...on my Toshi 50HDX82, threw in Monsters Inc for a point of reference and WOW! I'd never noticed the texture to Mr. Waternoose's suit! For those brave enough to try it, I got the info on accessing the service menu at Keohi and followed the how-to's on This site. (these instructions are for the H series, the only difference is CH RTN toggles the blue gun rather than the ENT button) Here's the modified instructions to match the HDX's (modifications in RED): ---- 1) Warm up set at least 30 minutes. 2) To enter Service Mode, Press & release 'mute' on the remote Press & release 'mute' on the remote Press & hold down 'mute' on the remote Behind the flip down door , press & release 'Menu' button. Release 'mute' button. An "S" will appear in upper right screen. Press & release 'Menu' button again. You're now able to see & adjust Service Mode items. 'RCUT' and its value will be in upper left screen. Pressing 'Channel Up/ Down' on Remote scrolls thru the various items. 'Volume 'Up/Down' changes the numeric value of the item. NEVER change any Service Mode values without first writing down the original setting. 3) The main purpose is to get RGB perfectly converged over the 55 - 60 points of the Convergence Grid. Unlike User Convergence, which allows XY adjustment of only Red & Blue relative to a fixed Green, service convergence allows adjustment of all 3 CRTs including the Green. 4) The Green is adjusted by itself, first, with the Red & Blue turned off. To "what reference " is the Green adjusted ? Green is adjusted to fine tune any small remaining bow, distortion, and geometry errors that remain. I set it by eye, although one could set more stringlines across the screen to be certain. 5) After Green is adjusted for minimum geometry errors, Red & Blue are converged to the green. If my set was better focussed (I skipped the mechanical & electrical focus), the Convergence could have been set more precisely. When I do focussing later on, probably Convergence will need touch up. 6) With all Convergence adjustments, start near the center & work outward. There is interaction, you'll have to repeat the 'center & outward' several times, so don't spend too much time on the first iteration. 7) From within Service Mode, press '7' to enter Service Convergence grid. Buttons 100, 0, and CH RTN turn the Red-Green-Blue CRT , on/ off. The color of the flashing box cursor, is the CRT that is being adjusted. Pressing '3' switches the cursor color & CRT. With a flashing cursor, press 2 (up), 8 (down), 4 (left), or 6 (right), to move the flashing cursor around the grid. Pressing '5' changes cursor from flashing to solid, to do an actual adjustment. Now, pressing up/down/left/right actually moves the grid color corresponding to the cursor color. 8) Start with the Green only grid, adjust it for best possible geometry. DON'T TOUCH the Green after this. Next, converge the Red relative to Green (Blue off). Next, the Blue. Blue is hardest to see accurately. Ideally the Blue should also be set to the Green, but I found the lack of contrast too difficult, so I converged Blue to Red (with Green off). 9) Finally, turn on all 3 CRTs. Do final touchups of the Red & Blue convergence relative to Green, but DON'T touch the Green. 10) When finished, press '7' to "freeze" the new Convergence settings. The Grid will momentarily "implode". You will then be prompted to press TOUCH FOCUS on the front of the set. This will calibrate the TOUCH FOCUS to the new convergence settings. However, this may move some of your points out of whack.. so you should go back into the grid and touch it up once the focus is finished, press TOUCH FOCUS again. Repeat this procedure and it should do less "damage" to your settings each time until it leaves your grid in place. You will need to do this procedure for EACH of the viewing modes. By using convergence grid overlays, you achieve near perfect convergence. ---- I wouldn't change anything else in the menu unless you're absolutley sure you know what you're changing and how to change it back. (there are some H series sets that have a chip problem where if you hit VOL while adjusting the V POS, you may lose your component and S-video inputs!!) This whole procedure took me all of about 15 minutes and I was able to eyeball a few geometry problems (had some slight bowing in the upper right corner that was noticible during football when the score was up there).