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How would YOU run this setup [newb]? (1 Viewer)

Joey Streight

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I have wire ran for the following: one speaker pair in my kitchen (I ran the wire for an in-series config but that can be changed), one speaker pair in my family room, and two pairs on my back porch (it's long and narrow and had planned on an alternating L,R,L,R config). I have the kitchen and family room wires running to locations for volume controls for each, respectively.

I have all of THOSE wires running to a central location where I'd like to install the audio hardware. What I'd really like to accomplish, at least, is being able to run all three rooms at the same time, on the same source (multiple sources would be neat but more of a novelty, as all three of these areas are pretty close to one another and I don't see many situations where multiple sources would be anything but obnoxious and confusing). I won't need earth shattering volume (or quality, necessarily) in the kitchen. For the family room, I'd like to be able to get it just a little "too loud" and want high quality (although I'm a musician, I am not an audiophile, so I don't need to hear the sound of the dust hitting the mic diaphragm in the recordings to be happy) stereo sound, and on the back porch I want to be able to annoy the hell out of my neighbors (not that I plan on it, but... ) and it still sound pretty good.

All that said- How you would YOU set it up, considering I would love to have as simple of a hardware setup as possible: 8 total speakers, single receiver, single or no power amp (although I realize that might be impossible without powered speakers which I'd prefer to avoid), and 2 volume controls. I'd love your general theory suggestions and would even be open to brand suggestions (especially regarding the volume controls).

Thanks!
 

schan1269

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Good.

Your call how you want to run this. Realize that a "volume knob in the wall" is nothing more than a volume reducer. You still have to turn the amp up...to turn the knob down(I'm not a fan of them, at all).

How much power you need is a matter of choice. Do all these speaker "lines" end up as a pair of wires, or are they all separate?

Your choice if you want an amp equal in channel to the number of pairs. (8 channels...I count).

That gives you the greatest flexibility. however, a 4 pair speaker switch(with impedance matching) works as well. But a 2 channel amp, split to 4 areas "can" cause extra strain(which is why you get the impedance matching switch...to lessen the strain).

Automation of this costs no matter which way you do it. Do you want to walk into the room where the amp/switch is and push buttons...
Or, do you want it all automated via app.

You can pull this off as cheaply as "any
 

Joey Streight

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I put volume controls in for virtually one reason, and one reason only- to turn the sound down/off if needed, without having to go to a central location and switch the speaker pair off. If my wife's phone rings while she's in the kitchen, or if I'm listening on the back porch and she's listening in the kitchen (pardon the gender stereotype) and people are having conversation in the family room, and want to turn the sound to a lower level. I'm not concerned about being able to control the overall levels up and down dynamically all the time. I could just put switches in place instead of the volume controls, I guess. The volume controls just seemed to offer a tiny bit more flexibility.

Each line is 14 ga paired wires. As far as power, is it fair to assume that I will need a power amp aside from a receiver? I would assume I also need to decide on some specific speakers now, so that I'll know what my impedance and power requirements are going to be?

Regarding automation- I've ran everything to a location that is convenient to get to from all three areas. Physically going to press a button certainly won't be the end of the world but I'm aiming for a hardware configuration or, to be more precise, the logistics of my wiring and hardware placement/order that will allow me to simply upgrade receivers down the line if I want to add features. I CERTAINLY don't want to set up my system to accommodate a thrift store receiver and have to turn around and do a major overhaul every time I upgrade hardware. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that I'm totally content spending time and money on this part of it now, and going without the receiver/amp, until I save up the cash to get a unit that will accommodate my goals.
 

schan1269

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Now that "app control" isn't a necessity(central location is good. For all we knew this was the corner of the garage at the opposite end of the house).

It comes down to sources...

Multi-Zone is still(for the most part) stuck in the analog age. If your sources are...Ipod/NAS...etc, you are best served by an AVR capable of running the whole situation...

such as...
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SC-1523-K-9-2-Channel-Network-Receiver/dp/B00DQHZYRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394754594&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+1523

Notice...9 channels. It can run a 5.1 and 2 separate zones. Those zones "could be" ran to what is called a "matrix speaker switch".

Or you could run it as 1 other zone...and split it 4 ways.

And it will do Airplay/net to the zones.(not all multi-zone do...and pretty sure this is the cheapest one that does...with 9 channels. The Denon X3000/4000 offer the same ability...but they aren't 9 channel)
 

schan1269

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Joey Streight said:
So, this is probably a dumb question but- that receiver pushes 135 watts PER channel?
Outside NAD, Anthem(sorta), HK(years ago) and dedicated amps...

Yes...the numbers are fudged...

That rating(been awhile since I looked close) is based on 2 at a time. It even shows a "1 at a time a 1kz" rating that is utterly meaningless.

The AVR only has a total amount of power(and no, Pioneer does not divulge that information). That amount is probably half that, all channels driven...maybe even only 40%.

But...it still packs a punch. There is a guy on here that bought one and is doing exactly this...and his only "beef" is when Zone 2 is up...he has to turn it up further than he expected...but in no way is he calling it underpowered.
 

schan1269

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Oh yeah...his thread...

He was originally only going to spend $800 on an AVR. He caved and bought the 1523(cause at $1000...gee).

Ended up being a good decision as he was going to spend another $200 buying stuff to make his NAS and Ipod work in Zone 2.

To wit...I replied...

"You need to read your owners manual"

He didn't need anything else...but if he had bought the $800 AVR(the Pioneer 1123...or the 1323...forget which)...he would have had to spend the $200.

He was going spend $1000 either way.
 

Joey Streight

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I guess I assumed it was going to be a lot more complicated- When it comes to AVR, I'M stuck in the stone age, to be honest. I just knew that if I tried to run 7 extension cabs to my bass amp, there would be smoke sooner than later lol.

So- about the volume controls: Do you think I should nix them completely, or?
 

schan1269

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If you've already put them in, leave them. There is a 2x6 speaker matrix on Amazon for $150(was yesterday) That has volume pots for all 6 spots(I know only using 4, maybe only 3).But the AVR would have master volume control and then the matrix could fine tune between rooms.I'm just not a fan of them 30ft(wire length) from the amp.
 

schan1269

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Another advantage of a 2x matrix...

If you do want the entire house on the same thing, you could connect the front of the 5.1 to it as well...bypassing zone use totally. Or use it as Zone 2 and Zone 3.
 

Joey Streight

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I actually just added that to my amazon wish list so that I could find it later- I guess using the single controls in the wall downstream of the 2x6 matrix would be redundant?
 

schan1269

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Redundant, yes.

But...added flexibility...

It gives you three volume controls. And if you bought the 1523 and ran it Zone 2 and Zone 3, even if you had both doing the same thing, you have volume control via the (various) apps of the 1523...negating the need for any in-wire volume control. Just turn it down...mute/pause from the app.
 

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