What's new

Modifying OLD Hsu Subwoofers (1 Viewer)

JohnRice

Bounded In a Nutshell
Premium
Reviewer
HW Reviewer
Senior HTF Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2000
Messages
18,928
Location
A Mile High
Real Name
John
I have a pair of what I think are the original Hsu (actually, Definitive Research at the time) cylinder subwoofers. They are model SW10. I am interested in upgrading the driver, as the one they came with seems rather low grade by current standards. They are roughly 16 years old, passive, with 10" drivers.

I am hoping someone, like Robert, can crunch the numbers (Mac user here) and give some suggestions for new drivers, for a simple DIY project. I am planning on getting 1 or 2 of the 300W Bash plate amps from parts express. I may run them both off one amp, or I may put them in separate systems. These won't be heavily driven systems. Mainly music, but I would like some flexibility.

The outside diameter of the cylinder is 14.5", the internal length is 26" and it has one unflared 23x3.5" port. The design of the cylinder is on the flimsy side. The end caps are just 1/2" MDF, plain and simple, so they are also light.

I have no idea what the original drivers are, but it should be easy to improve on them. They are fairly cheap looking, paper cone drivers. I haven't taken one out to get a full look at it.

Almost forgot, these current drivers start falling apart soon over 100Hz, which isn't going to work for me. I am intending these for mainly music systems with bookshelf speakers and I would like to be able to cross them over no lower than 150Hz.
 

Wayne A. Pflughaupt

Moderator
Premium
Senior HTF Member
Joined
Aug 5, 1999
Messages
6,823
Location
Corpus Christi, TX
Real Name
Wayne
Hey John,

You'll probably have better luck posting your question on the HT Projects Forum. I suggest opening a thread there and pinging a Mod to delete this one.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt
 

JohnRice

Bounded In a Nutshell
Premium
Reviewer
HW Reviewer
Senior HTF Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2000
Messages
18,928
Location
A Mile High
Real Name
John
I was looking for the old DIY section, but I guess it was consolidated in the forum restructuring a while back. I'll just ask a Mod to move this thread.
 

Robert_J

Senior HTF Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2000
Messages
8,350
Location
Mississippi
Real Name
Robert
I can't resist a sub project!!!!

I figured the gross internal volume at 2.3 cubic feet. Subtract a little bit for the port and the working volume is about 2cf. Based on a 3.5" x 23" port, the tuning frequency (Fb) is 22.5 hz.

Can the port be replaced by a flared port? Going with a 3" flared port from PSP will allow you to tune lower. You will need to pull the driver and measure the opening. Most 10" stamped steel frame drivers will have a 9" mounting hole. If you go with a 4 spoke cast frame, the opening needs to be 9.25".

To cross the sub over as high as you want, you need to use a very low inductance driver. The perfect one for you would be the 10" Dayton RS HF. I've seen the tests and read the reviews. These subs play well up to 400hz.

I just modeled this driver in Unibox with 300w, 2cf tuned to 22.5hz. It looks great!!!

If you buy before midnight, shipping is free!!

-Robert
 

JohnRice

Bounded In a Nutshell
Premium
Reviewer
HW Reviewer
Senior HTF Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2000
Messages
18,928
Location
A Mile High
Real Name
John
That's just what I was looking for Robert. As far as the crossover, I doubt I would run them higher than 150Hz, possibly a bit higher. I am anticipating using them with smaller bookshelf speakers, and one pair I have now works great at 150Hz but not so good at 100Hz.

I don't think replacing the port is practical. There is no extra room, particularly if I need an extra 1/4" for the driver, plus the port is just a paper tube glued to the base. I told you these are a flimsy design. Besides, a 22.5 Hz tuning is just fine and it sounds like the computer model came out well.

I'm guessing I can't run 2 in parallel from the Bash amp.
 

Robert_J

Senior HTF Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2000
Messages
8,350
Location
Mississippi
Real Name
Robert
You will have to have a BASH amp per sub since the drivers are 4 ohm models. The only 8 ohm driver that I could recommend would be from Acoustic Elegance. John has been carrying the Lambda Acoustic drivers for a while now but he has really been selling them lately. He's tweaked the soft parts and even Lambda's original owner (Nick) in to help out. The only problem is you get what you pay for. The Lambda 10's are double the price of the Dayton models.

-Robert
 

JohnRice

Bounded In a Nutshell
Premium
Reviewer
HW Reviewer
Senior HTF Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2000
Messages
18,928
Location
A Mile High
Real Name
John
Might as well just get 2 amps. Thanks for the info. It may be a month or two before I actually do something, but I will report back.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Sign up for our newsletter

and receive essential news, curated deals, and much more







You will only receive emails from us. We will never sell or distribute your email address to third party companies at any time.

Latest Articles

Forum statistics

Threads
356,954
Messages
5,127,040
Members
144,214
Latest member
WavyJawn
Recent bookmarks
0
Top