My Theater Design, suggestions please

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by DavidHen, Jun 14, 2005.

  1. DavidHen

    DavidHen Auditioning

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    Below is a link that will take you to four files that detail my home theater design. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. In the URL below I could not put in the full link. This forum does not allow links until a person has posted 15 times. If you copy and paste this into the address bar, it will take you right there.

    http://www.homepage.mac.com/henderso...eSharing1.html

    Thanks
    Dave

    NOTE: Hyperlink inserted by Admin
     
  2. Bryce_H

    Bryce_H Stunt Coordinator

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    Some thoughts as I have just finished a 15'6"W X 20'3"D and 7'6"/8'4"H home theater room in our basement.

    I would make your riser deeper if you can - I have a 8'0" deep riser and my four la-z-boy recliner are a nice fit (I recommend 36" of aisle space), but I believe your back chair will not recline, so this might not be as big an issue.

    Consider making your riser go clear across the room. This will enable additional chairs to be put there (for example during a superbowl party) when necessary and will also prevent people from tripping off the edge and twisting an ankle. My HT does not go all the way across but that is because my doorway is in the back wall.

    For sconces I have 1 on each wall (left and right) between the front row of seats and stage, and then one in the center of the back wall.

    I would move some of your can lights back. I have 4 over the seating and 2 over the area between the front row of seats and stage.

    I have four lighting zones - one for the rear 4 cans (over the seats), one for the 2 front cans, one for the sconces, and one for the rope light (which will be under the stage and riser lips, and also maybe running in some ceiling molding)

    Some other things to consider:
    - run 2" or bigger conduit to all your speaker locations from your equipment location to run/swap out wire

    - run an electrical outlet and 2 cat5e and 2 coax to the front of your riser

    - run 2" or bigger conduit to the front of your riser from your equipment rack (for gaming systems or other connections)

    - run a dedicated 20amp circuit to your equipment rack

    - you could gain some depth to the room by putting the center speaker under the screen rather than behind it. Not a huge deal, but other than aesthetics there is little advantage to placing the speaker behind the screen.

    - for a lot of projector you may be at the higher end of their throw range (17') - you might consider moving the projector above the first row

    - I used RSIC-1 on all my walls and the RSIC DX-04X2 for a suspended ceiling in the front half of my room. Seem to be workign well.

    - consider installing an IR repeater system (and running the wore for it now) since your equipment rack is behind you. I have the IR reciever hidden in my fron speaker stand. For the week before I had installed it, it was really annoyting to point the remote over my shoulder

    - read this entire thread

    Good luck and welcome to the adventure.
     
  3. DavidHen

    DavidHen Auditioning

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    Bryce,

    Thanks for all the suggestions, I have a few comments and questions below.

    My room on three sides is bordered by concrete block. The fourth side has a fairly low I-beam so unfortunately I cannot make the room any larger. This has a few ramifications:

    - I would love to make my riser 8 foot deep but if I did that my front row would be a little over 7' from the screen

    - The room is shorter than I would like with an 11 course basement. If you take a look at the sideview of the theater, on the riser the height is a bit over 6'2". I am 6'3" so I did not make the riser go all the way across. I did not want to be ducking everytime I went to the equipment rack.

    - On the three walls that are block I will be using Dow Wallmate instead of studding out away from them. Wallmate is only 1.5" thick and can take sheetrock over it. Using wallmate will save me space in length and width. The down side to wallmate is I cannot run conduit down the walls so any wiring must be done before it goes up. I will have conduit from the rack to the projector and the stage area though.

    I do like your suggestions about lighting. I will them around a bit. On my drawing I have two recessed fixtures close to the screen. When not watching a movie I thought having the screen lit up would be a nice affect.

    Are you satisfied with the number and location of can lights and sconces you have?

    Dave
     
  4. Adam Gregorich

    Owner

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    I don't think it is worth it to run conduit to speaker locations unless they are future locations. I do thing the conduit through your riser is a good idea. If you think you may go to a self amplified speaker some day then run unterminated RCA audio cable as well as speaker wire to your speaker locations, otherwise I think you are fine with running just speaker wire. Dont forget in wall wiring to your sub location.
     
  5. Bryce_H

    Bryce_H Stunt Coordinator

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    I do like my scones and can light number and locations. All of my lights are on dimmers, so once I get the DVD loaded they all go to lowest dim possible. I don't actually turn them off.

    In terms of conduit, you do what you can. I just know in an old HT of mine I bought new speakers which could be bi-wired and had subs in them. I spent 2 weeks ripping up and repairing the walls to get an extra set of wires and a sub line to the front speaker locations. Given your situation I would run 2 sets of wire to each speaker location and a RG6 Quad shielded coax for future (or current) sub locations. You can never pre-wire too much wire.

    Understand about the riser length - shouldn't be an issue if your back coach doesn't recline (mine do so I needed extra space)

    Also understand about the riser width. With a ceiling that low are you going to meet your building codes. You may not care now, but if you ever try and sell your home it may come back and bite you.

    This is from another thread I posted too about all my wiring:

    Here is what I did for my HT. I have 2" conduit running to all the 7 speaker locations. I also have an insane amount of low-watt wiring terminating in my component closet. Here is the breakdown

    - 4 coax in from the main structured wiring panel
    - 4 Cat 5e in from the main structured wiring panel
    - 4 coax out to potential sub locations (L/R main, right wall 1/3 way back, left wall 2/3 way back)
    - 2 coax out to the front screen wall
    - 2 Cat 5e out to the front screen wall
    - 2 4-conductor shielded 22ga wire out to front screen wall for IR and other future control needs (drop down screen)
    - 2 coax out to front of second row riser
    - 2 cat 5e out to front of second row riser
    - 2 4-conductor shielded 22ga wire to front of second row riser
    - 2 4-conductor shielded 22ga wire to main light switch box

    The coax can be used for sub, cable, or sat systems. Cat5e is for networking or control needs. The 22ga shielded is strickly for control needs.

    also don't forget to run some wires to a potential front projector location (electrical and video).
     

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