Help me make a sub, please...

Discussion in 'Home Theater Projects' started by Brett Creider, Oct 8, 2003.

  1. Brett Creider

    Brett Creider Stunt Coordinator

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    Ok so I haven't posted here...ever...but now I have a new project which is a subwoofer. I have 2 OLD 10"s in seperate cabinets but they are VERY old (like 20 years) and weak (25RMS each) so I am replacing them.

    I have a Sony STR-DE135 that I got from Best Buy a few years ago, $150. 100watts x 2 and I will guess that is max since Sony likes to BS wattage all the time.

    The speakers are also Sony's from Best Buy, SS-MB215 to be exact. They are 140watts x 2 max. 1" tweeter, 3" mid, 8" woofer. If you turn these up letting them do all the bass distortion becomes apparent, which is the reason I had "subs" because they didn't distort so easy and really helped the low frequencies.

    This is all for my computer, which is used for music, games and maybe one day movies but mostly music. The mobo is soundstorm certified, so there is not a problem there...

    But my birthday (18th) is coming up and I was going to improve my audio....now I have a few questions...


    I was reccomended the Dayton Series 2 sub...8ohms...

    And there is only about 2 different sub amps, so I gotta go with the PE 250watt remote controlled one...

    But it seems the amp puts out more power at 4 ohms, and at 8ohms it isn't even close to the sub's potential so I decided to look at the Dayton Quatro...a "Series 2" that is 4ohms...

    It does 4ohms, so it's much closer to the sub's RMS and it would seem a good match, and apparently it is "improved" over the Series 2...but it's cheaper...so I dunno...


    I am looking to have a new sub under 350...that or completely new speakers all together if these Sony's suck all that much...if I can still get good bass...



    Thanks.
     
  2. Anthony_I

    Anthony_I Stunt Coordinator

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    Look into the Rythmik Audio plate amps. more power and this guy can custom mod the amp with a XO bypass switch and phase control bypass switch if those are needed features.

    It is exactly the same the PE amps except no remote control. But it does have a defeatable/adjustable rumble filter as well. it is slight more expensive though at $140 USD. but there are upgrade options, servo/non servo based etc.

    rythmikaudio.com i think is the site.
     
  3. Brett Creider

    Brett Creider Stunt Coordinator

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    I dunno....That quatro only wants 300 RMS...so 380 is overkill....267 is fine for me....but if I don't have a sub to use the 380 then might as well keep the PE amp...
     
  4. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Brett,

    Are you wanting to use one driver or two? If only one, DO NOT even think about using the Rythmik amp. It's complete overkill for what you're wanting to do. You'd be much better off using the PE 150W amp (with the boost removed) along with the Dayton Quatro 8 in a ported enclosure.
     
  5. Brett Creider

    Brett Creider Stunt Coordinator

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    150watt? All I see is a 250 and a 120. 120 seems far too weak, 250 seems to do the trick...

    It will be only one sub too....


    If it's ported, will that make it boomier than a sealed enclosure?


    One last thing I need a box. If I can find one for cheap I'd get it over (trying) to build my own...
     
  6. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    I think it's rated at 150W (something like that) into a 4 ohm load. Trust me, I've used this amp, the 250W amp, and the Rythmik 350W amp. The 300-792 will be more than enough power for that driver. As I told Anthony, the driver's power specs mean nothing without taking into account EXACTLY what enclosure you're using it in.

     
  7. Brett Creider

    Brett Creider Stunt Coordinator

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    I am looking at the Dayton Quatro, the 15"....


    I guess I will get the 120watt but for a remote control and a lot more power for $40....



    If you can find me a box, I'd like that...any other good sites to look besides parts express? And are car boxes any good because you can find those real cheap on ebay but they seem kinda .... cheap
     
  8. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    There's really no need for the remote control. You should set the level on the amp once and leave it there. You can vary the sub out from your receiver if you need more/less bass.

    For a sealed sub I'd look at a 2ft^3 enclosure heavily stuffed. For a ported sub you'll want something over 3 times that size.

    You might be better off getting the 250W amp and the Dayton DVC 12" driver.
     
  9. Brett Creider

    Brett Creider Stunt Coordinator

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    Well it can't be TOO big....so sealed is the way to go I guess....


    12" Dayton DVC over the Quatro? I dunno since it's 8ohms it isn't pushin as much power (amp wise).....


    But how expensive would it be to make my own box?
     
  10. Brett Creider

    Brett Creider Stunt Coordinator

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    Oh also...I have a 100w x 2 stereo receiver feeding 2 3 way bookshelfs...that's it....so the sub will have no controls for it besides maybe my computer if I set it up running off the sub out it has or if I run it off the receiver....


    But the receiver has no sub controls...
     
  11. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    The DVC 12" has dual 8 ohm voice coils. Wire them in parallel for a 4 ohm load. A sheet of 3/4" MDF is $20 at HD or Lowe's so that and some wood glue is all you really need (and maybe some clamps).
     
  12. Brett Creider

    Brett Creider Stunt Coordinator

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    I just saw that part about 4 ohms total lol...


    So the 250 amp and the DVC...sounds good....


    How big is a sheet? I just wanna know how much it's going to take to build the 2/3cf box...
     
  13. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    The sheets come in 4x8 pieces or you can buy them in 2x4 pieces for about $5 each. All you really need for the DVC sealed is a 14" external cube, so maybe just buy a couple of the 2x4 sheets.
     
  14. Geno

    Geno Supporting Actor

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    BRETT, IF YOU WANT TO SAVE JUST A FEW $'S THEN GO WITH THE 120 AMP OR A 150 AMP. IF YOUR RECEIVER IS ONLY PUSHING 100 X 2 AND YOUR SUB IS PUSHING 250 THEN UNLESS YOU CALIBRATE IT CORRECTLY THEN YOU WILL DEFINATELY HAVE A BOOMY SYSTEM. WHAT IM TRYING TO SAY IS THAT IT SHOULD BE PROPORTIONATE TO WHAT YOU ARE DRIVING YOUR MAINS. i AGREE WITH bRIAN, IT WOULD BE COMPLETE OVERKILL.
    "Oh also...I have a 100w x 2 stereo receiver feeding 2 3 way bookshelfs...that's it....so the sub will have no controls for it besides maybe my computer if I set it up running off the sub out it has or if I run it off the receiver...."
    IF YOU SET IT UP THIS WAY, THEN YOU WILL DEFINATELY HAVE TO CALIBRATE, THRU YOUR COMPUTER, THE LEVEL OF YOUR SUB.

    ps - 2ft^3 enclosure heavily stuffed IS NOT 2/3cf box

    Pps - i just saw your home page, i just wanted to know if you listened to music more thru your computer than your HT. almost seems like a waste if you do cause your HT setup is sweet. although i guess they could be in seperate rooms.
    in the future, if you wanted 5.1 for your computer, check out

    http://www.midiland.com/proddetail.a...r=60&category=

    Even though its made for computers, it is my main pre/pro for my HT and although it is only 10% of good pre/pro's, the sound wuality is definately not just 10%.
     
  15. Brett Creider

    Brett Creider Stunt Coordinator

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    Well I want to have room to upgrade because I want this sub to last a while...it just seems a waste to me to get a 300 or 350 RMS amp and pair it with an amp that feeds half of what it can take...


    And the home theater needs new speaker stands (taller) and a real cabinet. The PC is in a completely seperate room and is usually where I am listening to music. Music is 3/4 of the time and gaming and/or movies is 1/4.


    I can handle turning the sub down to match the speakers which I always plan out the best spot for the sub placement, crossover and volume and all that...just if I ever get a real 5.1 or upgrade these mains and get a better receiver, I'd like the head room.
     

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