How to you guys get your wire from the attic down the wall?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Michael Cook, Jan 5, 2002.

  1. Michael Cook

    Michael Cook Stunt Coordinator

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    Any tips to make this easy?? I can get into the attick and drill a hole through the top board. Then push the wire down the wall. My only problem is where do I know where to cut the hole in the wall inside the house???
     
  2. Pete Jennings

    Pete Jennings Second Unit

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    I found the hole that they ran power wire through to the closest outlet to my target spot on the wall. Then I carefully measured over from that point. You can also use landmarks (AC vents, adjoining walls, etc.) as a reference to measure from. You could also use a stud finder and a hammer to do it. Have someone hold a hammer up against the ceiling right where you want the wire to be, and take a stud finder up into the attic, pull the insulation back, lay the finder on the ceiling sheetrock and find the hammer.

    Pete
     
  3. Michael Cook

    Michael Cook Stunt Coordinator

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    I think that may be my best bet. To go up into the attick and measure how far from the side outside wall to the actual hole where the wire is going into. Then come inside and use that same measurment and cut a small hole in the sheet rock.
     
  4. Brett DiMichele

    Brett DiMichele Producer

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    I couldn't go through the wall at all.. My initial idea was
    to run up the wall and through the attic and back down the
    other wall to the surrounds.
    When I got up inside the attic I found that the wall where
    my Receiver lives, the entire wall is capped and I was unable
    to get a drill up in the tight space to even drill a hole.
    And then once you drill that hole if you go down through the
    joists and hit a fire break you are S-O-L and then when you
    get to the bottom of the wall you gotta get real lucky to
    snag and pull that wire out of the wall. Unless you don't
    mind putting a huge hole in the wall to reach in and grab the
    wire.
    So this was my solution:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Michael Cook

    Michael Cook Stunt Coordinator

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    I was able to drill a hole in the attack and feed the wire down the wall. I measured from the side wall to where I drilled the hole (115"). I would think that if I measure 115" from the side wall inside the house and cut a hole there, I will be able to pull the wire through. I will keep my fingers crossed on finding the wire now.
     
  6. Thomas_A

    Thomas_A Second Unit

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    use magnets... tie a magnet to the end of the wire and use a magnet at the hole to find it..thats what the guys did who ran my wires...
     
  7. Michael Cook

    Michael Cook Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks, I got lucky and found it. I have a small mirror that is connected to an retractable antenna wire and I was able to stick the mirror in the hole and find the wire. Then I just cut up a coat hanger and pulled it through with the hanger. Good thing my wife isn't home!![​IMG]
     
  8. Mike LS

    Mike LS Supporting Actor

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    That's why they make fishtape. A true must have for all HT enthusiasts.

    Do the measuring thing in the attic, then measure along the wall. I always terminate my wire runs using wall plates, so if I ever want to move the speaker, I can leave the bananna plug plate, or even put a plain plate over the hole. Beats the heck out of patching and refinishing sheetrock.

    Cut a workbox sized hole in the sheetrock next to where the speaker will be and run the fishtape down from the attic, then just pull it through the hole.
     
  9. Michael Cook

    Michael Cook Stunt Coordinator

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    My dad has some fish tape but he is working today. I thought about that Mike, and I decided to use wall plates/bannana plugs too. I only want to do this once. [​IMG]
     
  10. Pete Jennings

    Pete Jennings Second Unit

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    Michael: Great! You are almost home. [​IMG]
    Brett: Where in the world did you get the wire feed-through bushing you used in the ceiling? The ones that Radio Shack sells are too small for 12-gauge and higher cable. I recently replaced my surround wire with AR ProSeries 14/4 cable, and after I terminated it I had to dress-up a larger hole in the wall (the 14/4 is thicker overall than 12-gauge wire.) I was unable to find a large enough bushing to do the job. I ended up simply using white painters' silicon caulk in the hole (looks fine, I took enough effort to blend it smoothly with a wet finger), but would rather have gone your route with the bushings. I do NOT want a wallplate that high up on my back wall. I can permanently patch my holes with little effort when we sell the house the way it is, a wallplate 8' up the wall for me is a no-no!
    TIA
    Pete
     
  11. Michael Cook

    Michael Cook Stunt Coordinator

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    Ok, got everything hooked up. Now I am rattling the windows!! [​IMG] My audio rack won't be here till Tuesday so I only have the receiver and sattelite hooked up. It's just sitting on the floor next to the TV. I couldn't wait any longer to hook it up!
     
  12. Allan Jayne

    Allan Jayne Cinematographer

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    You are supposed to drill down from the attic through the top plate (2x4) of the wall into the cavity between the two studs where the wire will come out into the room. Then you stick a fishtape (or coat hanger wire) down as far as possible. If the wall is load bearing, there may be two joists directly above the wall in which case drill diagonally so you don't have to cut so much wood in order to reach the aforementioned cavity.
    Now go downstairs and cut a small hole near floor level where the junction/outlet box will go. Take a second fish tape and reach up to snag the end of the first fish tape.
    If there is a fire stop (another horizontal 2x4) in between, say at shoulder level, you will need to make a small hole in the wall above, high ehough so you can drill a vertical hole through the fire stop reasonably straight by reaching through this hole (patched later) above. Use the second fish tape to snag the first fish tape coming from the attic, string wires this far, free up the first fish tape and stick it down through the fire stop. Now use the second fish tape through the hole near floor level to snag the first fish tape again and string the wires the rest of the way down.
    Use the two fish tapes together also to get through the sill (?2x4 that holds the studs at the bottom of the wall) and floor if you need to go more than one story down.
    SOmetimes you gotta fish for the end of the first fishtape using the second, hence the name, and it can be frustrating.
    In some cities, building codes require that spackling compound be used to fill and seal the space in every wood member the wires pass through.
    Video hints:
    http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/video.htm
     
  13. Alfonso_M

    Alfonso_M Second Unit

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    Here is another simple way to do it if your wall is not stuffed with insulation.

    Pick up at your local hardware store a 10’ or 12’ long piece of ceiling fan chain, drill the hole in the attic through the 2x4 and drop the chain down the hole , wiggle the chain up and down while somebody else below listens for it though the wall in the calculated area, make the desired cutout as close as possible to the rattle and use a magnet, wire hanger or a fish tape to find and pull your chain through the cutout, tape your cable to the chain and pull through, if you think you’ll need to pull anything else to this area leave behind a pull string for later use.
     
  14. Brett DiMichele

    Brett DiMichele Producer

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    Pete,

    I just used regular old RadioShack RG-6 Cable Feed Thru

    Bushings. The hole diameter is 5/16" and 12AWG should fit

    through that diameter hole. (well ok, 2 pairs of 12AWG won't)

    I am using RadioShack Navaho White 16AWG CL-2 for my Surrounds.
     
  15. Pete Jennings

    Pete Jennings Second Unit

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    Thanks anyway Brett, that's not quite big enough. [​IMG]
    Pete
     

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