Help with router cutouts

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Scott Simonian, Mar 26, 2002.

  1. Scott Simonian

    Scott Simonian Screenwriter

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    Im almost done building my cabinet for my Tempest, YAY! I have the cutout for the Tempest, (2) flared 3" ports, and the AVA250. I dont know how much to route off from those. I went to the Adire site and they are there but they dont sound right. Does anyone know what the correct numbers are?
     
  2. Scott Simonian

    Scott Simonian Screenwriter

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    Oh yeah, when I mount the woofer on the bottom baffle, do I just use the screws or do I have to use some sort of special method to mount. What with the driver being so powerful and all.
     
  3. Rick Guynn

    Rick Guynn Second Unit

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    I would think that T-nuts would be fine. Don't forget to put some foam weatherstripping (or something akin to it) on the interface to ensure a good airtight seal.
     
  4. Scott Simonian

    Scott Simonian Screenwriter

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    Whats a T-nut?
     
  5. Rick Guynn

    Rick Guynn Second Unit

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    They are threaded inserts that you put into the wood opposite the side you are attaching the driver to.. Go here and look: http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/ps...&desc=Tee+Nuts
    You need to make sure they seat well when you use them though.. otherwise they could spin when you try to take screw back out..
     
  6. Hank Frankenberg

    Hank Frankenberg Cinematographer

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    I highly recommend threaded insert over Tee-nuts.
     
  7. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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  8. Bill Catherall

    Bill Catherall Screenwriter

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    Hank & Brian - Could you be a little more specific please? A tee-nut is one kind of threaded insert. Which kind of threaded insert do you recommend?
     
  9. David A. Frattaroli

    David A. Frattaroli Stunt Coordinator

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    Hear! Hear! I third the threaded insert. In fact, you could use a drill press to put them in straight. It's a woodworking technique but I'd be happy to describe it for you if you have access to a press.
     
  10. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Bill,

    A T-nut has teeth that dig into the face of the MDF whereas a threaded insert has threads like a screw. So the threaded insert screws into place and won't break loose like a T-nut. They both have internal threads to accept bolts. Some threaded inserts also press fit (or hammer!) into place. They have "barbs" to keep them from pulling back out.

    Brian
     
  11. Bill Catherall

    Bill Catherall Screenwriter

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    OK. Thanks Brian. As you said, there's knock-in, press-in, or screw-in types. I just wasn't sure if you recommended any specific one over the other.
     
  12. Scott Simonian

    Scott Simonian Screenwriter

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    Hmmm, okay. What do I need to buy?
     
  13. Greg_R

    Greg_R Screenwriter

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    T-nuts work well in plywood and work poorly in MDF (teeth flatten and don't grab the MDF). You can get around this by putting a thin plywood ring on the inside of the driver opening (gives the T-nuts something to bite into)...

    Greg
     
  14. Bill Catherall

    Bill Catherall Screenwriter

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    Scott - Having never actually used them, but just from what looks like would hold the best (from an engineer's point of view), it looks like the Knife-Thread Inserts for Wood would have the most holding power. Just follow the link to McMaster-Carr to see what I mean.
    Is this what you were recommending Brian? Do these hold well in MDF?
     
  15. Scott Simonian

    Scott Simonian Screenwriter

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    [​IMG]
    Uh, okay. How many do I buy? How long? How are they sold? In three pieces?
    Im assuming that they can be found at any regular hardware store.
    Sheesh. It was so much easier to just use screws on "regular" (read:low performance [​IMG]) drivers.
     
  16. Mike Dr

    Mike Dr Stunt Coordinator

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    I would highly recommend these:
    http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdet...ID=72&CATID=22
    instead.
    they are panel connectors, they do not have teeth, and offer a pretty much air tight seal.. on mine, I actually put some teflon tape around them before i inserted them to insure that there's no way in hell air is getting through [​IMG]
     
  17. jeff lam

    jeff lam Screenwriter

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    Mike those actually look like they would spin when you try to take them out. They don't look like they will grab the wood very well. Or did you glue them in the hole?
     
  18. Rudy H

    Rudy H Stunt Coordinator

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    I've used parts express (6mm) and home depot (10-32) t-nuts on 2 different sub projects, the PE ones going into 1.5inch MDF and the HD's going into 3/4inch, no problem with either. Except that the HD bolt heads kept getting ripped off :b
     
  19. Rick Guynn

    Rick Guynn Second Unit

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    Scott, yes you can get the Tee Nuts or the threaded inserts at your local hardware store. I recommend going to one of the local ACE hardware stores.. They usually have this kind of stuff, and it is easier to get help in finding them ;P

    Rick
     
  20. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Bill,

    Those are exactly what I was talking about. The one in the middle is what I have. They look like they'd be the best to me because they have a "head" on them. For this reason they will only go in so far. Also, you can use an allen wrench to insert them and can even get an insertion tool for your drill or drill press to put them in completely perpendicular.

    I bought mine from ACI (bought 100 pieces) along with some black pan head wood screws. They sent me the screws still in the original boxes from McMaster so I'm pretty sure the inserts came from there as well. The inserts require a 3/8" hole to insert them into and accept a 1/4" bolt, which is great for mounting a subwoofer.

    Jeff,

    I think the panel connectors have small "teeth" on them to help keep them in place so there's little chance of them spinning.

    Brian
     

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