How does this car audio driver look for a sonosub? (1 Viewer)

[Nick_Shah]

Here's the story:
I'm interested in building a ported sonosub. I've fiddled with WinISD (although not in the last few months) and the ported.xls spreadsheet from www.diysubwoofers.org, and of course, reading through many posts right here.
I'm considering the Dayton 12" DVC driver (not Titanic) and the Parts Express #300-792 156 Watt Amp.
The JL Audio 12W0 driver is available in my area (Toronto) for about CDN$125.
The parameters are as follows:
Impedance: 4 ohms
Fs: 22.10 Hz
Qts: 0.429
Qes: 0.451
Qms: 8.974
Vas: 160.01 L (5.65 ft^3)
Xmax: 8.636 mm (0.340 in)
Pt: 125 W
Alternatively, I could spend about CDN$200 for the Dayton driver, or CDN$250 for a Shiva.
Using the JL Audio driver, I've generated some frequency response plots from the aforementioned spreadsheet, and they look fairly flat in the anechoic case, but if I consider room gain, there's a huge peak in the lower end of the spectrum (should room gain be a consideration in the enclosure design?)
So, that's where I stand. The money wouldn't be such a big deal if I wasn't a full-time student in downtown Toronto. As I just started graduate school, I'll be a student for some time to come.
Do any DIYers have an opinion on these ideas?
-Nick
P.S. Let me thank Dustin, with whom I've been communicating via email. He's quite an advocate of the DIY route, and seems to have ensnared another person (read: me).

 

[ThomasW]

IMO the Xmax and the power handling are too low on the JL driver.

 

[Ron D Core]

I have had JL Audio drivers in my house and the only one that worked really well was the 15w3. The problem with them is that they are designed for a flat response when placed in a car's trunk. They require small boxes and when you try to build larger enclosures for them the response and efficiency go down the drain. I'm a big fan of JL Audio but the only ones I would put in the house would be the 15w3 or w7's. If you're concerned with price, try Adire audio or BPD's at Link Removed