I recently was given two pairs of speaker enclosures that come from a prototype line of speakers that a high end manufacturer produces. I have two bookshelf enclosures, and two tower enclosures. I have the parts express main catalog, and looking through it, it does not seem like such an easy thing to do, to find the right drivers to fill these enclosures. They are nicely made, and finished except for the hardware. I have read some, and have now come to the understanding that you make the enclosure around the speaker, and not the other way around. So.. How do I take advantage of my friends generosity? Is this a hellish nightmare waiting to happen? Or rather, more trouble than its worth? If there is anything you guys can do to help me, I would greatly appreciate it. Can I get you guys measurements on everything I have and you guys can give me suggestions maybe?
Juan, assuming you can take care of the crossover, it's not a very difficult problem to solve. First, determine the internal volume of your enclosures. Also, measure the driver holes to find out the approximate size needed for the woofers and tweeters. If the enclosures were intended for flush mounted drivers, then you need to pay attention to both "A" and "B" measurements of Parts Express listings. Otherwise, only the "B" measurement is important. Next, go to the Parts Express website and select the proper driver size category. Find all of the drivers that will fit and model them using a program (like the free WinISD or various spreadsheets available) to determine which ones work well for the volumes of your enclosures. Then, just choose woofers and tweeters that complement each other, and when you do the crossover you can iron out any problems. So you know, these are just the general steps that you can work with. If you had provided more information I could've gone into further detail. I think you'll find that most people will be against building a speaker backwards, but I wanted to let you know that it can be done with some effort. Anyways, good luck! Vinh
So the "A" measurement is the "outside" diameter where the recess begins, and the "B" measurement is the inside, or hole diameter. Now their catalog makes sense. I understand the reverse nature of my actions, but still, these are some sweet cabinets. IMO at least. Now here is another question about the xover. The cabinets have room for a 6 1/2" woofer and a 3" round tweeter of some sort. I will be running them as small through my reciever as I want my sub to take care of the bass. I have other speakers set up for music. Will I need a two way xover that have high and low pass, or one that does not have low pass and allows the woofer to run its full range? Thanks for your help Vinh. Much appreciated.
Juan: you need a two-way crossover with high-pass and low-pass. high-pass is for the tweeter and low-pass for the woof. if you don't have low pass, your woof will try to make high frequencies, and will sound like shite. For this backwards approach, you need to build your own crossovers, with or without software. I am guessing you aren't comfortable with the math involved with crossovers? Let the receiver take care of preventing the new speakers from producing the subwoofer frequencies.
Thanks Peter. Now i fully understand the basics and what I have gotten myself into. I appreciate a challenge tho, so this will not be too bad. I am confortable doing the math if it will result in a better sound. I just had no clue where to gather information on the equations necessary to come up with the right answer. Now I have an understanding and a better idea of what to look for on the net. I will do my best to come up with the right x over schematic, but may need help. Thanks again
