Lost progressive input on TW40X81!

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Michael_V, Feb 4, 2002.

  1. Michael_V

    Michael_V Second Unit

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    Well, the tweaking continues as described in another post. Re-implemented the Herman-TLV maneuver last night, adjusted electrical focus, then turned the CRTs around (after gentle cleaning with lens paper) to better adjust mechanical focus. Reset gray scale and touched up convergence. Problem is, now whenever my RP-91 is in progressive mode (in either HD input) the TV immediately turns off, leaving me staring at a blank screen and blinking red power light. When I unplug and replug the set and turn it back on, it is in 4x3 mode. I have read elsewhere that this is an automatic reset mode that occurs whenever anything goes wrong in the set. I also read that this may at times be due to CRT arcing, due to dropped phosphors or dust in the tubes, which is entirely possible since I had to move the CRTs to turn them around! My concern is that this only happens when the Panny is in progressive mode, not interlaced. Does this sound right to people? Could something else be at play here?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Michael_V

    Michael_V Second Unit

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    Come on, guys! I need help! Michael_TLV, where are you? Errol? Chuck Williams? ANYONE???
     
  3. Michael TLV

    Michael TLV THX Video Instructor/Calibrator

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    Location:
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    Michael Chen
    Greetings
    What are your cuts and driver settings? What is the brtc setting?
    Don't know why progressive konks out unless you did something in the design menu that only affects the 480P signal type ... no idea what that could be ...
    [​IMG]
    Regards[​IMG]
     
  4. Michael_V

    Michael_V Second Unit

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    Michael TLV,
    Thanks for the reply! If you haven't heard of this problem before, hope really is fading for me!
    I am fairly certain I did not adjust anything but TEST, ETES, BRTC, and the CUTS and DRVS in the designer menu, although fear grows within me that I may have inadvertantly changed something. Any idea where I could find an explanation for the design menu parameters?
    I still favor an electrical problem, though, "arcing" as someone called it over on AVS forum, but have no idea how to verify or rectify this.
    I will send you my CUTs and DRVs later when I get home. I assume you are curious about my implementation of your maneuver? I actually first did it about a year and half ago. May have actually pulled back a tiny bit this time (lines now about 7-8 mm thick) from where it was.
    By the way, I had been setting my gray scale by eye, using a photogray card and 6500 light source, with decent results (as far as I could tell!) but stumbled upon a much easier and seemingly more accurate method the other day:
    Set CONTRAST to 50, BRIGHTNESS to 50.
    Set all DRVs and CUTs to 40H.
    Go to AVIA split pluge (HALF GRAY / BLACK BARS).
    Turn off blue and red guns in design menu (TEST or ETES).
    Adjust GCUT for perfect black level using AVIA pattern.
    Repeat for blue gun (BCUT) and then red gun (GCUT) with other CRTs off.
    Turn all guns on and adjust BRTC for black level.
    To my great surprise, this yielded the most consistently GRAY image across all IREs I have ever seen on this set! I was astounded! And this is coming from someone who has spent countless hours peering at a photogray card, trying to make the BROWN GRAY and PINK GRAY and GREEN GRAY images on my screen actually look GRAY GRAY.
    Now they do.
    I just can't enjoy the grays using my progressive input! [​IMG]
     

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