

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    Ron -
    The blue foam or insulation is approx 1" thick (there are different types but this is what I used). It is nice because it is very rigid and will not flex. Yes the purpose of the weatherstripping is to hold the foam in the window by compression/expansion of the weatherstripping. It also means that you do not have to be as exact on teh cutting of teh blue foam to keep out all the light. Another option would be to cut the blue foam at a slight taper and just press it in. I could not do this because my window sills have a popcorn finish on them. I still need to be somewhat careful inserting and removing them but it works out ok. I acutally looked into the vecro idea but it would not work with my type of window casing. I think it would work fine on some types of windows.
    The weather stripping I used came in a weatherstripping kit for AC window units sold at Home Depot and was 1" X 1" so it all matched up nicely. The weatherstripping will compress against the window frame holding the foam in place. All this stuff is cheap so you can make a couple of samples before making a finished one.
     

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