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Home Theatre in a Box (1 Viewer)


Jul 8, 2004
Hi guys,

looking at purchasing a HTIB for my bedroom. At the moment I have a crappy little one with 5 x 30w max power speakers, and 60w max power subwoofer and wouldn't mind one which is more powerful.

Also, what is the difference between max power and RMS with regard to watts???

just wondering if anybody has any experience with the following HTIB models?

Panasonic - scht878
Panasonic - scht07
Panasonic - scht928

Sony - dasb300
Sony - htddw760
Sony - htddw660
Sony - htddw860


Dom P

Stunt Coordinator
Dec 30, 2003
Max power is power they speaker can take for only a brief amount. RMS is average power they can take all day long.

HTIB from mass produced companies are usually not so good. But depending on your budget and goal maybe it will suit you fine. I don't think you're going to find many people with HTIB systems here.


Mar 3, 2004
RMS Power Bandwidth: The frequency response or range used when determining the built-in amplifier's RMS power rating. Optimal is 20-20,000 Hz, the range of human hearing. Some models provide frequency response ratings for source functions (CD, cassette, etc), but not for the amplifier itself.

RMS Power Output: The amount of continuous power, measured in watts, that an amplifier produces is called RMS power. The higher the RMS figure, the louder and cleaner your music sounds.

The RMS output figure is preferred to use when comparing different receivers.

Peak Output: Peak power is measured during a brief musical burst, such as a sudden drum accent. Some manufacturers display peak power ratings on the face of their products.

The RMS power rating is more significant, and most recommend using it for comparison purposes

HTIB can be decent starter systems. I started out with an nice onkyo HTIB

Joe L.

Stunt Coordinator
Oct 18, 2003

Now, even RMS watts does not tell the whole picture. Distortion is equally important. So 100 watts RMS at .01 percent distortion is WAY better than 100 watts at 10 percent distortion.

Lastly, and even more important is loudspeaker efficiency combined with amplifier power. A small, sealed enclosure is less efficient than a large ported enclosure (for a given driver)

I once owned speakers that produced 90db SPL, measured at one meter distance at 1000Hz when fed with 18 watts of RMS power. Most "hi-fi store" efficient speakers were able to produce the same 90db SPL with about .5 watts power. In other words, my speakers were 36 times less efficient to get to the same volume.

I ended up building monoblock amplifiers that could deliver over 500 watts RMS to each speaker to get realistic listening levels.

To double the volume (3db more SPL), you need four times the power. So...

My old speakers (Ohm Acoustics Model F):
90db SPL = 18 watts (RMS)
93db SPL = 72 watts (RMS)
96db SPL = 288 watts (RMS)
99db SPL = 1152 watts (RMS)

Efficient Bookshelf speakers (JBL Century 100):
90db SPL = .5 watts (RMS)
93db SPL = 2 watts (RMS)
96db SPL = 8 watts (RMS)
99db SPL = 64 watts (RMS)

I think now you can see how unless you know the speaker efficiency it is nearly impossible to compare power output claims, even if given in RMS watts.

So... my advice, go listen to the HT in-a-boxs you are considering and decide with your own ears. I have an Onkyo Homevision HTIB in my Den. It is rated at 30 watts RMS per channel and had a 60 watt subwoofer. I listened to all that were available at the local Circuit City and Best Buy before deciding. There are major differences in how they sound, even among units in the same price range.

Joe L.


Mar 3, 2004

Joe is right. I can recommend what I think sounds good but you might think it sounds like roadkill.

Personally I have listened to systems priced more than my house is worth and while they generally are louder than mine, with my hearing they dont sound that much better.
Then again my hearing sucks from working on hotrods all my life. :)


Jul 11, 2004
Rowan, personally I don't think the $499 Onkyo HTIB can be beat in its price range, nothing under $500 touches it.

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