Mike Knapp
Supporting Actor
- Joined
- Aug 4, 1997
- Messages
- 644
- Real Name
- Mike
Tweaks, where to begin. How about let’s start with a disclaimer. The following information is stuff I have discovered that worked for me. It may not work for you, hell, it may not even work at all. I may just be imagining it all together. But I believe it works and so I will report on it. Keep in mind that your results may vary greatly.
WIRES So many wires, so little time. Let’s divide them into three catagories.
Speaker Wires: The last link between your gear and your ears. There are a large number of people that believe that 12G OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) is all that is needed in every circumstance. It may be true that it is all that is needed, but it is not all there is. There are many exotic braiding techniques and many different types of wiring materials being used by the manufacturers. There are a multitude of di-lectrics (skins) and there is a plethora of terminators. You MUST experiment with these to find what works well in your system. What sounds great in Bill’s rig may sound terrible in yours. As with any wire purchase make sure you can return or exchange them. I use IXOS gamma weave wires custom made for me by IXOS.
Interconnects: This is an important piece of your system. Many people report hearing not so subtle differences between various interconnects. Again, the construction and materials will make a difference in what you experience here. I prefer a snug fitting gold plated connector. The locking connectors are cumbersome to work with and too large for many of today’s receivers with many inputs. I use Better Cables’ products. I have found them to be of a vastly superior quality and very reasonably priced. I use the Silver Serpent line exclusively. I feel that consistency in the cables, no matter the brand, is crucial. Try to have the same interconnects through any given path. Your system will only sound as good as it’s weakest link.
I have not heard any differences between various optical cables I have tried, but I do prefer the sound from a digital coax to that of the optical connection. There is a large segment of the population that feels “bits is bits”….I simply disagree. I use the coax connection whenever possible.
Power Cords: Every unit in my system that can support an after-market power cord has one on it (even one of my subwoofers). They can make a difference. The folks that argue “the last six feet wont matter” have either never tried an aftermarket power cord or they forget that the pipes in your house will effect how your water tastes….even the last 6 feet of them. Be sure to buy only cords with a liberal return policy. I use VansEvers power cords. The "Pandora" tunable model is my current preference.
POWER CONDITIONERS I use them on all of my equipment. It just makes good sense. The surge protection alone is worth the effort. The more expensive conditioners will enhance your audio/video performance as well. I had to re-calibrate my display and my audio after installing a conditioner on my system. I use lower drive settings which will contribute to the longer life of my picture tubes. Oh, BTW….I use after-market power cords on my conditioners too! Try to avoid the conditioners that route video through the unit. We spend lots of time (at least we should) making sure electrical signal does not interfere with our video…why then run the video right through the box that all our electricity is flowing through? Be sure the company has a return policy. I use VansEvers power conditioners exclusively (3 total).
DACS: Every piece of digital equipment has them. The outboard ones sound better. If you want to hear your music with a clarity and space never before experienced, get an outboard DAC. You will not regret it. I feel the same advantage that you get from having your amps in a separate chassis from your processing unit is carried over to having the DACS in a separate chassis as well. That coupled with the higher quality electronics will create a sound field that will astound you. I use Perpetual Technologies P-3A up-sampling DAC and their P-1A anti-jitter unit in conjunction with the Monolith power supply for both. I couldn’t be happier. There are less expensive alternatives as well.
CD TWEAKS Green pens, freezing, de-magnetizers, vibration reduction discs….none of them have worked for me. The one thing that did work was a piece of Peter Belt’s foil. It didn’t give me an “improvement” each time but it did change the sound. The “Bendini clarifier” worked as well but so subtly that the effort involved in treating the disc was not worth the benefit in my opinion.
SPEAKER TWEAKS Various wooden blocks, rubber discs, isolation feet, blu-tac, felt discs around the tweeter, coins, etc….all of them work for me, they do not always produce desireable results however.. Finding a good combination is a tough task. (this applies to mostly 2 channel listening, the effects on film soundtracks will be largely wasted.). Try using whatever you may have available. Everything resonates…use the resonation to your benefit if possible. Don’t limit the placement of these things to the speakers, place them on your equipment as well.
ROOM COLOR Black is best, grey is next….the darker the better.
LIGHTING Keep the lights off. Make sure the equipment lights are not in your front sound-stage near the image. I used to have mine there until a friend gave me a heads up. Once I moved the equipment I was most pleased with the results. Disable any “dancing lights” on your equipment by covering them with black electrical tape. Be careful not to cover the IR eye.
VIDEO MATTES Make some. Search the home theater sites for information on how, and then make some. Do it!
WIRE BRIDGES They work to a slight degree. If you have the inclination to make some give them a try. For many people they are not practical because of set-up limitations. I cannot use them myself.
ISOLATION DEVICES Sand bags, air bladders, water bags, cones, sorbothane pads,…these work to varying degrees (again for two channel use) and can be made cheaply (except the sorbothane). Bicycle tubes under transports, hot water bottles partially filled with jello under turntables, sand bags atop CD players, all have an effect. Experiment, its cheap.
That’s all I can think of right now. I will add to the list as things come to me. Anyone have a favorite tweak that was omitted? If so, post it so we all may benefit.
Please notice that I have said many times that results may vary and these things may not work for you (or at all) so there is no need to rag on any of these tips. All skeptics please stow your inflammatory comments in advance, thanks!
Mike
WIRES So many wires, so little time. Let’s divide them into three catagories.
Speaker Wires: The last link between your gear and your ears. There are a large number of people that believe that 12G OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) is all that is needed in every circumstance. It may be true that it is all that is needed, but it is not all there is. There are many exotic braiding techniques and many different types of wiring materials being used by the manufacturers. There are a multitude of di-lectrics (skins) and there is a plethora of terminators. You MUST experiment with these to find what works well in your system. What sounds great in Bill’s rig may sound terrible in yours. As with any wire purchase make sure you can return or exchange them. I use IXOS gamma weave wires custom made for me by IXOS.
Interconnects: This is an important piece of your system. Many people report hearing not so subtle differences between various interconnects. Again, the construction and materials will make a difference in what you experience here. I prefer a snug fitting gold plated connector. The locking connectors are cumbersome to work with and too large for many of today’s receivers with many inputs. I use Better Cables’ products. I have found them to be of a vastly superior quality and very reasonably priced. I use the Silver Serpent line exclusively. I feel that consistency in the cables, no matter the brand, is crucial. Try to have the same interconnects through any given path. Your system will only sound as good as it’s weakest link.
I have not heard any differences between various optical cables I have tried, but I do prefer the sound from a digital coax to that of the optical connection. There is a large segment of the population that feels “bits is bits”….I simply disagree. I use the coax connection whenever possible.
Power Cords: Every unit in my system that can support an after-market power cord has one on it (even one of my subwoofers). They can make a difference. The folks that argue “the last six feet wont matter” have either never tried an aftermarket power cord or they forget that the pipes in your house will effect how your water tastes….even the last 6 feet of them. Be sure to buy only cords with a liberal return policy. I use VansEvers power cords. The "Pandora" tunable model is my current preference.
POWER CONDITIONERS I use them on all of my equipment. It just makes good sense. The surge protection alone is worth the effort. The more expensive conditioners will enhance your audio/video performance as well. I had to re-calibrate my display and my audio after installing a conditioner on my system. I use lower drive settings which will contribute to the longer life of my picture tubes. Oh, BTW….I use after-market power cords on my conditioners too! Try to avoid the conditioners that route video through the unit. We spend lots of time (at least we should) making sure electrical signal does not interfere with our video…why then run the video right through the box that all our electricity is flowing through? Be sure the company has a return policy. I use VansEvers power conditioners exclusively (3 total).
DACS: Every piece of digital equipment has them. The outboard ones sound better. If you want to hear your music with a clarity and space never before experienced, get an outboard DAC. You will not regret it. I feel the same advantage that you get from having your amps in a separate chassis from your processing unit is carried over to having the DACS in a separate chassis as well. That coupled with the higher quality electronics will create a sound field that will astound you. I use Perpetual Technologies P-3A up-sampling DAC and their P-1A anti-jitter unit in conjunction with the Monolith power supply for both. I couldn’t be happier. There are less expensive alternatives as well.
CD TWEAKS Green pens, freezing, de-magnetizers, vibration reduction discs….none of them have worked for me. The one thing that did work was a piece of Peter Belt’s foil. It didn’t give me an “improvement” each time but it did change the sound. The “Bendini clarifier” worked as well but so subtly that the effort involved in treating the disc was not worth the benefit in my opinion.
SPEAKER TWEAKS Various wooden blocks, rubber discs, isolation feet, blu-tac, felt discs around the tweeter, coins, etc….all of them work for me, they do not always produce desireable results however.. Finding a good combination is a tough task. (this applies to mostly 2 channel listening, the effects on film soundtracks will be largely wasted.). Try using whatever you may have available. Everything resonates…use the resonation to your benefit if possible. Don’t limit the placement of these things to the speakers, place them on your equipment as well.
ROOM COLOR Black is best, grey is next….the darker the better.
LIGHTING Keep the lights off. Make sure the equipment lights are not in your front sound-stage near the image. I used to have mine there until a friend gave me a heads up. Once I moved the equipment I was most pleased with the results. Disable any “dancing lights” on your equipment by covering them with black electrical tape. Be careful not to cover the IR eye.
VIDEO MATTES Make some. Search the home theater sites for information on how, and then make some. Do it!
WIRE BRIDGES They work to a slight degree. If you have the inclination to make some give them a try. For many people they are not practical because of set-up limitations. I cannot use them myself.
ISOLATION DEVICES Sand bags, air bladders, water bags, cones, sorbothane pads,…these work to varying degrees (again for two channel use) and can be made cheaply (except the sorbothane). Bicycle tubes under transports, hot water bottles partially filled with jello under turntables, sand bags atop CD players, all have an effect. Experiment, its cheap.
That’s all I can think of right now. I will add to the list as things come to me. Anyone have a favorite tweak that was omitted? If so, post it so we all may benefit.
Please notice that I have said many times that results may vary and these things may not work for you (or at all) so there is no need to rag on any of these tips. All skeptics please stow your inflammatory comments in advance, thanks!
Mike
