In-wall speaker wire

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Andre Aguiar, Aug 24, 2002.

  1. Andre Aguiar

    Andre Aguiar Agent

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    Planning on doing my surround runs via the attic. Could anyone recommend any in-wall speaker wires that would not pick up any interferance from any power wires that may be in its path?

    I do plan on using 12awg as it is close to a 30' run.

    Thanks
    Andre
     
  2. Bill Lucas

    Bill Lucas Supporting Actor

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    Andre,

    No parallel runs to power feeds and always cross them at a 90 degree angle. You also can't use the holes that the electrical wires use to fish into the wall. Any speaker wire CAN pick up a hom if you run it parallel to or with electrical wire.

    BTW, 12 gauge is overkill, especially for a short run of 30 feet.
     
  3. Shawn Solar

    Shawn Solar Supporting Actor

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    I agree with Bill. 16guage would suffice. And it will be easier to pull. If you do have to run parallel keep them at least 16inches away. And if you haven't run wires before I suggest really checking out the house to make sure that the attic is the best route. More times then not, when I get into a house I change my mind 2-3 times as to where I want the wires. Any outside wall will have insulation in it. If when you drill through the beam into the wall STOP drilling as you can catch the insulation in the bit and literately get it stuck or break it.

    And of course watch power and plumbing lines. and check to make sure you have a clean path to the attic through the wall.
     
  4. Andre Aguiar

    Andre Aguiar Agent

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    Thanks guys. The area that the wire will be running will also share the Coax and CAT5 I have in there as well. The power from the outlet is in the next section of studs so no problem there. The other wall that I'll be coming down is the issue. That wall doesn't have insulation, its part of the wall that seperates the dining room with the living room.

    So 12 awg is overkill? Hmm, I'll have to compare the 12/14/16awg in person.


    Also, would any speaker wire be a candidate for in-wall use? Aren't there special wires that are to be used when running them in the walls? Shielded?

    Also looking for some white speaker wire so I can wrap it around my wood trimed door and moldings. Anyone have any suggestions? Should that ba 16awg? 14awg?
     
  5. Andre Aguiar

    Andre Aguiar Agent

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    Just took a look at audioadvisor.com and found these:
    http://www.audioadvisor.com/store/pr...-%20Per%20Foot
    14awg 4 conductor (for my 2 surrounds) looks like its what I need. What are your thoughts on this cable? Good enough for my in-wall run?
    Still need to find white speaker cable to go around my moldings and door casing.
     
  6. Shawn Solar

    Shawn Solar Supporting Actor

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    Around the trim and doors you can use a plastic case that sticks to the wall and houses the wire inside of it. It comes in 6ft lengths and a variety of sizes. I think it goes for about 6bucks a length. And is paintable.Electrical stores should carry it.

    the cable is UL approved but it doesn't say if it has and f-rating. When we wire houses we use a f4 rated wire. Meaning that it won't catch fire and act like a fuse where the fire can't travel down the wire.

    Is there a cold air return in the wall that seperates the living and dinning rooms. That would be the easiest way to bring the wires down as there will not be any horizontal stops in the wall. A stud finder and a steel fish will come in handy. Another thing to consider is to terminate the wire at the wall with a wallplate with binding posts vs. having the wire come out the wall.
     
  7. Andre Aguiar

    Andre Aguiar Agent

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    The trim around my doors is not the typical pine moldings found at Home Depot. My house was built in the 30's so the moldings are a bit "decorative" if you know what I mean.

    I do plan on putting a wall plate with speaker terminals (want to atleast make it look perty).

    I do have fishing wire and such. The wall I plan on bringing the wire down shouldn't have any insulation or anything of that type (its not an outside wall).

    Where do you get your wire from? Is this wire good enough or should I get one thats F rated?
     
  8. Shawn Solar

    Shawn Solar Supporting Actor

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    I order my wire from a distributer. Though I order at least 10 boxes of 2pair phone line and about 6 boxes of co-ax at the same time so I doubt you can get it from where I get it.As long as you do not have any stops within the wall it should be a fairly simple task. The wire on the site looks is plenuim rated so it has a very high rating it should do well. Its not a big deal really cause your doing it yourself and it is not new construction.

    Just drill your hole from the attic into the wall and push in a lot of wire. Then cut your hole in the plaster/drywall right underneath where you drilled your hole. loop the end of the fish just slightly larger then the wire thickness and send it up the wall. Now twist rthe snake line around and around moving up and down slowly. You will hear a snap everytime the snake spins that is normal.
     
  9. Andre Aguiar

    Andre Aguiar Agent

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    Thanks. Put that order in for the wire.

    Yah, snaking wire is a bit of a pain, especially with plaster walls (thank god for RotoZip!!!!). Should be a straight thru process.

    Thanks again.
    Andre
     
  10. KelvinMc

    KelvinMc Auditioning

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    Something that I didn't see mentioned above was the use of Class 3 speaker wire. Before I pre-wired my HT room, I researched to find out what wire to use (like your doing). What little info I did find strongly suggested using a class 2 (CL2) or class 3 (CL3) wire. I went with a 16/2 and a 16/4 CL3 wire for my surrounds because CL3 wire is specifically made for "in wall" use. I think a lot of people here have gone with CL2 wire and it turned out fine.

    Good Luck!
     
  11. Shawn Solar

    Shawn Solar Supporting Actor

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    just be careful with plaster walls cause there is usaully 1"x2" strapping behind it which can catch the snake when pulling down.
     
  12. Andre Aguiar

    Andre Aguiar Agent

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    True, it doesn't state if its a CL3 or CL2 wire but it is made for in-wall installation. I'll see how this wire works. If it does the job then it does the job. If not then I'll look around for some better "stuff".

    Yah I know about those lats that let the plaster hold onto. Thats why the RotoZip works the best. Jig saw was just making the wall fall apart.
     
  13. Andre Aguiar

    Andre Aguiar Agent

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    True, it doesn't state if its a CL3 or CL2 wire but it is made for in-wall installation. I'll see how this wire works. If it does the job then it does the job. If not then I'll look around for some better "stuff".

    Yah I know about those lats that let the plaster hold onto. Thats why the RotoZip works the best. Jig saw was just making the wall fall apart.
     
  14. Mike OConnell

    Mike OConnell Second Unit

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    Andre,

    The AR 14/4 works great. I put in over 600 feet of it in my house during a recent remodel.

    Good Luck,
    Mike
     
  15. Bill Lucas

    Bill Lucas Supporting Actor

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    Andre,

    If it isn't rated as "CL" then it is NOT rated for inwall use. *If* you have a fire and there is wire in the walls that shouldn't be there you can have a major problem with your insurance company. Don't be pennywise and pound foolish, get CL rated wire. Regards.
     
  16. Andre Aguiar

    Andre Aguiar Agent

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    This is what I got from their website:
    AR In-Wall Multiroom Speaker Wire is precision-engineered and constructed of high-performance, oxygen-free copper and is CL3 and CMP/FT6 rated and UL/CSA-listed. All provide superior audio signal transfer for premium quality sound.
    Here is their website: http://www.araccessories.com/in-wall/wire.asp
    So I should be all set.
    Thanks everyone,
    Andre
     
  17. Scott Sabin

    Scott Sabin Stunt Coordinator

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    The NEC (US) requires that in-wall wiring used in wiring to amplifiers carrying audio signals be CL-1, CL-2, or CL-3. However, it also requires that the rating be equal to or higher than the rating on the amplifier. CL-3 will work with any amp, CL-2 probably will cover most. Check out your individual amp to be sure. It should have the CL requirement somewhere on the back panel.
     

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