how to frame a riser?

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Eric Samonte, May 14, 2004.

  1. Eric Samonte

    Eric Samonte Screenwriter

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    I am getting theater seats for the 2nd row which has to be on a riser of at least 6 inches. Does anyone know where I could find "plans" and whatnot for building them, i.e., framing, etc.?
     
  2. Andrew Stoakley

    Andrew Stoakley Stunt Coordinator

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    Hey Eric,

    I built an 8 3/4" riser for my back seating and it was really simple. Just think of your riser as a floor on the ground. Take your measurements and create a square out of your lumber. From there, you're going to place your studs every 16" from centre. Find your centre point, place one stud there, and then place one every 16", both sides, till the end of your wall. Make sure you fill your riser cavities with sound batting or insulation. I used 3/4" construction grade OSB instead of plywood - mostly a cost and warp factor issue.

    Hope that makes sense.

    Cheers,
    Andrew
     
  3. Chip_Slattery

    Chip_Slattery Stunt Coordinator

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    Eric,

    Mine is built pretty much as Andrew stated above. Framing is 2x12s 16"OC with 3 layers(3/4"-1/2"-3/4") of CDX decking, packed with fiberglass insulation. Overall height is 13-1/2".

    I used 30# felt below the framing and between the layers of CDX to hopefully reduce/eliminate any "creaking". I also screwed the entire riser rather than nailing which should keep the "squeaks" down as well.

    If you're interested their are pictures in the "Interior Framing" section of my HT construction gallery which is linked below.
     
  4. John Swarce

    John Swarce Second Unit

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    Chip:

    How did you go about making the step that is shown leading to the riser? Same basic construction as the riser, I imagine, but what did you use for the tread? Is that molding on the front of the tread and the riser? How high is it? I just finished hanging drywall today (mudding and taping is up next! [​IMG] ), but I will be starting on the riser and stage right afterwards.

    Pictures look great, but I do miss the old site, as it was easier to navigate!

    John
     
  5. Chip_Slattery

    Chip_Slattery Stunt Coordinator

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    I moved everything over to the current gallery because it makes it a lot easier for me to upload the pictures. (selfish, I know :b ) I still have the old site (I kind of like it myself!) and will probably revive it once the theater is complete and it will serve as the standing history of the project.
     
  6. Levesque

    Levesque Supporting Actor

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    Here's a link to mine. We just finish it last week.

    http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2355065

    1) 30 pounds roofing-felt.
    2) 2"X8" on the side.
    3) 50 years calking everywhere inside.
    4) Owans-Corning R-35 pink attic insulation fiberglass in 9"7/8 thick sheets tightly stuff in there.
    5) 30pounds roofing-felt again.
    6) Plywood 3/4". Screwed and glued. Then 1/2" plywood screwed and glued, then another 3/4" screwed and glued.


    The steps were done exactly the same way, but with 2"X4".
     
  7. John Swarce

    John Swarce Second Unit

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    Thanks for the info, Chip! Very helpful, as usual!

    John
     
  8. marc

    marc Stunt Coordinator

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    Chip,

    What program did you use for the layout?

    Marc
     
  9. Chip_Slattery

    Chip_Slattery Stunt Coordinator

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    Marc,

    The floorplan and elevation drawing were done in SmartDraw, a Visio-type program.

    The renderings were created with Autodesk Revit.

    I'm happy to answer any questions...
     
  10. Rutgar

    Rutgar Second Unit

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    Wow Chip! Did you use enough wall studs? How far apart is your spacing? Must have cost a fortune. Looks good though.

    - Rutgar
     
  11. Chip_Slattery

    Chip_Slattery Stunt Coordinator

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    The staggered stud walls are built with the 2x4s 16"OC with an 8" offset. Basically what it amounts to is a stud wall 16"OC on the inside of the 2x6 sill plate and another stud wall 16"OC on the outside of the sill plate:

    [​IMG]

    In the grand scheme of things it wasn't a whole lot more money (relatively speaking) and was on par with what it would have cost had I gone with 2x6 construction throughout.
     

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