Help! My SVS 20-39cs has stopped working.

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Zac_F, Mar 23, 2003.

  1. Zac_F

    Zac_F Agent

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    My 20-39 cs has stopped making any sounds. I checked the cabling, the sub amp, the receiver, all by unplugging the speaker cable from the SVS and plugging it into the woofer input of my bi-wireable main speaker. When I did that my main worked as expected with a test tone. Swapping directly back to the SVS got me nothing.

    Is there an internal fuse of any kind on the SVS? If I had blown the driver, i would think it would make some awful sound, not just silence. I'm willing to open it up if I have to, I built the mains that I'm using and am not shy about diving in.

    Other useful info: My receiver is an Outlaw 1050, my sub amp is a Part Express 250w plate amp in a box. I'm using the LFE out from the receiver to the sub amp, then the sub amp output wires are connected to a speaker cable with quick disconnects.

    It was working last night when the kids were watching a movie, and while it was somewhat loud, it wasn't nearly as loud as I've had it before.
    I bought it used (the seller had upgraded to another SVS) and it is not under warranty, but if the SVS guys have any advice I'd appreciate it.

    TIA

    Zac
     
  2. Edward J M

    Edward J M Cinematographer

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    Zac:

    I would immediately e-mail SVS technical support at:

    [email protected]

    I'm certain they will get back to you shortly with directions on what to do next. They read their email quicker than they catch up on the various forums.

    It sounds as if your trouble shooting was logical - especially if connecting the leads to another speaker provided a test tone sound. That pretty much eliminates the electronics end of things.

    I would say at this point you have an internal problem: A disconnected wire, a broken tinsel lead, or an outright blown driver.

    Question: Does gently pushing on the driver cone generate a grinding or grating sensation, or does it move smoothly back and forth?

    Question: Is this an original CS driver, or an Improved Standard Driver (shipping since mid-December 2001)?

    Question: What is your method of sub calibration (disc, test tones, SPL meter)?

    Question: How "hot" are you running your sub on the calibration as compared to the other speakers?

    Regards,

    Ed
     
  3. Zac_F

    Zac_F Agent

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    Question: Does gently pushing on the driver cone generate a grinding or grating sensation, or does it move smoothly back and forth?

    -Pushing at the driver is smooth as silk.

    Question: Is this an original CS driver, or an Improved Standard Driver (shipping since mid-December 2001)?

    -This is the improved driver. The date on the box is January 2002.

    Question: What is your method of sub calibration (disc, test tones, SPL meter)?

    -I used the receivers test tones and the Avia test tones, with the rat shack spl meter.

    Question: How "hot" are you running your sub on the calibration as compared to the other speakers?

    -I calibrated the sub when I got the PE amp a few months ago to about -3db from the mains using the receiver test tones. I didn't pull out the Avia disk, which experience has shown gives me a reading about 3db down from the receiver. I'm never sure which one to believe. My ears tell me the -3db is even too high. My wife of course tells me its all too loud.

    I guess I'll contact SVS directly. I've only heard good things about their support.
     
  4. John F. Palacio

    John F. Palacio Supporting Actor

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  5. Zac_F

    Zac_F Agent

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    Hmm. It read 3.4 ohms. So I don't have an open circuit, nor do I have a short.
     
  6. Edward J M

    Edward J M Cinematographer

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  7. John F. Palacio

    John F. Palacio Supporting Actor

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  8. Zac_F

    Zac_F Agent

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    I don't know what did it, but its working now. Dowsn't sound like I did any damage either, but I'm not stressing it yet.

    I must have had a bad connection, but I was able to get my main to respond to the signal without problem, and when I reconnected the sub I couldn't. Go figure.

    On the calibration question, I've always gotten different results between my AVR test signals and the AVIA disc. The Avia always has me lower the sub output by about 3db from what I calibrate using the AVR test tones. The AVR does not read 00 at 75db. I tend to believe the Avia, as my ears tell me the bass is "right".

    Now that I have it working again, I'm going to re-calibrate the whole system since I messed up every setting getting it to work.

    Thanks everyone for the advice.

    Zac
     

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