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Increase height of floorstanders?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by ChrisAG, Dec 12, 2001.

  1. ChrisAG

    ChrisAG Supporting Actor

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    I have a pair of Mordaunt-Short 906 towers that are about 34" high. One of the speakers is partly obscured by the arm of a couch. With my room layout it is impractical to move the furniture, so I'm wondering if anyone has ideas on what to use to raise the speakers by about 2-3 inches. Does anyone manufacture stone or wood platforms designed for this purpose? BTW, what is the ideal tweeter height (I know it is supposed to be ear level, but is there an ideal measurement)?
     
  2. Gary Thomas

    Gary Thomas Second Unit

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    I've got a similar question. I just got some floorstanders /w spikes, but they're a wee bit wobbley. Between my dog & kids, it's only a matter of time before one goes down.

    Mine are also about 34" high. I'd love to get 4-6" stands that will stabilize them.
     
  3. Kanwar Sandhu

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    Wow, I'm in the same boat! My stands have spikes, but they're not exactly anchored. One good bump, and there goes a surround. My only saving grace is that the right surround is near the wall, and you can't walk between the wall and speaker, so that one is safe. The one on the left is near a support column, so it's relatively safe, but it can still go down.

    Anyway, I need something that I can use to raise my speakers or stands about 10 to 12 centimeters, and keep them stable. Like you guys, I haven't had much luck in finding anything.

    I might just have to attempt building something...
     
  4. ScottHannen

    ScottHannen Extra

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    My living room isn't carpeted, but I'm wondering about the height of some floorstanding speakers. I'm leaning toward JBL N38s. Does anyone know if their design takes into account that they won't be at ear level, or does 31.5" vs 42 not make that big of a difference? I did some searching and couldn't find any stands designed to hold 35lb speakers with a 12x10" base.
     
  5. Brian Crowe

    Brian Crowe Stunt Coordinator

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    Well, if you're really serious about it you can go here and look at some Lovan Jazz stands. They're 6" tall and made for towers. They also cost $230.
    I'd try the wood first if it was me, just make sure it's audiophile grade wood. [​IMG]
    ~Crowe~
     
  6. Thomas_A

    Thomas_A Second Unit

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    The flat stones(too early for exactly what they are called) they sell at the lumber store work well.. they have diffrent colors and sizes/thicknesses--- Many have used these with thier subs and had great results. I'm thinking of using them on my surrounds to bump them up a bit myself....
     
  7. Martice

    Martice Screenwriter

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    OK guys. Here's the low down. Try this site. If you didn't know about this site, you do know. Browse it often, I'm confident that you will find more than what you're looking for. All you have to do is press HERE These are 8" speaker stands just to let you know.
    Good Luck
    Oh and yeah I'm not just a client of wobbly speakers r us, I'm the president.
     
  8. Mike__D

    Mike__D Supporting Actor

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    Scott,
    I own the JBL N38's. They are very close to ear level. My problem is, they are too far below my N-Center sitting on top of my 32" Vega. So, I'm looking to raise them up a bit closer to the N-Center, but not that high.
    For the record, their weight bias is well towards the front. I hear they tip easily on carpet, but you said your room isn't capreted so you'll be fine [​IMG]
    Mike D.
     
  9. Gordon Moore

    Gordon Moore Second Unit

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    Ya know, cinder blocks will get them to the required height, are naturally weighted, and can be painted or covered all for a couple of bucks. If anything the $2-5 dollar investment will determine if raising your speakers will make a real difference (before you shell out big bucks). You'd only be out a couple of bucks but they (cinder blocks) have many other uses so you may want to consider this in the interm.
     
  10. ChrisAG

    ChrisAG Supporting Actor

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    Cinder blocks might be the best choice economically, but what would you use between the blocks and speakers, to protect the speakers and yet keep everything secure? My speakers have plastic feet with metal inserts, to hold the removable steel spikes.

    If I went the wood block route, I'd probably drill small holes in them for the spikes, which would undoubtedly make a secure platform.
     
  11. Jim Golden

    Jim Golden Stunt Coordinator

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    I screwed philips head screws into the floor, and placed the spikes into the head. This is a trick my retailer showed me, and it provides a much more stable connection with the subfloor, than the carpet! **Caution!** Use a hand held screw driver, a drill-based unit can damage the carpet (unfortunately, I know this from personal experience!).
     

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