HT Config Feedback/Recommendations

Bils

Auditioning
Joined
Nov 16, 2006
Messages
3
Real Name
Doug Bilsborough
I am trying to configure a HT and perhaps putting way too much thought & effort into it.

I have been impressed with the HT-Forum and would appreciate any thoughts and feedback of what (I think) I am going to assemble.

I have a 1/4 basement of ~600 Sq/Ft and plan to use ~15' x 15' (225 Sq/ft) for the HT. We will be sitting on a sectional couch 12' from the TV. The couch is in a "U" shape and will be against the back wall.

This set up will only be used for video as we have an audio system upstairs already.

Here is what I am considering:
HDTV:Mitsubishi Diamond WD-57832
Receiver: Marantz SR4001
DVD: Denon - 1930CI
Sub: SVS PB10 or M&K VX760 (Haven't decided)
Speakers: I already have (4) M&K S-85s and a C-85 (center).

The HT will be primarily for movies, both with and without the kids (10,8, & 3), and sports.

We will be attaching a DVD player, VHS player until the kids outgrow the tapes, and a Comcast HD Cable Box. No gaming if I can help it for a few years.

Please let me know what you think. If I am way off on something I would greatly appreciate knowing why.

Thanks for your help.
 

Bob McElfresh

Senior HTF Member
Joined
May 22, 1999
Messages
5,182
Hi Bils.

The equipment all sounds good and I am glad to see you re-using existing M&K speakers. They are actually a bit over-qualified for a HT system, but since you have them, use them.

ROOM: Well - do you have a 15x15 room? There is a problem with subwoofers and walls that are even-sized or multiples of each other (like 6x12, 7x14, 8x16, ...).

You get a LOT of subwoofer sound reflected from the walls and a wall of length X will do a better job of reflecting some frequencies more than others. When you have 4 walls reflecting the same frequencies - you get 'standing waves' where one seat has way too loud sound and right next it is too quiet.

There are 2 solutions:

- Make sure the walls are broken up with doors, pillars, etc to create sub-walls that break up the frequency response.

- Purchase a new/used Behringer Feedback Destroyer and use it between your subwoofer and amp. You have to measure the too-loud frequences and program the Behringer to drop them down. Search the Speakers & Subwoofers forum for past postings of how to do this.

TV: I actually LIKE gaming so I bought a DLP television so there is no burn-in. I also tend to like Samsung, Sony and Hitachi because they are sold by more stores (competition reduces price), seem more innovative and Mitsubishi seems more about marketing than technology lately. (This is just my opinion. I wanted to buy a Mitsubishi a few years ago and was disapointed that at the time their units did NOT accept 720p, they had confusing 'levels' in their models that changed year to year, and just seemed a year or three behind the others in terms of features).

Make sure the TV you buy has:

- the ability to jump directly to an input (not src1->src2->antenna->..)
- Seperate brightness/level/color settings for each input
- As many digital inputs as possible

CABLE BOX:

Try and get one of the HD-PVR's. It will change your life. This way you never have to miss a show when you have to stop and help a child/talk to the spouse/etc.

Also: a good universal remote will make a complex system "family friendly". The Harmony-Logitech line is my current favorite. I have a 688 which ran $120 a year ago - cheaper now.

Hope this helps.
 

Bils

Auditioning
Joined
Nov 16, 2006
Messages
3
Real Name
Doug Bilsborough
Bob,

Thanks for your reply.

I double checked the TV and it will both jump to an input (via an on-screen icon) and save settings for each source.

I do have a HD-PVR from Comcast and you're right, it does provide lots of convenience - especially with sports.

For the Sub I did get some feedback from tech support at SVS. I provided SVS more details on the room:
The room is a 1/4 basement. The entire room is ~600Sq Ft (15'x 40' - Although the effective "theater" area is ~ 15' x 15'). The floor covering is Berber carpet on top of a thick pad over concrete. The walls are concrete with paneling. The only opening to the rest of the house is a stairwell on the far end of the seating area. The ceiling is tongue & groove cedar under sub-floor on top of hardwood floors above.



Currently we have a "U" shaped sectional couch in the corner with the TV directly in front of the "U" opening. I could move the couch away from the corner the width of the sub and put the sub in the corner.
DO you think if I put a PB10 in the corner I can avoid the potential problem you pointed out?
If you'll keep the volume levels in the moderately loud to loud range the PB12nsd will be fine here. In the placement you described extension down to 16-18hz with clean output capabilities of 109-115dB can be expected. If you wanted to really crank the volume levels on occasion(similar to the volume found at the local commercial cinema for example), a PB12nsd/2($899) or a PB12plus/2($1199) would be required for this room size.



Tom V.
SVS

I am also checking out the Logitech remotes. Do they work as well as the Logitech marketing claims? I couldn't find an on-line listing of their database of components. I assume the stuff I am looking at is included as no exotics are on my list.

Thanks again for your feedback it helped a lot.
 

Forum Sponsors

Forum statistics

Threads
344,920
Messages
4,724,725
Members
141,358
Latest member
beekeeper