Help gathering materials!

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by tom_furman, Aug 3, 2002.

  1. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Ok..last night I went down to Home Depot to start buying some of the required materials.
    1. They didnt have an 20" Sonotube as I expected. So I'll have to call a construction company.
    2. The didn't have the right sized MDF. The "plain" (brownish with no laminate) only came in smaller pieces, and the only type that came in big sheets was covered in white laminate!!
    3. They didn't have a circle jig for my router. Any idea where I can find one of these?
    4. They didn't carry 6" PVC!
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Bill_Weinreich

    Bill_Weinreich Second Unit

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    Sounds like time to go shopping around.
    1. Try a local concrete company. I believe the lenghts are fairly long so you might have to build two[​IMG]
    2. Most lumber/home improvement stores should carry 3/4" MDF. My local Lowes has it for about $20/sheet.
    3. Sorry. Cant answer that one.
    4. Plumbing supply store.
    Good luck,
    Bill
     
  3. ChrisAttebery

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    Tom,

    Bill is correct, ANY big box or lumber yard should have 3/4" mdf. Call around and ask for it.

    I bought my Jasper Jig at Woodcraft, but you can get them at Parts Express or Woodcraft online.

    Did you find the 6" flares, or are you just going with a straight port?

    Good luck,


    Chris
     
  4. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Looks like I'm going to have to go with a straight port. I was unable to locate any flares. They do sell fancy 6" flared ports online but they cost like $60. So straight PVC (or tube) for me.

    Chris..the the jig worth the $40 price tag? it works with any brand router, correct?
     
  5. ChrisAttebery

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    Tom,

    For the $40 I think it is worth it. The one I got, I think it's a model 260, will do holes from 2 1/4" to 18" in 1/16" increments. It is simple to use, you don't have to calculate the finished diameter every time you want to change sizes. On my Shiva EBS box I cut 3 10", 4 7", and 1 11" hole in 3/4" mdf in 15 minutes or so. They were all perfect and it was easy. It takes more time to drill the center holes and put the double stick tape on the boards than to cut the holes.

    I have a simple criteria for buying tools. If it is something that I will have and use over a few years I buy the best tool for the job. If it is something that I think I will only use once or twice I buy something that is middle of the road, because I still wind up finding uses for tools that I bought 5 years ago for "that one job".

    BTW, if you don't have a router yet get the Dewalt DW621. I got one for my birthday and it is great. I wouldn't trade it for any other.

    Have fun with your project,



    Chris
     
  6. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Naw I have a router so I'm all set with that part.

    You said your jig can only go up to 18"..how did you get a big enough circle for your endcaps? (assuming you used a bigger tube than 18")
     
  7. Nick_Shah

    Nick_Shah Stunt Coordinator

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  8. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    My friend wants to know if there is anyway to cut the circles w/o a plunge router...just a normal one. I dont think so.
     
  9. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Hey guys...i see Sears has a "rotozip" cutter on sale this week. It has a plunge adapter and a circle jig included. Is there any reason this couldnt as well as a regular plunge router?
     
  10. ChrisAttebery

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    Tom,

    I'm building a box, no sono here... 3/4" mdf and maple plywood. It's gotta blend in with the cabinets or I'm not getting a sub. Know what I mean?

    The rotozip will probably work just fine. It uses 1/8" bits so you probably shouldn't try cutting more than 3/8" deep each pass. How many horsepower is it? I would think you need at least 1/2 to 3/4 hp to cut mdf at a good clip. Remember that these rotozip tools are used for cutting drywall so it might be a little slow for MDF.

    Good luck,



    Chris
     
  11. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    I wouldn't waste my money on the Rotozip setup. You may be able to do simple cutouts, but that'd be about it. You won't be able to do recessed driver cutouts, for example. Not to mention all the other woodworking fun you'll miss without a router!

    Pete
     
  12. Plus, the rotozip bits are bound to wear out really fast complared to normal router bits that are used to MDF duity.
     
  13. BrendanL

    BrendanL Agent

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    I've read on MAD and PE that the rotozip is skittish and squirrely to use. You don't need a plunge router, I use a regular craftsman router. Just lower it slowly into the MDF.

    Also, I found with my Jasper Jig, if you find a nail that is the same size as the centering pin, then cut the head off and file it smooth, it is faster. I'm sure neither of those is recommended, but I've built 2 AV281 towers, a short AV281 and a Shiva enclosure using it in that manner.
     
  14. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    I've just about given up on finding 20" sonotube in the Rhode Island / Massachusetts area. I called every buidling supply store, lumber yard, and concrete supply place and I can't find any! Most places only go up to 12", but I have found a few that sell 18" and 24"...NO 20"!

    Anyone know where I can find some??
     
  15. tom_furman

    tom_furman Stunt Coordinator

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    Ok...I've been mulling it over all night. If I do have to go with the 18" sonotube, will I still be ablt to flush mount my plate amp? it will be sticking into the tube quite a bit. Will that mess up anything inside, or will it actually help break up some standing waves in the longer 18" tube?
     

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