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Isobaric Driver Mounting in a Sonotube sub? How? (1 Viewer)

J

John Morris

Is there a link or site which pictorially outlines how to isobarically mount a pair of drivers in a ported Sonotube subwoofer. Thanks!
Take Care,
John
 

Julian Data

Second Unit
Joined
Oct 5, 1999
Messages
408
I recall seeing one it's pretty easy to do. The easiest is by doing the "clamshell" method in to drivers are mounted on the same baffle.
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J

John Morris

Thanks Julian. Does that mean that one basket is just hanging out of the end of the subwoofer if you mount that baffle as an endcap. Or, do you mount both drivers on a baffle and then mount that baffle mid-tube in effect creating two chambers? If mounted mid tube, would you then port both halves of the tube?
Thanks for your help!
Take Care,
John
 

Julian Data

Second Unit
Joined
Oct 5, 1999
Messages
408
There are numerous ways to do an ISO.
The easiest:
For a tube: The bottom endcap would contain both drivers affixed to the same mounting location. But one driver's coil is exposed.
The other, you have a baffle at the mid point or somewhere in the tube and mount a driver onto this baffle facing the back side of the other driver at the bottom. - All drivers facing the same plane.
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J

John Morris

Thanks again Julian!
If you mount the drivers both at the bottom of the tube, how much room do you want between the drivers? How thick should the baffle be?
Also, with the connections of one of the speakers sticking out of the sub, how do you wire the two speakers together? Do you just wire the exposed subs connectors to the external speaker terminals(where you would normally connect your speaker cables)?
Finally, if you mount both speakers on the same baffle, I'm guessing that you would mount both speakers using regular nuts and bolts, not T-nuts, and would have to mount the drivers before you install the baffle/end cap. If so, the drivers would essentially by non-removeable without destroying the sub. Correct?
Thanks for your help!
Take Care,
John
 

Julian Data

Second Unit
Joined
Oct 5, 1999
Messages
408
John,
I knew I should've posted all that info about connections and such! :) No problemo.
I have yet to do an ISO but I will do my best to provide you that answers, if not, Senor Wiggins will pop up.
If you mount the drivers both at the bottom of the tube, how much room do you want between the drivers?
This is the easiest way, you basically must mount the drivers face-to-face as there is no distance.
How thick should the baffle be?
From speaking to the "Wise one of Washington State" in the past, minimum thickness for the baffle 3/4" for s sub driver. I would double it because of you have two drivers.
Also, with the connections of one of the speakers sticking out of the sub, how do you wire the two speakers together? Do you just wire the exposed subs connectors to the external speaker terminals(where you would normally connect your speaker cables)?

Here's how I would do it, for the inside driver, I would connect to speaker terminals on the baffle and then connect the outside driver to these termninals also. That's providing if you plan to use one source for power.
Finally, if you mount both speakers on the same baffle, I'm guessing that you would mount both speakers using regular nuts and bolts, not T-nuts, and would have to mount the drivers before you install the baffle/end cap. If so, the drivers would essentially by non-removeable without destroying the sub. Correct?
Thanks for your help!

I would still use T-nut and bolts even though you would have 16 of them. Why? It's easier to install and uninstall the drivers since you would be just installing the baffle with one driver which would be less weight and easier. If you using the Tempest, that's 21lbs plus the weight of the baffle. If you do it with both drivers installed, well you get the picture.
From an appearance standpoint, I would move that baffle up into the tube to hide the exposed driver, which means you might have some long legs.
jd
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Julian Data

Second Unit
Joined
Oct 5, 1999
Messages
408
John,
You do realize that doing an ISO that the two drivers aren't counted as two but as a "unit" thus acting like one driver. Since the efficiency is cut in half but on upside, you have a "smaller" box.
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