How hard would it be to mimic the SVS enclosure design?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Max Malloy, Aug 4, 2002.

  1. Max Malloy

    Max Malloy Stunt Coordinator

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    Well i'm thinking of building my own sonotube sub, and was looking around some sites. Maybe i haven't looked hard enough, but i have yet to see a sub that looks really good. So i was wondering, how hard would it be to build an enclosure that's near-identical to what SVS uses? Those look pretty damn good, but i have no idea what they use, as the pictures on their site aren't exactly high-res. What do you guys think, can it be done?
     
  2. Adam Bluhm

    Adam Bluhm Supporting Actor

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    Check this link and continue to click the 'continue to next DIY page' (or something like that). He does quite a beautiful job creating his sonosub.
     
  3. Max Malloy

    Max Malloy Stunt Coordinator

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    The actual link would help... [​IMG]
     
  4. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Coping the SVS enclosure design is very easy. Well except for the top grille. You won't be able to make the top grille cover the entire tube. But you could do something like this for the grille.
    http://imagehosting.auctiondiner.com...?imgID=1335837
    Then you can click on my sig and go to the Twins project for the base plate. Except next time around I'd put a threaded insert in the bottom of each leg and just use a bolt to hold the base plate on. You also won't want to use the 2" spacing SVS does. For a Shiva or Dayton DVC12", at least 3" and I used 4".
    To make it look the rest of the way like an SVS you'll just have to find the right fabric and spend the time and do the reading on techniques to get the paint job right (the twins were built in 2 days so the paint job isn't that great).
    Matching the dimensions will also be difficult. The 16-46 sized enclosure will work well with the best 12" DIY drivers available. But you'll probably want to go to 18" tube if you want to make the enclosure shorter than that.
     
  5. Adam Bluhm

    Adam Bluhm Supporting Actor

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  6. Rich Kraus

    Rich Kraus Stunt Coordinator

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    talk about coming full circle! [​IMG] SVS are copies of DIY sono subs, not the other way arround. [​IMG]
    brians silo(s) (link in previous post) are perfect looking subs (if you like a sub enclosure in the room at all, that is [​IMG] ) if you have the time and tallent, you can more than match an SVS, you can best them several fold, cosmetically and performance wise.
     
  7. Alexis

    Alexis Stunt Coordinator

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    the SVS enclosures are better than a sonotube because they laminate it to make it stiffer and reduce ringing.

    You could try to do the same by wrapping the tube with dynamat or the equivalent.
     
  8. Greg Monfort

    Greg Monfort Supporting Actor

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  9. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Adam, not anywhere near as nice as BrianS though [​IMG]
    Good point Rich, that is kinda funny.
    Alexis, "ringing", mine certainly doens't ring, and I haven't seen any sonotube sub builder report any ringing or resonance issues with their subs. And several dual Tempest subs have been built from sonotube and no one has managed to blow them appart (not even James W Johnson [​IMG]) so I'm sure they are plenty strong enough.
     
  10. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Because of email conversations with Dr. Hyre at Adire (unless I miss understood him). I never actually did follow the math, but he recommended no less than 3" for a shiva and no less than 3.5" for a tempest. Saying more definately wouldn't hurt anything (there reference designs recommend 3.5 and 4 inches).
     
  11. Ryan Schnacke

    Ryan Schnacke Supporting Actor

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  12. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Ryan, for a smaller enclosure, same tuning, the port length will need to be longer (by how much is a function of how much smaller the enclosure is to the original size in question). One inch either way won't affect much in terms of performance.
    At least my guess at the internal volume of a 25-31 was close to someone else's guesstimate as well. [​IMG] Also, IIRC, there's some stuffing inside SVS subs, so that would yield an apparent volume slightly larger than if the stuffing was not present.
     
  13. Ryan Schnacke

    Ryan Schnacke Supporting Actor

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    Yeah, I knew I neglected the apparent volume increase from the stuffing. But it didn't look like there was much there and I also neglected to subtract out the PC's amplifier volume so they cancel each other out ... to some degree.

    If I do this I'll probably just build it about the size of the '31 and start with a full 18" dual flared port and only trim it down if/as necessary.

    I wonder if SVS increased the leg height with the new improved driver. If the ISD (and the CS+ driver!) can live with 2 inches of clearance I don't see why the DVC or Shiva would need more. I imagine its the cases where you're porting out the bottom that really need extra clearance. You don't want to make the port "seem" longer than it really is.
     
  14. Alexis

    Alexis Stunt Coordinator

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    My diy sub is sealed and does "ring" a bit if you listen right next to it. It is subtle, but probably like tinsel lead snap. I have a svs driver in a 3cu ft enclosure. The sealed design I think causes more "ringing" It is really only audible when you have the sub playing much louder than anything else, otherwise the other sound would mask it.

    Anyways, I think that if you feel the tube vibrating you are losing some energy. I think the tube ringing frequency is more a function of the length of the sub too. Mine is fairly narrow and tall. 12" x 48", kinda like the HSU TN series. I also used the quickrete tube which some say is thinner than other sonotubes, but I had no comparison.

    I know it can be fixed by spraying the inside with truck bed liner or something or wrapping it. I think that wrapping it with cloth would dampen the vibration.

    Someone else posted that they had some "ringing" sound from their sonotube sub that went away when they sat on the sub. Ringing might not be the best word for this, but I think the enclosure does vibrate a bit and this vibration can be audible.

    I will add like others have, that air leaks are very bad. On another sub I made, I had an air leak around the binding post which was audible.
     
  15. Ryan Schnacke

    Ryan Schnacke Supporting Actor

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    How did you fit the 12 inch SVS driver into a 12 inch quickcrete tube? Seems like the driver mounting screws would be about the same diameter as the tube. But those 12 inch tubes are so inexpensive that it'd be nice to figure a way to use them.
     
  16. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Laminate 2 3/4" MDF panels, make the 1.5" thick endcap a 14" wide circle, routed a 1/4" wide circular channel/groove 3/4" deep (have to get the right circumference for the Quickrete tube) for the Quikrete tube to sit in. Then route an 11" wide centered hole for the driver. Drive in some small nails from the driver hole's MDF edge through the Quikrete tube, and apply caulk in the edges to seal it. Pop in some holes/t-nuts/threaded inserts for the driver hole screws, and you're good to go.
     
  17. Ryan Schnacke

    Ryan Schnacke Supporting Actor

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    Thanks Patrick. Have you done this before? I guess what you're saying is that the diameter of the driver holes is larger than the diameter of the quickcrete tube. So the driver mounting screws end up outside the tube diameter rather than inside. I was worried that they would be the same diameter and the top of the tube would prevent placement of t-nuts/threaded inserts.
     
  18. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    You will have a small "ring" between the driver cutout and the outer mounting flange, roughly 1/2" wide, so that's the margin for the mounting holes.
    The diameter of the Quikrete tube should be LARGER than the driver hole. This is what makes it possible to mount it in a 12" Quikrete tube.
    But, no, I have no done this, but as I've envision it, and laid it out, it should work if you are careful. [​IMG]
     
  19. Ryan Schnacke

    Ryan Schnacke Supporting Actor

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    Sorry, meant to say "the diameter of the driver mounting screw holes is larger than the diameter of the quickcrete tube". I knew that the driver cutout itself had to be smaller. :b
     

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