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Need a gentle push towards the Canon XSi (1 Viewer)

ManW_TheUncool

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Originally Posted by Scott Merryfield

If those 2 Sigma's have good optics (and Sigma is known for good teles), then either choice should be nice for those of us on tighter budgets. I wonder though whether Sigma's IS has improved much in the last couple years. Last I read/heard, the IS on their OS lenses doesn't really come close to Nikon and Canon -- and I think that was before Nikon (and Canon?) made improvements to their IS tech. But having HSM -- their version of Canon USM (or Nikon AF-S) -- can certainly make a real diff. That was part of the reason why I originally went w/ their 70-200 f/2.8 instead of Nikon's older 80-200 f/2.8 for my D70 body.

_Man_
 

Patrick Sun

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My head is spinning but mainly because I got sick on Tuesday from being stuck in a room with a bag of fresh basil and parsly, which made my nose run like Usain Bolt, and then I got that weird tickle in the back of my throat that signals the onset of a cold, followed by chills and sweats. I had no idea I'd have such an allergic reaction to the stuff. I had to wash my clothes because just sniffing it made my nose run and eyes water up.

Plus my office place is super-cold. So I get my XSI yesterday, and barely mustered enough energy to charge up its battery. That's it. Went home, got some food in my system, and took some generic Nyquil and just crashed for about 10 hours (twice as much sleep as I normally get these days). So I have the camera, and hope to play with it some today if I can find some spare time at work or home (though I plan on crashing when I get home today as well). UGHH!!!
 

Patrick Sun

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Thanks.

Is there's much difference between the Hoya or Sigma or B+W UV filters (the multi-coated versions)? Don't won't to spend a mint, but don't want unwanted reflections from the filter either. Thanks.
 

Scott Merryfield

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I am not familiar with Sigma filters, but both Hoya and B+W make high quality filters. However, I am not a big fan of using U/V filters. I always use a lens hood for protection (and help with contrast & lens flare), but only use a U/V filter if I am shooting in harsh conditions. The last time I used a U/V filter was a couple of years ago in the thermal areas of Yellowstone, due to the corrosive gases.
 

Patrick Sun

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I had thought about lens hoods, but for my purposes, I needed less obtrusive attachments on the lenses while affording it some protection from inadvertent brushes with humans and whatever gunk they might have on their persons in close quarters.
 

Scott Merryfield

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In that case, a filter may be your best bet if you want some protection. I have been happy with Hoya multi-coated U/V and circular polarizing filters. I have not tried any B+W filters, but have read nothing but good things about them.

One of the big name filter companies actual owns either Sigma or Tamron (can't remember if it's Hoya or Tiffen). It's possible that Sigma filters are just rebadged Hoya or Tiffen products.
 

ManW_TheUncool

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Originally Posted by Scott Merryfield

In that case, a filter may be your best bet if you want some protection. I have been happy with Hoya multi-coated U/V and circular polarizing filters. I have not tried any B+W filters, but have read nothing but good things about them.
I get the impression that most (highly experienced) folks prefer B+W, if they prefer either at all. But like you, I also don't regularly use filters for protection if I feel a hood offers enough protection.
One of the big name filter companies actual owns either Sigma or Tamron (can't remember if it's Hoya or Tiffen). It's possible that Sigma filters are just rebadged Hoya or Tiffen products.
You're probably thinking of the merger of Tokina w/ Hoya (and Kenko) unless there was another relatively recent merger I missed:

http://www.thkphoto.com/company/ci-02.html

_Man_
 

Patrick Sun

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I can't believe how much money I have spent over this past week on "stuff" for this XSI. Picked up a Lowepro Slingshot 200 bag to hold a couple of extra lenses, battery/grip, filters, extra batteries, SDHC cards. I think I'm pretty much done for now (just hoping all the online orders show up by next Thursday, but I realize it's a 50/50 proposition depending on the various order fullfillment centers. Whew! The only thing I need to save up for is a Speedlite 430EX II flash (got some personal gas mileage bucks coming my way, so that'll ease some of the pain for that purchase). .
 

ManW_TheUncool

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Yeah, Pat. "Stuff" add up quickly when you get more seriously into photography, but I guess that's the way it is w/ most any significant hobby.

That's one more reason why I've decided not to go w/ 24/7 filter protection on my lenses. The cost of high quality filters can add up quickly, especially if you have good glass to protect as they tend to have much larger front elements and thus filter sizes, ie. 77mm-plus in the case of most pro-quality zooms. Also, there are quite a few quality wideangle lenses, eg. particularly the superwides, that cannot take front filters (nor even much of a lens hood) anyway, so in the end, you'll need to learn to be more careful and not simply rely on 24/7 filter protection anyhow.

For instance, I've generally developed a habit of keeping my (right) hand covering/holding the front of the lens hood (particularly for my wideangle lenses) when I'm moving about and not shooting -- that's of course assuming the use of lens cap is not feasible/convenient enough.

_Man_
 

Patrick Sun

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I'm just trying to anticipate the guerilla style photography I'll need to incorporate into next weekend's Dragon*Con festivities, so a big lens hood will just get in the way, but I can see where if you have leisurely spacing between you and the subject, lens hoods are much better.

Anyone think I can go cheap on the external with one these Opteka EF-600 DG flashes?

http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-EF-600-EO-TTL-Digital-Camera/dp/B001GD3Z02/

I'm not going to be doing much studio work, so I might need as much coordination capabilities in the slaving of the flash and use of the ETTL modes.

I need to find a diffuser cap too.
 

Scott Merryfield

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I am not familiar with that flash, but I would agree with Sam. I do not do a lot of flash photography, but I am still glad I bought a Canon 430EX flash instead of a cheaper unit. It's handled all my flash needs, with the exception of our niece's wedding this summer. There I really could have used the Canon 580EX unit at the reception. If I was doing more serious indoor flash shooting, I would be looking to upgrade to that unit.
 

Patrick Sun

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I cheaped out, but at least I didn't blow too much on it, plus it's arrived and I'll be able to put it in its paces this weekend. I did try it out last night, along with the diffuser cap I ordered (I ordered the same sto-fen omni-bounce cap for the 430EX, and it fit fine on the knock-off).

Just for kicks, I took some photos with the XSi on badge pick-up night for Dragon*Con and took photos with just the built-in flash, just to see if I could find a suitable formula/settings for the harsh lightining condition in the hotels, and still get usable photos.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/patcave/sets/72157622109847857/

I also took a set of photos with my point-n-shoot,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/patcave/sets/72157622109466631/

and it's pretty apparent the dSLR photos are much more smoother, creamier, less harsh. But in a pinch, I still need the point-n-shoot to snap off the quickie shot that would have eluded me if I had to carry the XSi in ready position 24/7 (that just ain't happening if I value my right arm). Gotta love the chaos of photo-opportunities of this convention.
 

Scott Merryfield

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Patrick,

If your knock-off flash has the feature, try bouncing the flash off the ceiling when possible. You will get less harsh lighting. In the large room it looks like you were in, though, it may not have been possible to bounce in that instance if the ceiling was too high.
 

ManW_TheUncool

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If ceiling was too high, you can still try pointing your flash up some for a bit less direct/harsh light w/ the use of the omnibounce (or some other trick like a bounce card or similar).

I often resort to that -- and the Nikon SB800 flash also comes w/ a small built-in bounce card that slides in and out from the flash head, if the omnibounce-like "dome" is not used.

Some folks also like the Gary Fong light dome (or whatever it's called now), which is similar to the omnibounce, but bigger and probably more effective, especially when you can't bounce off the ceiling/walls...

_Man_
 

Patrick Sun

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I got my nifty-fifty lens today (Canon 50mm F1.8, though it appears to be a solid lens when you shot it around F3.5 or F4, but I'll be experimenting with the larger aperture sizes just for kicks), so I think I'll be using it on Saturday for the close-range shots of folks in costume. I still used my old Canon A650 for those types of shots tonight because I can anticipate how it will react (though I get my share of blown up shots due to the strong flash.

My flash can be tilted and swivels to good effect, and since I can't really do the ceiling bounce trick, I'm going to rely on my diffuser, and angling the flash about 45 degree to try to cut the edge off the harshness from the flash, but that's Saturday's project.
 

Patrick Sun

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OMG, my right index finger should be bleeding from all the shots I've taken this past weekend at Dragon*Con, and also this weekend at CEDIA. Blasted through around 7,000 shots so far on the XSi, still a lot of experimentation on my part, but that's half the fun.
 

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