Mits 55411- What's the best way to deal with red push?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by James Herrod, Oct 20, 2002.

  1. James Herrod

    James Herrod Stunt Coordinator

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    I just picked up this set and I think there may be a little over-emphasis on the reds in the picture. Just wondering what the best way would be to attack this. I'll work with the service menu only if someone knows the step-by-step instructions for that. So far, I've got the picture as dialed in as I can using Sound and Vision and I also reduced the red three clicks in the manual color adjustment section. Don't really notice if that helped, though. Thanks. Jim
     
  2. BruceSpielbauer

    BruceSpielbauer Second Unit

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    There are people working on a fix with your model of set.

    In the meantime, here are some thoughts.

    1.) You can always fix the red push on your component inputs by purchasing an inexpensive variable attenuator at Radio Shack, and putting it in the "red" feed anywhere along the component inputs. It gives inexpensive (but very real) relief for your DVDs (if you use component) and your HDTV (if you have this) or any other device using component cables. You can dial the red down _without_ affecting the other two color decoders, so you end up with great looking results.

    2.) If I am correct, and your model does not have the built-in tuner, the only solution which fixes the red push for ALL inputs, permanently, is a peculiar work-around which involves hooking up a PC to the set, using a special cable. It is often called the "I2C fix." It is best left for an ISF calibrator who specifically does this (there are many who do, but also many who do not, so you must ask in advance). It can be done by yourself, but I recommend it only to those who love to tinker, and tweak, and are cautious and careful, and willing to research, knowing this can void the warranty. The research took me a month, before I felt confidant enough to try it. The actual process took me one hour.

    Item number 2, above, is the fix that people are working on right now. A calibrator has just reported that it IS fixable, using the I2C fix, just as it was for last year's non-integrated sets (the integrated ones with a tuner have these controls in the service menus). However, he has not published the procedures yet, he is working on double-checking their accuracy and writing up procedures.

    -Bruce in Chi-Town
     
  3. Robert_J

    Robert_J Lead Actor

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  4. ArnaudP

    ArnaudP Stunt Coordinator

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    Bruce:

    I looked at radio shack and the only attenuator I was able to find was "Inline 75W 6dB Attenuator". Is this what your are talking about?
    Thanks
     
  5. Ron Boster

    Ron Boster Screenwriter

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    Check out www.hometheaterspot.com.
    They have a big Mits following....you find many answers ther and here. Have to tried running a search for your answer?
     
  6. BruceSpielbauer

    BruceSpielbauer Second Unit

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    Okay, here are some part numbers from Radio Shack.

    RF Signal Attenuator - #15-678
    Standard F Adapter - #278-255
    F-to-Phono Adapter - #278-290 or #278-260 for right angle
    1 ft coax cable

    You need the adapters because the attenuator is actually made for standard "F Type" plugs, and you have to find a way to make it work on the RCA connector (or "phono") connector which will be the red feed on your existing component run.

    Some prefer the right angle, especially if you are attaching to the back of a DVD player, for example.

    Some others have split the run into two shorter component cables, and used two "F to phono adapters," at the "break in the middle. Then, of course, you also need 2 RCA Phono couplers, to tie the other color cables (the blue and the green) together.

    I _think_ those are the right model numbers for the adapters, but I am not positive.

    Total cost should be around $12 to $15, as packaged above.

    Buy one of the above "packages" for each component connection you have.

    And, yes, it really does work. You essentially "dial in" the best color. Many do this with an Avia test pattern on the screen, until they end up with 0% red push.

    -Bruce in ChiTown
     
  7. James Herrod

    James Herrod Stunt Coordinator

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    Okay, a couple things. Where this seems to be a problem most is with my S-video satellite feed going to input 1. My component DVD input may have a slight problem, but it's not too bad with the red push, although I think I will go ahead and put the attenuator and the adaptor on my red component cable for my DVD player anyway because it sounds like it can only improve things. So I'm gathering that any type of attenuator wouldn't be an option with composite or S-video because the red signal isn't separated, right? Also, when I reduce the amount of red using the manual color adjustment with the TV set to input 1, those changes show when I access the color adjustment with the TV set to "Component 1", my DVD input. That gets me wondering if the red color adjustment will affect my component signal as well. I don't want to change that. Anyway, that's where I'm at. Thanks again. Jim
     
  8. BruceSpielbauer

    BruceSpielbauer Second Unit

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    I am going to do the best that I can here. Let me say from the outset that I am not familiar with YOUR particular model (it is still so new), except from the information I have read from others.

    >>>Okay, a couple things. Where this seems to be a problem most is with my S-video satellite feed going to input 1. My component DVD input may have a slight problem, but it's not too bad with the red push, although I think I will go ahead and put the attenuator and the adaptor on my red component cable for my DVD player anyway because it sounds like it can only improve things.>> So I'm gathering that any type of attenuator wouldn't be an option with composite or S-video because the red signal isn't separated, right?
     
  9. Keith Mickunas

    Keith Mickunas Cinematographer

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    I've got a 55411 also, and I found that the red color adjustment under the color balance seemed to work well for me. So far as I can tell it works for all inputs however it doesn't affect progressive signals. As a result I prefer to use my interlaced player (Panny RA-60) rather than my progressive player (Malata 996). However I had to take it down significantly more than three clicks. I think it is set at just under a quarter, whereas the default was at halfway up. I haven't used Avia to see how it is though, I just went by what I thought looked ok.

    First I calibrated with VE, then while watching LOTR I thought certain dark things looked awfully fuzzy, so I cut down the red til it looked much smoother. I also cut the yellow down some, although not as much as the red, and that helped flesh tones quite a bit.
     

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