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Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Darren_T, Oct 12, 2002.
Just thoguht I'd post the crossovers and how I did them. Very easy.
Cool idea!!! IMO - might have been best to turn one of the inductors 90 degrees so the poles don't interfere with each other.
Funny you posted this. I am just about to order a pair myself. Thanks for the pic
By turning one of the inductors 90degrees from th other one you cancel any interference from any leakage of current between the two inductors. when you cross speaker wire or coax perpendicular to power lines the same thing holds true. you cancel any interference between the two wires. Thats how I understand it.Chris?
So, do you think it would be worth it to turn one sideways then? I'd really like to do it right before I put them in the cabinets I'm just wondering if they are even close enough to each other to worry about it or not. I'd rather be safe than sorry though.
Either turn one sideways, or facedown. It is preferable to orient each nearby inductor 90 degrees from the other one.
I think it might be best. Better safe than sorry
Roger that. I'll turn the smaller inductor 90 degrees and I'll be set! Easy to do, might as well just do it. 3 more to build and I'll have my 5 AV1+'s cranking out serious HT. Darren
Just wondering what the dimensions of the av1+ and interior dimensions? I just ordered a pair. I will be using 3/4" MDF. And want to finish them in a venneer. I will also be building them to look like floorstanding speakers.
If built per Danny's specs, the tweeter and woofer portions of the crossovers are oriented in different locations in the cabinets. The cabinet plans call for two shelf braces situated above and below the tweeter. The woofer portion is placed in the rear corner on the bottom of one cabinet and the tweeter portion is placed on the lower brace behind the tweeter. That's how we built my dad's and how I'll be assembling mine next week.
Concerning the A/V-1+ cabinet dimensions, they are 17.5"H x 8"W x 14"D (not 100% sure about the depth). Just subtract 1.5" for 3/4" MDF to get internal dimensions. Also, if you've already ordered a pair, email Danny at [email protected] and ask him to send you the cabinet plans via PDF file.
P.S. My A/V-1+ cabinets are veneered in some awesome figured cherry veneer with a semi-gloss polyurethane for a truly showroom quality finish. I'll have some pics up on my website next week. I'll post here when they're done.
I decided to build them after all. I figured If I do not do it now I'll never do it. I have paradigm reference 40's so it will make a great comparison. Cherry veneer seems nice. My design associate choose that too. She saw some pics of the red cherry veneer you did and told me to "do that colour"
Shawn, I'd love to hear what you think of them compared to the Studio 40's! I seem to get asked how they compare to Paradigms more than any other speaker. A very brief audition of several Paradigm Studio series speakers told me that any of the DIY kits I've buit were far superior. I plan to go back to that particular store with my own software and listen to some Studio 100's in a better room. Concerning the cherry cabinets, the figuring on my cabinets was so nice that I couldn't bring myself to dye them red, no matter how much I wanted to. The level of grain and detail that was present was just too nice to cover up. I think the folks attending the DIY Atlanta event in two weeks are in for a real treat! Brian
Can't wait to see the finish...so I can steal your idea
Darren, the same goes for you!
My only expectation concerning the av1+'s is in the silk dome tweeter taking the edge off vocals a bit.I find a certain edge with the paradigms I can't seem to ignore. Bass isn't a concern with my BP1503 so vocals and HT performance are my main focus.
Shawn, Nothing to steal really. It's just a simple 3 step process wipe on poly. It may be difficult to find this particular product though as it's only available at unfinished furniture stores. The Minwax wipe on stuff doesn't hold a candle to it, that's for sure. One thing of note though; we compared this poly to tung oil and the poly won, hands down! So I assume you expect/want to take the edge off of vocals correct? Have you read Martice's review of the A/V-1+? I'd say vocal reproduction are one of this speaker's strong points. Brian
Shawn, I don't think you'll be disappointed with the silk dome tweeter. My previous speakers were Paradigm and I'd say the tweeters are fairly similar in their sound. The Paradigm Titanium tweeter is not your typical titanium tweeter...it's quite laid back compared to others. I found it was an easy transition to my AV1+'s. Darren
Brian, Where are these specs? I couldn't finda anything telling how to assemble the crossover except for the schematic. Thanks for the info though before it was too late. I'll change my design tomorrow, shouldn't be hard to do. I'll just cut the board in half and I'm done! Darren
Darren, This is just info. that I've gotten from my numerous conversations with Danny. Keep in mind that if you cut the board in half you'll have to run wire from the input cup to both boards. That's the only downside to having the crossovers on separate boards. Brian
My father is a cabinet installer for about 30years now and works for a rather large kitchen making company. I think I can basically get any colour they have. Though I might opt for a different stain/wax/dye or poly I'm not sure yet. I used to work for him and have seen some weird colours. do you know what colour caboki is?(not sure how to spell it) it was actually a green stain. Darren, did you solder the crossover?
Yup, all the connections are soldered on the underside of the board. I used to assemble electronic church organ amplifiers so I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron It's very easy though, a couple simple rules to follow and you can solder pretty much anything. Let me know if you need any pointers.