Gregory Scott Bass
Stunt Coordinator
- Joined
- Jun 30, 1997
- Messages
- 180
I posted this over at avs and thought I would archive it here in case any of you buy this set. Scott
Hi, first I want to say thankyou to all the people who have posted here...this has been an awesome source of information and helped me make what appears to be the best tv purchase I have ever made. I spent 10 hrs or more reading your post and I am including instructions for red push and service menu convergence from people here at the end of this post just so it is all in one place for anyone else that wants to buy this set.
I did the red push adjustment immediately and magic focus....I was surprised that geometry looks almost perfect right out of the box and video essentials shows overscan at about 5% ....acceptable to me. I have not done manual convergence yet but after running magic focus there were only a few spots that I could distinguish any color other than white.
I am using dishnetworks 6000 hdtv reciever and I hooked up both component and s-video. during my red push adjustment I used the same values used for "f" for all inputs "4" etc... my settings after this fix and video essential adjustment are
contrast-26
brightness 50
color-50
sharpness-1
tint -default
through component on dish red is still very pronounced but does not bleed at all so I am happy with my settings. I have seen the post about green being lime green and I did notice this tendency and so I went and turned on my old rca cinemascreen and did a direct comparison of colors with the hitachi. the verdict is green is the same color as the rca(westminister dog show on usa network) but it is much more saturated....it looked washed out on the rca in comparison but it was the same color. I feel sure that this is the effect people are talking about.....perhaps if you could adjust only the saturation control on the hitachi it would look a touch more natural on sd channels...but maybe at the expense of hd...something to look in to. having said that its not really objectionable but I would probably tone it down a touch if I could.
I made a pretty significant discovery last night....in my opinion component sd did'nt look as good as s-video sd....more artifacts in the upconversion process....so I had resolved myself that I would have to switch inputs when watching hd vs sd.....which disapointed me because I really wanted to have all tv on one input, so just out of curiousity I changed the dish 6000 to out put 720p......it was amazing....when you do this the tv lets you choose 540p or 1080i conversion....now my sd channels look better through component than s-video. and the line doubler in the set is so good I could not see a difference between my hd channels being upconverted to 1080i or being sent to it in 1080i natively. hd really rocks of course...it is amazing a picture can be so good on a tv so large....truly awe inspiring. I do not know technically why 720p in combination with the hitachi's line doubler would make such a difference but trust me ..its not subtle
on to dvd's I think this blew me away even more than hdtv....I put in starwars attack of the clones and went to the clone factory and the scene where old darth vader is romping in the meadow with the princess and it looked just like hdtv....probably the cleanest most beautiful display I have ever seen on any tv....and this is before I have even done manul efocus or manual convergence.....either I got lucky or the guys at hitachi really have there act together.....I still can't get over this and I have owned the sony xbr800, the rca 38310 and my old reliable rca cinemascreen(analog sorta) plus I visit hi end av stores all the time to see whats new and I have never been so awestruck before...its that good......well thats it....now I am just going to repost the instuctions I stole from here. Scott
.................
red push instructions
Since there seem to be a few folks new to the red push tweak for the SWX/TWX/XWX, (and those
asking me about my settings again in pm), I thought I'd make a quick repost of the ISF
settings I used to eliminate red push on my set.
Anyone can do this, and as long as you write down your original settings, there's really no
risk of messing things up. This also assumes that you have a disc like AVIA, (however even if
you don't have AVIA, you can use this tweak, see below.)
1. Enter the Service Menu
You do this by pressing "Input/Exit" and the "Power Button" at the same time on the front of
the TV. (Not the remote.)
Hint: Hold down the "Input" button, and then press the Power button. When you do, immediately,
let go of both buttons, and the Service Menu will appear.
2. Enter the ISF Menu
Use the joystick on the remote to scroll down until the very last menu selection (on page 3)
which says "ISF Mode". Once selected, hit a 'right' on the remote joystick to enter the ISF
Mode.
3. Write down your original default settings
Write down your numbers for the following settings:
(Red Hue Settings Below)
RY-PH-4
RY-PH-F
RY-PH-G
(Red Saturation Settings Below)
R/B-GA4
R/B-GAF
R/B-GAG
(Green Hue Settings Below)
GY-PH-4
GY-PH-F
GY-PH-G
(Green Saturation Settings Below)
G/B-GA4
G/B-GAF
G/B-GAG
4a. Make Color Adjustments
NOTE: If you don't have AVIA, skip to 4b.
As Mfusick did a great job in explaining, do the following:
Use the AVIA flashing color bars and with the appropriate filter. First select the blue bars
and adjust the color and tint. Then select the red bars and adjust the R/Y and R/B controls.
Then select the green bars and adjust the G/Y and G/B controls. Then start at the top again.
After you complete the above process about 3 times you should have the chroma portion of your
set nailed.
4b. Steal My Settings
"Good artists create. Great artists steal." - Pablo Picasso
I was using the AVIA disc with the Panasonic RP82 in 480p, Progressive on. Here's the
before/after I got, and just for reference, I have the TWX20B, and these are just the settings
on my set, your mileage may vary:
Original ISF Settings (red push way off)
RY-PH-4 00
RY-PH-F 00
RY-PH-G 00
R/B-GA4 0C
R/B-GAF 0C
R/B-GAG 08
GY-PH-4 02
GY-PH-F 02
GY-PH-G 03
G/B-GA4 00
G/B-GAF 00
G/B-GAG 00
New Settings ISF (after adjusting with AVIA; Color is great!)
RY-PH-4 00
RY-PH-F 02
RY-PH-G 00
R/B-GA4 0C
R/B-GAF 03
R/B-GAG 08
GY-PH-4 02
GY-PH-F 01
GY-PH-G 03
G/B-GA4 00
G/B-GAF 04
G/B-GAG 00
I then took the progressive mode OFF on the Panny RP82, and re-checked the AVIA color patterns
in interlaced mode (480i), and the color seemed dead on.
5. Write down your new color settings
Just for the ISF color values listed above.
6. Optional: Repeat the values from (F) to (4) and (G)
If you have HDTV, you can make these adjustments 'across the board' by entering the same
values for (4) and (G), for the values you obtained for (F). I don't think you will have any
issues. I don't.
6. Ensure settings are "locked"
You make adjustments to the numbers by moving the joystick to the left/right. When you have
the numbers you want for each setting, hit "enter" on the joystick, (by pushing it in), and
that will lock in the new setting. Make sure all settings have been "entered" in, and then
turn off the TV.
7. Confirm ISF Settings
Go back into the ISF Mode, and confirm that the new values are displayed for the color
settings above.
8. Re-adjust user control settings for COLOR, etc. With AVIA.
Now that you've corrected your color, you may find that you can bump the COLOR setting way up,
and you wont see red/orange over saturated flesh tones. (Example, my "COLOR" setting in the
user control is set to 46% after the red push tweak.) As always, individual results may vary.
9. Enjoy Reds, Without Red Push
I love this set.
__________________
Mike McGee
Oakland, CA
Regarding the F, 4 and G settings in the ISF menu. I had my set ISF'd last week by Robert
Busch in Northern CA (one of the original ISF Techs who has done work for Lucas at Skywalker
Ranch). Anyway, he did put at 1080i signal generator up on my 57SWX20B and when we did the
color decoder for the 1080i settings, we came up with the exact same settings for 4, F and G.
In hindside, this makes sense to me. The settings are different than what is posted here
because once grayscale was redone, it shifted the colors a bit (not much though). My settings
are as follows:
RY-PH- 02 (4, F, G)
R/B-GA 02 (4, F, G)
GY-PH 01 (4, F, G)
G/B -GA 05 (4, F, G)
Color 5A (4, F, G) - He changed G to match 4 & F
Tint 42 (4, F G) -He changed 4 and G to match F (default value on my set)
B-Cut-S from 7F to 8D
SUB-BRT from 7F to 7C
G-DRV-S from 5D to 6B
R-DRV-S from 56 to 5D
R-CUT-S from 83 to 82
User Menu Settings are:
Contrast 25
Brightness 46
Color 50
Tint Middle
Sharpness 38
These are the settings for MY set. These settings, especially the drives and cuts, probably
won't transfer to other sets. From what Mr. Busch told me, each set is unique in it's
settings. Hope this answers some questions.
Dave
PS The set is much better now than before. My wife complained that the picture was too "dark"
before and that colors didn't stand out. They do now, she noticed right away and thought the
$550 was worth it!
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Garand Jinn
Can someone break down the cuts and drives in the ISF menu? Specifically the H, M, and S
values----and the differences between a "cut" and a "drive"? I have read some general info
about there function (greyscale), but nothing very specific as to what each does...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EASY---
S= standard color temp control
M= Medium color temp control
H= High color temp control
Drives and Cuts are what are uses to add or take away color and set you grayscale.
Drives= Bright higher IRE part of the image.. like bright whites
Cuts= Darker lower IRE parts of the picture... what you would adjust to remove color from you
blacks or dark scenes.
Everything has a relationship to each other...meaning change one place can effect the
others....
................
service menu convergence
DCAM is the name for the Service mode convergence.
You enter DCAM by setting first in the user menu magic focus to "AUTO" mode and pressing the
magic focus button on the front of the tv set under the lift up lid to start the magic focus
sequence.
Once the magic focus is running....you hit magic focus button on the front of the tv
again.....this gets you a quick "STOP" screen.
Quickly, before it goes away you need to hit either the "INFO" or the "STATUS" button on the
remote control (R/C) to enter the DCAM mode.
DCAM is the name of the service menu convergence system.....
You can do much more with DCAM....and even adjust geometry (green color)
Here is some quick instructions on how to learn DCAM convergence:
Manual Convergence for the Hitachi
1) Receive an NTSC signal.
2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus
3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the ‘stop’ screen
4) While stop screen is up, press STATUS or INFO on the remote control (R/C) to bring you to
DCAM mode and the service grid (64 point grid)
5) When you first get in here… I believe red is the selected color by default (it is
flashing).
6) To choose other colors to converge, use the following buttons on the R/C:
a) “STATUS” - Green
b) “0” - Red
c) “ANT” – Blue
7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I
adjusted red across the whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted
that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you may want to go back and adjust some red
again… etc. until the convergence looks good.
(a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).
(b) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point color.
** There have been other posts in here to tape together the color filters found in the Avia
DVD to help converge lines more easily. I have used this method, and it works well for
adjusting to a greater detail. Basically, you put the red filter next to the green and adjust
your red to the green line both horizontally, and then vertically. Then you do the same with
the blue next to the green. Some people recommended you should be at normal viewing distance.
I did mine from just a few feet back from the set. Maybe my eyes aren’t as good… maybe I just
felt like it worked better this way. There are some other posts also recommending using
binoculars. I think it’s great that people suggest things to make the process easier… but my
girlfriend would think I was insane if she saw me with binoculars on the couch adjusting the
convergence. I don’t know… whatever works best I guess.
8) I did not adjust the green at all. I use the green as the guide and did not adjust the
location of any green point. This is highly suggested unless you have geometry problems.
9) When going along the lines and adjusting, you may run into the problem of getting an ‘S’
curve on the line. You’ll know if you get there. Basically, no matter what you do to adjust
the line to be converged, the middle of the line between the points will not straighten out
(it bends between the points). To fix this, the manual recommends going to the (7x5) mode
which gives you less points to adjust. I had this problem, and the solution worked. There is
also another mode (3x3) which gives you even less points. Basically, if the set looks good,
you only fine tune it in (13x9) mode (64 point). If you have serious problems, the grids work
as:
3x3 – ‘coarse’
7x5 – ‘medium’
13x9 – ‘fine’
10) To get to each of these patterns use the following on the R/C: (only if you need to)
1. (3x3) Press “STATUS” 5 times (only works when DCU is in uncorrected state)
2. (7x5) Press “0” 5 times
3. (13x9) Press “ANT” 5 times
11) If you adjust the 3x3, then you should go to the 7x5, and then the 13x9. You get the
point… depending on where you start, work your way up, and always finish on the 13x9
12) When finishing up the 13x9 mode, to get additional ‘grids’ on the edges of the screen,
press the PIP CH button on the remote control while in the digital convergence adjustment mode
(DCAM). Fine tune the edge convergence as necessary. To exit, press PIP CH again.
13) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is
displayed to alarm system that ROM will be overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE
button again to write displayed data to ROM.
14) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4 seconds and no picture will be displayed.
15) Green dots will be displayed when operation is completed.
WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE
BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC
FOCUS!
16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.
17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts
and several windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.
18) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.
19) Turn power OFF.
21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic
Focus button just to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few
steps properly)
Hi, first I want to say thankyou to all the people who have posted here...this has been an awesome source of information and helped me make what appears to be the best tv purchase I have ever made. I spent 10 hrs or more reading your post and I am including instructions for red push and service menu convergence from people here at the end of this post just so it is all in one place for anyone else that wants to buy this set.
I did the red push adjustment immediately and magic focus....I was surprised that geometry looks almost perfect right out of the box and video essentials shows overscan at about 5% ....acceptable to me. I have not done manual convergence yet but after running magic focus there were only a few spots that I could distinguish any color other than white.
I am using dishnetworks 6000 hdtv reciever and I hooked up both component and s-video. during my red push adjustment I used the same values used for "f" for all inputs "4" etc... my settings after this fix and video essential adjustment are
contrast-26
brightness 50
color-50
sharpness-1
tint -default
through component on dish red is still very pronounced but does not bleed at all so I am happy with my settings. I have seen the post about green being lime green and I did notice this tendency and so I went and turned on my old rca cinemascreen and did a direct comparison of colors with the hitachi. the verdict is green is the same color as the rca(westminister dog show on usa network) but it is much more saturated....it looked washed out on the rca in comparison but it was the same color. I feel sure that this is the effect people are talking about.....perhaps if you could adjust only the saturation control on the hitachi it would look a touch more natural on sd channels...but maybe at the expense of hd...something to look in to. having said that its not really objectionable but I would probably tone it down a touch if I could.
I made a pretty significant discovery last night....in my opinion component sd did'nt look as good as s-video sd....more artifacts in the upconversion process....so I had resolved myself that I would have to switch inputs when watching hd vs sd.....which disapointed me because I really wanted to have all tv on one input, so just out of curiousity I changed the dish 6000 to out put 720p......it was amazing....when you do this the tv lets you choose 540p or 1080i conversion....now my sd channels look better through component than s-video. and the line doubler in the set is so good I could not see a difference between my hd channels being upconverted to 1080i or being sent to it in 1080i natively. hd really rocks of course...it is amazing a picture can be so good on a tv so large....truly awe inspiring. I do not know technically why 720p in combination with the hitachi's line doubler would make such a difference but trust me ..its not subtle
on to dvd's I think this blew me away even more than hdtv....I put in starwars attack of the clones and went to the clone factory and the scene where old darth vader is romping in the meadow with the princess and it looked just like hdtv....probably the cleanest most beautiful display I have ever seen on any tv....and this is before I have even done manul efocus or manual convergence.....either I got lucky or the guys at hitachi really have there act together.....I still can't get over this and I have owned the sony xbr800, the rca 38310 and my old reliable rca cinemascreen(analog sorta) plus I visit hi end av stores all the time to see whats new and I have never been so awestruck before...its that good......well thats it....now I am just going to repost the instuctions I stole from here. Scott
.................
red push instructions
Since there seem to be a few folks new to the red push tweak for the SWX/TWX/XWX, (and those
asking me about my settings again in pm), I thought I'd make a quick repost of the ISF
settings I used to eliminate red push on my set.
Anyone can do this, and as long as you write down your original settings, there's really no
risk of messing things up. This also assumes that you have a disc like AVIA, (however even if
you don't have AVIA, you can use this tweak, see below.)
1. Enter the Service Menu
You do this by pressing "Input/Exit" and the "Power Button" at the same time on the front of
the TV. (Not the remote.)
Hint: Hold down the "Input" button, and then press the Power button. When you do, immediately,
let go of both buttons, and the Service Menu will appear.
2. Enter the ISF Menu
Use the joystick on the remote to scroll down until the very last menu selection (on page 3)
which says "ISF Mode". Once selected, hit a 'right' on the remote joystick to enter the ISF
Mode.
3. Write down your original default settings
Write down your numbers for the following settings:
(Red Hue Settings Below)
RY-PH-4
RY-PH-F
RY-PH-G
(Red Saturation Settings Below)
R/B-GA4
R/B-GAF
R/B-GAG
(Green Hue Settings Below)
GY-PH-4
GY-PH-F
GY-PH-G
(Green Saturation Settings Below)
G/B-GA4
G/B-GAF
G/B-GAG
4a. Make Color Adjustments
NOTE: If you don't have AVIA, skip to 4b.
As Mfusick did a great job in explaining, do the following:
Use the AVIA flashing color bars and with the appropriate filter. First select the blue bars
and adjust the color and tint. Then select the red bars and adjust the R/Y and R/B controls.
Then select the green bars and adjust the G/Y and G/B controls. Then start at the top again.
After you complete the above process about 3 times you should have the chroma portion of your
set nailed.
4b. Steal My Settings
"Good artists create. Great artists steal." - Pablo Picasso
I was using the AVIA disc with the Panasonic RP82 in 480p, Progressive on. Here's the
before/after I got, and just for reference, I have the TWX20B, and these are just the settings
on my set, your mileage may vary:
Original ISF Settings (red push way off)
RY-PH-4 00
RY-PH-F 00
RY-PH-G 00
R/B-GA4 0C
R/B-GAF 0C
R/B-GAG 08
GY-PH-4 02
GY-PH-F 02
GY-PH-G 03
G/B-GA4 00
G/B-GAF 00
G/B-GAG 00
New Settings ISF (after adjusting with AVIA; Color is great!)
RY-PH-4 00
RY-PH-F 02
RY-PH-G 00
R/B-GA4 0C
R/B-GAF 03
R/B-GAG 08
GY-PH-4 02
GY-PH-F 01
GY-PH-G 03
G/B-GA4 00
G/B-GAF 04
G/B-GAG 00
I then took the progressive mode OFF on the Panny RP82, and re-checked the AVIA color patterns
in interlaced mode (480i), and the color seemed dead on.
5. Write down your new color settings
Just for the ISF color values listed above.
6. Optional: Repeat the values from (F) to (4) and (G)
If you have HDTV, you can make these adjustments 'across the board' by entering the same
values for (4) and (G), for the values you obtained for (F). I don't think you will have any
issues. I don't.
6. Ensure settings are "locked"
You make adjustments to the numbers by moving the joystick to the left/right. When you have
the numbers you want for each setting, hit "enter" on the joystick, (by pushing it in), and
that will lock in the new setting. Make sure all settings have been "entered" in, and then
turn off the TV.
7. Confirm ISF Settings
Go back into the ISF Mode, and confirm that the new values are displayed for the color
settings above.
8. Re-adjust user control settings for COLOR, etc. With AVIA.
Now that you've corrected your color, you may find that you can bump the COLOR setting way up,
and you wont see red/orange over saturated flesh tones. (Example, my "COLOR" setting in the
user control is set to 46% after the red push tweak.) As always, individual results may vary.
9. Enjoy Reds, Without Red Push
I love this set.
__________________
Mike McGee
Oakland, CA
Regarding the F, 4 and G settings in the ISF menu. I had my set ISF'd last week by Robert
Busch in Northern CA (one of the original ISF Techs who has done work for Lucas at Skywalker
Ranch). Anyway, he did put at 1080i signal generator up on my 57SWX20B and when we did the
color decoder for the 1080i settings, we came up with the exact same settings for 4, F and G.
In hindside, this makes sense to me. The settings are different than what is posted here
because once grayscale was redone, it shifted the colors a bit (not much though). My settings
are as follows:
RY-PH- 02 (4, F, G)
R/B-GA 02 (4, F, G)
GY-PH 01 (4, F, G)
G/B -GA 05 (4, F, G)
Color 5A (4, F, G) - He changed G to match 4 & F
Tint 42 (4, F G) -He changed 4 and G to match F (default value on my set)
B-Cut-S from 7F to 8D
SUB-BRT from 7F to 7C
G-DRV-S from 5D to 6B
R-DRV-S from 56 to 5D
R-CUT-S from 83 to 82
User Menu Settings are:
Contrast 25
Brightness 46
Color 50
Tint Middle
Sharpness 38
These are the settings for MY set. These settings, especially the drives and cuts, probably
won't transfer to other sets. From what Mr. Busch told me, each set is unique in it's
settings. Hope this answers some questions.
Dave
PS The set is much better now than before. My wife complained that the picture was too "dark"
before and that colors didn't stand out. They do now, she noticed right away and thought the
$550 was worth it!
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Garand Jinn
Can someone break down the cuts and drives in the ISF menu? Specifically the H, M, and S
values----and the differences between a "cut" and a "drive"? I have read some general info
about there function (greyscale), but nothing very specific as to what each does...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
EASY---
S= standard color temp control
M= Medium color temp control
H= High color temp control
Drives and Cuts are what are uses to add or take away color and set you grayscale.
Drives= Bright higher IRE part of the image.. like bright whites
Cuts= Darker lower IRE parts of the picture... what you would adjust to remove color from you
blacks or dark scenes.
Everything has a relationship to each other...meaning change one place can effect the
others....
................
service menu convergence
DCAM is the name for the Service mode convergence.
You enter DCAM by setting first in the user menu magic focus to "AUTO" mode and pressing the
magic focus button on the front of the tv set under the lift up lid to start the magic focus
sequence.
Once the magic focus is running....you hit magic focus button on the front of the tv
again.....this gets you a quick "STOP" screen.
Quickly, before it goes away you need to hit either the "INFO" or the "STATUS" button on the
remote control (R/C) to enter the DCAM mode.
DCAM is the name of the service menu convergence system.....
You can do much more with DCAM....and even adjust geometry (green color)
Here is some quick instructions on how to learn DCAM convergence:
Manual Convergence for the Hitachi
1) Receive an NTSC signal.
2) Press Magic Focus to begin magic focus
3) Press magic focus again during the magic focus process to get the ‘stop’ screen
4) While stop screen is up, press STATUS or INFO on the remote control (R/C) to bring you to
DCAM mode and the service grid (64 point grid)
5) When you first get in here… I believe red is the selected color by default (it is
flashing).
6) To choose other colors to converge, use the following buttons on the R/C:
a) “STATUS” - Green
b) “0” - Red
c) “ANT” – Blue
7) Start from the center of the screen and work your way out on one color at a time. I
adjusted red across the whole screen to match green. Then I switched to blue, and adjusted
that to green as well. After you adjust blue, you may want to go back and adjust some red
again… etc. until the convergence looks good.
(a) Use 4, 6, 2, and 5 on the R/C to move the cursor position(dotted lines).
(b) Use thumb stick to move the convergence point color.
** There have been other posts in here to tape together the color filters found in the Avia
DVD to help converge lines more easily. I have used this method, and it works well for
adjusting to a greater detail. Basically, you put the red filter next to the green and adjust
your red to the green line both horizontally, and then vertically. Then you do the same with
the blue next to the green. Some people recommended you should be at normal viewing distance.
I did mine from just a few feet back from the set. Maybe my eyes aren’t as good… maybe I just
felt like it worked better this way. There are some other posts also recommending using
binoculars. I think it’s great that people suggest things to make the process easier… but my
girlfriend would think I was insane if she saw me with binoculars on the couch adjusting the
convergence. I don’t know… whatever works best I guess.
8) I did not adjust the green at all. I use the green as the guide and did not adjust the
location of any green point. This is highly suggested unless you have geometry problems.
9) When going along the lines and adjusting, you may run into the problem of getting an ‘S’
curve on the line. You’ll know if you get there. Basically, no matter what you do to adjust
the line to be converged, the middle of the line between the points will not straighten out
(it bends between the points). To fix this, the manual recommends going to the (7x5) mode
which gives you less points to adjust. I had this problem, and the solution worked. There is
also another mode (3x3) which gives you even less points. Basically, if the set looks good,
you only fine tune it in (13x9) mode (64 point). If you have serious problems, the grids work
as:
3x3 – ‘coarse’
7x5 – ‘medium’
13x9 – ‘fine’
10) To get to each of these patterns use the following on the R/C: (only if you need to)
1. (3x3) Press “STATUS” 5 times (only works when DCU is in uncorrected state)
2. (7x5) Press “0” 5 times
3. (13x9) Press “ANT” 5 times
11) If you adjust the 3x3, then you should go to the 7x5, and then the 13x9. You get the
point… depending on where you start, work your way up, and always finish on the 13x9
12) When finishing up the 13x9 mode, to get additional ‘grids’ on the edges of the screen,
press the PIP CH button on the remote control while in the digital convergence adjustment mode
(DCAM). Fine tune the edge convergence as necessary. To exit, press PIP CH again.
13) When convergence is acceptable, press PIP MODE to write data to ROM memory. ROM WRITE? is
displayed to alarm system that ROM will be overwritten with new data. Press the PIP MODE
button again to write displayed data to ROM.
14) DATA WRITE TO ROM will take approximately 4 seconds and no picture will be displayed.
15) Green dots will be displayed when operation is completed.
WARNING: YOU MUST DO THE FOLLOWING STEPS TO COMPLETE MAGIC FOCUS INITIALIZATION!!! THERE HAVE
BEEN MANY POSTS THAT PEOPLE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITHOUT DOING THIS STEP BECAUSE THEY LOOSE MAGIC
FOCUS!
16) Press MUTE to return to convergence pattern, then confirm again convergence is acceptable.
17) Press PIP MODE and then PIP CH to initialize Magic Focus. The initialize operation starts
and several windows appear during this operation. It takes about 30 seconds or less.
18) When green dots appear, initialize operation is finished.
19) Turn power OFF.
21) Wait a few seconds. Turn the TV on, and you should have your normal signal. Press Magic
Focus button just to make sure the magic focus still works (and that you did the last few
steps properly)
