LG OLED Burn In (1 Viewer)

[Robert Crawford]

Sam Posten in another thread posted this excellent article about OLED Burn-In that some of us might find helpful.

https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnar...icking-time-bomb-inside-your-tv/#3210c43a363d

 

[Tino]

does anyone have a reliable contact at LG

No such thing.

 

[Edwin-S]

No such thing.

 

[Tino]

It never ends.

 

[Bryan^H]

I'm buying a 48" OLED when they come to market later this year. I'm buying a Sony. They have fantastic customer service.
My friend has had a nightmare of an experience with LG, and that soured me on them.

 

[Tino]

My friend has had a nightmare of an experience with LG, and that soured me on them.

I’ll bet my story has your friends beat. LG customer service is the WORST.

 

[Tino]

@Robert_Zohn can anything be done about my burn in above in your opinion?

 

[Robert_Zohn]

Have you tried running the clear panel noise app? Which LG OLED model do you have?

 

[Robert Crawford]

Have you tried running the clear panel noise app? Which LG OLED model do you have?

I believe Tino has the OLED65E6P model.

 

[Tino]

Have you tried running the clear panel noise app? Which LG OLED model do you have?

Yes. A few times. No effect.

Robert is correct about my model.
LG 65 E6P

 

[Bryan^H]

Yes. A few times. No effect.

Robert is correct about my model.
LG 65 E6P

Not to pour salt on the wound, but how bad is it when watching content on it? Is it visible all the time through everything, or just appearing on white/light screen?

I know burn in is bad regardless, I'm just curious how severe it is.

 

[Tino]

Not to pour salt on the wound, but how bad is it when watching content on it? Is it visible all the time through everything, or just appearing on white/light screen?

I know burn in is bad regardless, I'm just curious how severe it is.

It’s visible when anything yellow is on the screen. Which surprisingly is a lot.

Sand. Star Wars Scrawl. Sunny scenes.

 

[Robert_Zohn]

Sorry to say the only fix left is a panel replacement and LG does not have any 3D capable OLED modules left. So if you go ahead with the warranty claim they will make you sign an agreement that you understand and accept the new panel will not support 3D.

 

[Edwin-S]

It is hard to see anything in the pics. I mean it looks like there is a slightly darker yellow band at the top and bottom of the screen where the bars for 2.35:1 content would be, but it is hard to see in the pics. Is it burn-in or could it be panel uniformity? There has been a lot written about LG OLED panels having colour unifomity issues.

 

[Tino]

Sorry to say the only fix left is a panel replacement and LG does not have any 3D capable OLED modules left. So if you go ahead with the warranty claim they will make you sign an agreement that you understand and accept the new panel will not support 3D.

I did all that previously with another issue and gave up dealing with LG customer service due to their ineptitude and dishonesty.

 

[Tino]

It is hard to see anything in the pics. I mean it looks like there is a slightly darker yellow band at the top and bottom of the screen where the bars for 2.35:1 content would be, but it is hard to see in the pics. Is it burn-in or could it be panel uniformity? There has been a lot written about LG OLED panels having colour unifomity issues.

I would lean more towards color uniformity issues. It’s out of warranty so either I replace the set and lose 3D or just live with it. Will probably become the latter.

 

[Carl David]

Sorry about your issue. Truly a bummer. I'll say this, though: if/when you get a new OLED (and I hope you do, they're far and away the best picture), either get the TV professionally calibrated or, at minimum, whatever picture mode you use (consider ISF modes) turn the "OLED" setting down below 50, more in the 40-45 range. TVs come out of the box gunning with light, which exacerbates burn-in issues. What's more, that's not the way the director intended you to see his or her work. As a professional THX calibrator, when I set TVs for dark or light room (total light control vs. ambient light), we shoot for 35fL on the former and 45fL on the latter. Now, despite this being THX recommended, most people think this is too dark. Thus I'll often fudge the numbers to 45-50fL or 55-60 fL. Without proper measurement gear you won't be able to know exactly, but again, if you pull that OLED setting down around what I state above, you'll 1) be closer to what the director intended in terms of light output and 2) protect yourself against future burn-in. Cheers!

Hello.

Can you please explain the 40 - 50fL settings etc?

I am looking to purchase a new OLED TV soon and I am not familiar with/do not understand this term.

Is it a setting on the TV I can change without an additional tool or can only professional calibrators do it?

I obviously want to watch films as the director intended as well as minimizing the chances of burn in on a TV.

 

[JWC1969]

Hello.

Can you please explain the 40 - 50fL settings etc?

I am looking to purchase a new OLED TV soon and I am not familiar with/do not understand this term.

Is it a setting on the TV I can change without an additional tool or can only professional calibrators do it?

I obviously want to watch films as the director intended as well as minimizing the chances of burn in on a TV.

A Foot Lambert (fL) is a measure of luminance in the standard definition range (SDR) world. (More recently, in this brave new HDR world, they've adopted a new luminance measure, candela per square meter (cd/m2) or "nit", one nit = 0.291863508 fL.)

In the calibration world—at least according to THX specs/training—we target about 35fL (120 nits) for a TV to be watched in a light-controlled (dark) environment and 45fL (154fL) in one where they'll be some ambient light (lamps, sun, etc.) Not only does this help with eye fatigue, it ensures that you're seeing a similar light output to that which the professionals who edit/grade/color correct/etc. see in the post-production suite. (Frankly, most people think 35fL/45fL is too dark so I often fudge that to 45fL/55fL.)

Anyway, to make a long story short, you indeed need specialized calibration equipment to accurately adjust luminance.

If a professional calibration isn't in the cards, then one can wing it a bit on one's own.

If you're venturing into the LG OLED world, when choose a picture mode, consider Cinema or Technicolor or ISF dark or light. Those 4 will get you MUCH closer to what a director intended than Vivid or APS or Standard.

Then, once you've chosen a picture mode, consider lowering the OLED Light setting (which raises/lowers the luminance mentioned above) to somewhere between 35-50, the lower you can tolerate the better. (Trust me, all it takes is a couple days to get used to a darker, more accurate picture.)

What's more, make sure you turn off TruMotion (within Picture Options), which is a motion smoothing nightmare that comes on as default in most settings and is public enemy #1 for those who want their picture to reflect the intentions of the director.

If you're venturing into the Sony OLED world, consider these picture modes: Cinema, Cinema Pro, Custom. And to lower the luminance to an acceptable fL/nit level, adjust the Brightness setting from Max to anywhere between 25-40. And, finally, kill the motion smoothing by going into the advance settings "Motion" portion and turning off all that crap (Motionflow, etc.)

Then, enjoy the wonderful OLED picture!

 

[Carl David]

A Foot Lambert (fL) is a measure of luminance in the standard definition range (SDR) world. (More recently, in this brave new HDR world, they've adopted a new luminance measure, candela per square meter (cd/m2) or "nit", one nit = 0.291863508 fL.)

In the calibration world—at least according to THX specs/training—we target about 35fL (120 nits) for a TV to be watched in a light-controlled (dark) environment and 45fL (154fL) in one where they'll be some ambient light (lamps, sun, etc.) Not only does this help with eye fatigue, it ensures that you're seeing a similar light output to that which the professionals who edit/grade/color correct/etc. see in the post-production suite. (Frankly, most people think 35fL/45fL is too dark so I often fudge that to 45fL/55fL.)

Anyway, to make a long story short, you indeed need specialized calibration equipment to accurately adjust luminance.

If a professional calibration isn't in the cards, then one can wing it a bit on one's own.

If you're venturing into the LG OLED world, when choose a picture mode, consider Cinema or Technicolor or ISF dark or light. Those 4 will get you MUCH closer to what a director intended than Vivid or APS or Standard.

Then, once you've chosen a picture mode, consider lowering the OLED Light setting (which raises/lowers the luminance mentioned above) to somewhere between 35-50, the lower you can tolerate the better. (Trust me, all it takes is a couple days to get used to a darker, more accurate picture.)

What's more, make sure you turn off TruMotion (within Picture Options), which is a motion smoothing nightmare that comes on as default in most settings and is public enemy #1 for those who want their picture to reflect the intentions of the director.

If you're venturing into the Sony OLED world, consider these picture modes: Cinema, Cinema Pro, Custom. And to lower the luminance to an acceptable fL/nit level, adjust the Brightness setting from Max to anywhere between 25-40. And, finally, kill the motion smoothing by going into the advance settings "Motion" portion and turning off all that crap (Motionflow, etc.)

Then, enjoy the wonderful OLED picture!

Brilliant! Thanks for your advice!

I am planning on getting the LG OLED65C9 as this seems to be one of the best on the market within my allocated budget of around £1,500.

I will also wait and see for the roll out of 2020 models to check if any quality alternative TV comes onto the market at a decent price too.

 

[buckmichaels]

I have an LG 65" OLED model C7P that I bought in Feb 2018 that has bad screen burn in. I've gone thru the usual remedies, to no avail. I have contacted LG, they told me that they would do a one time free fix. I uploaded all the docs they requested, including screen shots. The tech from LG showed up today, but because I had a delivery receipt instead of the purchase receipt, he refused to do anything, and even told me that LG doesnt have any replacement panels for my tv right now anyway. The LG tech on the phone was fine with the delivery receipt, btw, and we had emailed him a copy. I don't think the tech that came out had any intention of fixing my tv, particularly when they dont have any panels to replace it with. Why he didn't call me to cancel the appointment is beyond me. OLED does have a great picture, but after this, I would never buy another one. 2 years is not long enough for a tv to be having these problems, particularly when I spent $2600 on it. I've had a previous bad experience with a Sony TV as well, (a different factory defect Sony wouldn't fix) so scratch Sony and LG off my list of products I won't purchase again. I have a smaller 55" Panasonic plasma tv from 2012 that still has a great picture. I am just as careful with that tv, and it has no screen burn in. Can anyone recommend a good LED tv from maybe Samsung? Looking for a higher end 65" tv.