Miscellaneous 61H71 Questions (1 Viewer)

[Henry Colonna]

#1 - I have the instructions for how to enter the lengthy conversion mode (is it 64 or 56 point, something like that.) I've done that and gone into the mode, however, I am not sure what the "goal" is. The instructions assume that I know what to do, and tells me how to do it. Now I know how to do it, but I'm not sure what I really should be doing.
#2 - Do I set my DVD player to 4:3 Letterbox or 16:9 auto? Does it vary with different DVDs?
#3 - Anyone know if the mode for the picture to scroll up and down the screen slowly during "compression" is a hidden setting that can be turned on? We were expecting these TVs to do this but mine doesn't.
#4 - I have AVIA for DVD (colorstream) mode, which is quite a trip unto itself - but what about adjusting the other inputs like Video 1? Do I just copy the settings I get from the AVIA input and then manually adjust from there?
#5 - How do I get the Picture in Picture modes to read other inputs or to work from the two different inputs that I have on my DirectTV TiVo? Right now it's pretty much worthless...I my second picture is static :-]
#6 - Do you guys run your video through your receiver? I bought a Kenwood HTB504 and currently haven't done this. It just seems that this "bus station" would degrade signal quality. Perhaps this is the solution to #5? Probably not...

 

[Jeff D.]

Henry:
1. The goal of convergence, whether it be the 9 or 64 point mode, is to properly converge the three CRTs (red, green and blue) at the same place on all points on the screen. You will see a large grid on the screen when you enter the 64-point mode. The goal here is that all lines - both horizontal and vertical - should be straight and should be white. There should be no colour fringing on the sides (ie. you shouldn't see any red, blue or green but rather only white).
The benefit of the 64-point mode is that you have greater control over the screen area. Also, while you should never adjust green (that is your reference, adjust red and blue onto green only) you can use it to correct geometry errors -ie. straighten any crooked lines.
Here is a tip for convergence in this mode: Don't converge with all the guns on all the time. It is very hard. Instead, first turn the Blue gun off. You should now have a yellow grid. Converge the red onto the green in this mode. After this is complete, turn off green and turn blue back on - and converge blue onto red. This is much easier. You might also need to get close to the screen to see small errors.
2. I believe the TV you are speaking of is the new series of Toshiba 4:3 sets. If this is the case, set the DVD player to 16:9 mode. When you watch an anamorphic DVD you will notice people seem to be stretched vertically (ie. skinny). Invoke the sets vertical compression feature (essentially the squeeze trick) to see the DVD in its proper ratio with the benefit of added anamorphic resolution. Be sure to use compression and not letterbox mode - letterbox mode downconverts the image, as opposed to squeezing it, and there is a loss of resolution.
3. Picture scrolling does not occur in 'compression' mode, but only in 'letterbox' mode. If your viewing is COMPLETELY widescreen viewing, then it might be a good idea to use it once in awhile. But unfortunately you lose resolution in this mode - compression mode is better.
Provided your TV is properly adjusted - particularly Contrast and Brightness - with either Avia or Video Essentials and your viewing is a decent mixture of 4:3 and widescreen material, screen burn-in shouldn't be an issue.
4. You can do that. Or you can run a composite line (or S-Video line) from the DVD player into those inputs and recalibrate that way.
6. The only purpose for video switching on receivers is a slight convenience added benefit. Also, for those who have older TVs with only one input.
You are correct in your assumption - adding anything in the signal chain will degrade performance. The new Toshiba's have plenty of inputs - just go to those directly.
----
Jeff
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"They're coming to get you Barbara..."

 

[CaspianM]

How is this set compared to the Sony HS20/30?
Would any one has any hands on experience on the Toshiba H71 series?
I wouls like to get a 4x3 set and have been looking at the Toshiba and Sony both.
Does the Toshiba puts out gray bars on top & bottom in 16x9 mode?

 

[Bruno]

I have a 53H71, Gray bars in Letterbox mode, NO gray Bars in Compression mode. This is their best (4:3) set so far. Excellent doubler. In compression mode with a Prog DVD player and Anamorphic DVD, this TV is heaven! Wish it had the Auto sensing the Sony has for Anamorphic. Also, this set is built like a tank!

 

[CaspianM]

I have seen this set puts gray bars with HD material!
Or could it be a wrong connection hook up for HD by the store!
I saw the pic softer compared to the Sony. Is this a fact?
Is there a HX71 as well? If so any difference?

 

[JohnnyG]

There are 2 16:9 modes available: Compression and Letterbox. Compression is the mode that squeezes down the vertical height of the image, leaving black bars top and bottom. Letterbox mode 'decimates' the vertical resolution of the image by 25% and shows grey bars top and bottom. So obviously, the set you saw was in Letterbox mode.
The grey bars are there to help prevent image burn-in.
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John Golitsis
Next Big Thing Electronics

 

[Henry Colonna]

The Sony 53HS20 or 30 was on my list for over a year. I almost bought the HS10 until I heard about the new sets with some tweaks.
Then I had a really awful experience with Sony on a computer monitor to be repaired under warranty. They lost it when I sent it to them, though I could tell from the UPS tracking site that they received it. When it went back they shipped it to Circuit City for some reason who proceeded to ship it from store to store. I was given the run around by about 7 people at Sony who were VERY snotty to me and didn't care. The whole experience was the worst I have ever experienced at 36 years old by far. It was ridiculous. And it just wasn't one person. It was constant throughout everyone I spoke with.
There is no way that I will EVER have another Sony product in my house.
Then there is price. The 53HS30 was $2140 as cheapest price. The 61H71 was $2089 - $50 cheaper and 8" larger!
[Edited last by Henry Colonna on November 15, 2001 at 09:03 PM]

 

[Henry Colonna]

Jeff, thanks for taking the time to help me. I still do not quite understand though.
"Instead, first turn the Blue gun off. You should now have a yellow grid. Converge the red onto the green in this mode."
I don't see much green. I have a yellow grid and a red box. I can only hop to every other intersection of lines to adjust. Occasionally there is a spot of green, but you want me to adjust the red box to be targeted over the green, but NOT the yellow grid itself?
"After this is complete, turn off green and turn blue back on - and converge blue onto red." Now I have a red grid and a blue box. When I actually make adjustments, I see the blue box move but there is no line that moves as I see in the first step. It's like the background color is black, and I am adjusting a black line I cannot see (but that's just a guess.)
Also I am not sure how I am adjusting geometry...

 

[CaspianM]

I looked at the Toshiba H71 and it looks good.
It suffers a lot less than Sony in edge enhancement and have a better green and red production compared to Sony's orange tinted red. I am still looking.. stay tune..

 

[Jeff D.]

Also I am not sure how I am adjusting geometry...

I'll explain this a little more, which should also help to understand the workings of turning on and off the various colours.
When adjusting convergence, you need a "template" - something used as a reference. For this reason, one of the three colours must be left unchanged when doing convergence. Otherwise, if you were constantly adjusting all three, you'd never get anywhere. You need a reference.
Green is the standard reference. So, the rule is never touch green (never use the green box). Instead, converge the other two colours onto green. So, converge red onto green. Once that is done, red is just as good as green, so you now leave it alone. The last step is to converge blue onto the red. Then you are done.
So, we've decided that green is the reference. However, what if some of the lines are crooked? Then you can fix them (ie. correct their geometry) by adjusting the green lines. Remember, the green lines are your template. So, if there's an error in the template, you want to correct it. This is the only time you adjust green - the master template. Use the green box to straighten any lines. Straightening lines by eye alone is difficult. I recommend running string lines, with careful measuring, and adjusting to those. Once you get all the green lines right, then its time to continue with the red on green then blue on red convergence method.
The only time you adjust green is to correct the template.
----
Jeff
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"They're coming to get you Barbara..."