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Marantz SR7011=NO HDMI OUTPUT??? (1 Viewer)

Tillerman6

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Just spent the better part of two days trying to troubleshoot my "new" (to me) Marantz SR7011 receiver,

The main problem is that I don't have any video out of the HDMI output ports,*(monitor 1,2,or3 (at least none are showing up on my LG smart TV) which does display my DVD movies without a problem with the same HDMI cable into the same HDMI #2 port. So without this video, the On Screen Setup Assistant video is not available .
The LG TV is model # M 49UJ6300-UA. It's about a year old or less and it works fine with my old Yamaha receiver which can output my DVD player video back to the LG tv just fine.

The #2 HDMI port on the TV is ARC compatible, and the cable is marked "HDMI High speed with Eithernet"

The display on the SR is working fine and responds to the front panel inputs and the remote commands.
I got to speak with customer service at the ABT store, and we set up the parameters manually thru the front panel as a work around to test for sound out using the optical cable from the TV while viewing the DVD output on the TV, but there was no sound coming from the speakers at all.

Things I have tried-
Different input HDMI ports on the TV- selected them on the TV for inputs one at a time- no video
Different HDMI cables- No change
Different CEC on/off settings on the TV- no change
Visual inspection of the visible portions of the PC boards inside the SR- nothing to see here
downloaded the latest updates and installed- no change - internet cat5 cable plugged in.
Ran the latest USB firmware update 8-8-18.zip-said it was installed without a problem
Tested the DC 12 Volt test points on the rear of the unit=-12.00 volts- a little intermittent because of the test probe diameter
Checked the mother board fuses-both good.
No case damage
HDMI cables are all the way in.
Did a "reset"- hold down front panel music and info buttons and turn on the power- got the "initalized" MSG-no change

The only ? mark now that i need to check out is the compatability with the ARC Hdmi port#2 for the CEC specification. - The LG operator's manual notes said that setting the CEC function to "on" is not guaranteed to be compatible with non-LG products that are CEC users.

But this seems to be more of a power control issue. If you turn off the TV, the SR7011 may or may not turn off as well.

Assets- A tectronics Oscilloscope , a digital volt meter, Marantz somewhat useless owner's manual(online)
and a small borescope. Plus a few pages of the owner's manual have been printed out.

Also loaded the Marantz app for the cell phone- Tried to play songs-no audio out.


and the Heos app- no audio out.
The IP address for the Marantz is active and the local Wifi signals do show up on the cell phone setup screen,
The display shows the Main Zone is active on start up
The standby LED is orange indicating that the HDMI inputs are setup.

Now I am wondering if there are audio ports on the rear that can be fed a small signal and get anything out? the

I could really use a detailed schematic and parts layout, but the rep said that although those are on the Marantz web site, they are only for the dealers.
The insides of the unit look to be almost brand new.

Noticed that the fans in the bottom were not running. Unit does warm up just sitting without any outputs being used.

What are the normal resistance readings of the respective speaker jack pairs on a good unit supposed to be?



The display does show that the FM tuner is working- auto scan and found stations- no audio out,
The zone controls work visually on/off- no audio either way for any zone


-
 

Peter Apruzzese

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Did you plug in a pair of headphones to the Marantz and confirm that the audio section, at least, is working? Use the radio as a test.
 

Dave Moritz

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You may very well have a defective HDMI board which you would think would have been caught in the quality control stage before boxing and shipping. Do you have the ability to try another display with it? Or have you tried a source using component in with optical digital or rca digital to see if you get picture and sound? Even if you have to hook up the other display or the one you have to component video. If you hit your set up button the select video then HDMI video output what does it show is selected?
 
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xx Brian xx

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Things to try:
Type the IP address into your web browser and you should be logged into the menu system for the receiver.
Click on VIDEO->HDMI SETUP and make sure HDMI audio out is set to AVR. You can also set Video Output to Auto here.
Go back and click on OUTPUT SETTINGS. Here I leave Video Conversion off but then the on screen display for volume won't show up. I do this so I can get Dolby Vision through to the TV. If you don't have a TV capable of DV, turn on Video Conversion and you can try different resolutions to see if anything plays through.

I doubt any of this will work because it sounds like there is an issue in the receiver, but it's worth trying.

Brian
 

Tillerman6

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Things to try:
Type the IP address into your web browser and you should be logged into the menu system for the receiver.
Click on VIDEO->HDMI SETUP and make sure HDMI audio out is set to AVR. You can also set Video Output to Auto here.
Go back and click on OUTPUT SETTINGS. Here I leave Video Conversion off but then the on screen display for volume won't show up. I do this so I can get Dolby Vision through to the TV. If you don't have a TV capable of DV, turn on Video Conversion and you can try different resolutions to see if anything plays through.

I doubt any of this will work because it sounds like there is an issue in the receiver, but it's worth trying.

Brian
Brian, Those sound like great things to try, but i'm fuzzy on where i can find the ip address?

Are you referring to the ip address for the TV itself? or the receiver? I think I did see the TV's ip address displayed in the setup screens of the TV menus under "about this TV" or something like that. But I don't know how to find the ip address of the receiver.

I know it must have one, because it can receive downloads from Marantz and it has done so while I had it here, but i did not see any ip address for the receiver anywhere.

Then the next question is - What web browser are you talking about? Just using my laptop browser? I'm over my head now for sure, but I will try anything once.
 

JohnRice

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I would do a factory reset. The manual should tell you how.
 

Peter Apruzzese

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Forget the TV for now. If you're getting no sound out of the receiver to either speakers or headphones that indicates an issue of some sort with the receiver. You need to establish once and for all that the receiver's audio amplifier is either working or not. Assuming you have speakers hooked up the the left and right output of the receiver (or headphones to the headphone jack), you should at least be able to hear a radio station. Or if you have a CD player, hook up the analog output of the CD player to one of the analog inputs on the receiver. If you get no sound from speakers or headphones from either of those two sources, the receiver is at fault.
 

xx Brian xx

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OK, sorry I didn't explain better. You can get the IP address from the receiver. Press setup button on front of receiver. Use down arrows until it says *Setup Menu. Network. Press enter and it should change to *Network. Information. Press Enter again and now you should be able to use the arrow buttons and move down to the IP address.

Take the IP address and type it into a web browser, like Internet Explorer or on a Mac- Safari, and it will go to the setup menu for the Marantz. From here you can try what I wrote in the prior post.

Brian
 

JohnRice

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Forget the TV for now. If you're getting no sound out of the receiver to either speakers or headphones that indicates an issue of some sort with the receiver. You need to establish once and for all that the receiver's audio amplifier is either working or not. Assuming you have speakers hooked up the the left and right output of the receiver (or headphones to the headphone jack), you should at least be able to hear a radio station. Or if you have a CD player, hook up the analog output of the CD player to one of the analog inputs on the receiver. If you get no sound from speakers or headphones from either of those two sources, the receiver is at fault.
I'm with Peter on this. When a problem is so severe that you can't accomplish anything, take the simplest and most direct route to something you know is producing sound. That's also why I suggested a factory reset, rather than hunting around, when you have no idea what to look for.
 

Tillerman6

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I'm with Peter on this. When a problem is so severe that you can't accomplish anything, take the simplest and most direct route to something you know is producing sound. That's also why I suggested a factory reset, rather than hunting around, when you have no idea what to look for.
 

Tillerman6

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Testing voltages inside now. There are four wiring harnesses visible on top of the HDMI board( which provide all the HDMI video services). Each wiring harness is made up of several discreet insulated wires. There is only one red wire in each harness, and the harness on the left end of the HDMI board still has 3.3 volts on it to ground, but the two harnesses on the right have no voltage on the red wires at all. So it could be that the HDMi board is not getting power to these two connectors on the HDMI board.

It does not look too awfully difficult to dis assemble the boards from the unit and expose the power supply for inspection. There is no warranty anyway, so If I am lucky, I might find something burnt or even a fuse blown somewhere.

It would REALLY BE NICE to have a schematic for this beast. It would be much easier to figure out what and where to look for the problem.

I was lucky today in my look" under the hood " on this unit the boards are labeled in English with the names of the connector pins and even what voltages to expect on each pin. Except for the two small cables in question. With these disconnected from the HDMI board, the unit still wakes up and responds visually to the two front knobs, and there is still no voltage on either of the red wires so by way of logic, There is a small chance that the red wires in both harnesses are supposed to be carrying a voltage that is needed by the HDMI board. And furthermore, there was nothing on the HDMI that was loading down the voltages. Just checking the loose ends of the plugs, there is still no voltage present. So there is a possibility that the HDMI board is still Ok and it just needs to be supplied with the correct voltages from the power supply. What sort of voltage I am not sure at this point, but I know that a dead wire is not going to be able to power the HDMI board at all, and that is the symptom I am getting.

As far as the size of the problem- Yes it affects most of the unit. But so does the power supply. And that is why I am looking in that direction rather than sending the whole 40 pounds of unit back to the factory and spending money that I don;'t have.


And since I have zero dollars invested in this unit, I may as well try and dismantle at least the HDMI board from the unit and see if I can find anything visually that would cause the loss of power to those two small cables.

If anyone knows of a web site where I might find the SR7011 schematics that I can download, I would be most grateful for the information.
 

Tillerman6

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I would do a factory reset. The manual should tell you how.[/QU

I did a reset as you describe Holding down the two buttons on the front panel and the power button, and the first two times it did show the message "initialized", but that did not clear the problem.Later on that same reset did not do anything that I could tell, as the unit just went straight to it's normal startup screen message and ignored my button pushing completely.

The unit is partially torn down right now, and i did manage to get the main two boards out of the chassis as a unit. Wasn't easy, but easier than the HDMI side would have been.

The only thing I see is a bit of white chalky looking deposit that looked like it had run down on some of the power transistor leads.(The boards sit vertically in the chassis and the Transistor leads are overhanging the bottom edge of the boards. The overall size of the two parallel boards with the brackets between them for spacing is about 11 inches long, 4 inches thick and 5 inches high The solder joints all look pretty good on that main assembly. Tomorrow I will do some transistor testing and try to find any that are shorted or open. There are no burns anywhere on the boards and it might be possible to energize the power supply while it is still out of the chassis if I am lucky.

never noticed it before, but this unit is not grounded to the power cord third prong. In fact there is NO third prong in the chassis receptacle even though the power cord is 3 prong. Strange but true.
 
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Tillerman6

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So today I found a Service manual for my SR7011 and downloaded it.
Looks like the two cables coming up on the right side of the digital /hdmi board are just signal lines from the output stages that have to do with thermal conditions inside the chassis, and they are not carrying "power" to the HDMI circuitry after all, so tomorrow I will try and put everything back together and follow the steps in the Service manual for troubleshooting. Looks like the DC power from the switching power supply is mostly working as it should, but the SM only has you checking the +5 volts, so there are a lot more test points to cover beyond that . I will try and keep you guys updated as new developments ocour. New issue is trying to get access to the parts list to scope out details about each part, and whether it is available,
For instance- IF I did find a bad part, where could i source a new one?
And some of the parts used in this unit have part numbers on them that do not cross to anything on the internet right now.

Fortunately, the SM is highly detailed as far as marking for emitter, base and collector on all the power transistors, so it's fairly easy to test them individually for opens/shorts. And you can also deduce a PNP from an NPN with the ohm meter.

The biggest problem now is information overload. There are SO many parameters to set up on this unit! And even though the SM is highly detailed, it would still be easy to miss something.

When I get this back together tomorrow, i'm going to go for just an analog signal thru put and see if I can trace it thru the circuitry.

Looks like there are about 10 different ways it could be stopped from coming out the speaker terminals, most or all of which are related to setup issues,

Some of you guys may know this answer??? Can all the parameters be set up manually thru the front panel without using the setup assistant? SR7011 model. If that was the case, then it might still be possible to manually set this up for audio only and see what happens.

And I have another question- during the manual setup, when items are showing "carats" around the parameter name, what does that mean? if you hit enter with the carats showing, is that parameter going to be used, or what? <parameter> or if just the parameter letters are showing without the carat(s) what is the significance of that?
 

Tillerman6

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Update- SR7011 from the dump!

So after I got my downloaded Service manual and sorted out the problems with it and the idea that it is a .pdf document and the fact that i did not have a working copy of Adobe reader still on my computer, then the pointers and all the features of AR came back to life. The excel viewer I had to download is also working well now, (for the parts list)

So the next thing to do is to remove the front panel so as to gain access to all the cable connectors that will have to be re-connected in order to re-install the main amp assembly and the transformer.

This seems like going backwards to go forwards, but it is safer than trying to jam the amp board back under the two ribbon cables that lead across the top of the amp assembly.

I was hesitant to go this route because the ribbon cables would be a show stopper if either one got damaged in the process of trying to do the troubleshooting and repairs. Also I am not very confident about where I can get parts unless they are generic in nature.

But after doing some deep dives with the parts catalogs online, and some serious staring at the ribbon cable connectors, I found out that they are just held in by the pin tension of the "wafer" type connectors (surface mount) This type of connector is made in two styles a ZIF for zero insertion force and a LIF for "light insertion force. The ZIF version has a locking clamp to hold on tightly to the ribbon cable. The lif version is just a snug fit, so you can carefully tug on the cable and remove it from the connector without damage.

So tomorrow I should be able to remove the front board/panel assembly as a unit and re-install the main amp and transformer and hook everything back up. Then I can do some diagnostics on the unit with the aid of the service manual test procedures and see what sort of problems are still recorded in the on board memory.

The unit has some storage for the last time the protect mode was activated. it will tell you basically what areas have failed and how many hours are on the unit since new.

I have a hunch that this one has seen a power surge or an over/under voltage input for which the self protection circuits could not protect the unit.

my old TV and the wife's printer got zapped by the power company about 2 months ago. It seems that anything that was connected to the internet by a cable AND was also plugged into the wall outlet got fried. If they were just in the wall, or just on the phone lines (DSL) there was no problem, but if BOTH at the same time then they got zapped!!! some kind of a ground loop situation I guess. Or sun spots??

The Internet and network connections were working fine the last time I had the unit powered up, so there is still some hope that at least those functions will still be working when it sees power again.

Might have to put in an isolation transformer to protect everything before the next one rolls in!
 

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