HELP - Design of sub box (size, shape, finish)

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Cam S, Apr 10, 2002.

  1. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    Well, my Shiva, AVA250, and FP4 port kit will be here any day now, and I still don't know exactly how I'm going to build my box.
    I like the looks of a traditional box, and the fact that I can do more things with it in terms of the finish on it. So a traditional box it is.
    BUT, I'm a little stumped on the exact dimensions (I need the 85L alignment) and port length. This is the shape and layout I am going for http://www.angelfire.com/movies/myho...ges/shiva2.jpg (nice work Kyle) and would like to duplicate it. I E-mailed Kyle and he said the dimensions were (LWH) 22"x16"x24.5" for a total volume of 3.4 cuft. So if dimensions are right, I could just duplicate that. Now for the finish.
    I really like the look of wood grain, so I want to veneer it. Though I have never veneered anything before so this is where I'm really stumped. I was at Revy and they had 2 kinds of veneer, both in roll's. One was 12", 24", and 36" wide and 96" long, but it looks like there are a few strips of veneer taped together to get the total width of the veneer, and the seems stand out, which I don't like. There is another kind of veneer roll which was available in a 24" width, and it seems to be one solid wide piece with no seems, it also says "pre-glued". How do you apply Pre-glued and non glued???
    Another option would be to use 1/4" (maple, walnut, birch etc etc) plywood and mitre the corners or to use solid wood in the corners instead.
    SO, what would be the easiest way to get the "wood grain" look I desire. My best friend has all the tools, table saw, router, etc etc, so I should be set for tools.
    I appreciate all the help you guys have given me thus far, you guys are the reason why I went ahead with ordering the parts and this project. So thankyou for the help![​IMG]
     
  2. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    The pre-glued is definitely the easiest for the beginner. There are "iron on" and "peel & stick" available. P&S will remind you of contact paper. Iron on has to be applied with...an iron (set on high). Regular veneer is usually put on with contact cement.

    Choose whatever veneer looks good to you. If it's one seamless sheet of veneer with random swirling grain patterns, it's probably rotary cut veneer, which is usually the cheapest. If it looks like wood planks butted edge to edge, it's usually plain sawn and more expensive.

    Pete
     
  3. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    The different rolls of veneer were the same price, for the same amount. same kind of wood too, and they both had the same grain pattern.
     
  4. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    any suggestions guys, my parts are arriving today!
     
  5. Dave Poehlman

    Dave Poehlman Producer

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    Veneer is nice because you can still get the benefits of using MDF and achieve the look of wood.
    For me, I prefer using the paper backed veneer and adhereing it with contact cement. I've used the iron on stuff and it was difficult to get the edges to stick. The contact cement isn't that hard to work with... it's just a little scary because you get one shot at sticking it.
    You may want to invest in one of those edge trimming tools to give you a nice clean edge. Also a roller is a good idea.
    Also make sure your box is relatively smooth. Bumps like screw heads and misaligned joints will be visible through the veneer.
    As far as finishing it, follow the instructions of the finish you choose to the letter.
    I've used oak veneer on my projects because I wanted to match the woodwork in my house and it was the cheapest. [​IMG] But theres a zillion different types of woods and finishes you can choose.
    Good luck!
     
  6. Dave Poehlman

    Dave Poehlman Producer

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    Oh yeah, you asked about box dimensions... you can find some cutout diagrams at Adire's site here.
    The shape of the box isn't really important. The amount of space inside is. So, as long as you don't change that, you can pretty much do what you want with it.
     
  7. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    Dave, I was looking at your shiva sub, and noticed you used the Oak veneer. I want to use this same stuff as well. When using Contact Cement, do I have to worry about bubbles and things like that, or will it go on pretty smoothly. As for the trimming part of it, my friend has a veneer trimmer, so I'm set.

    Also, what's the formula for finding Cubic footage of a box if you know the LxWxH. Mine will be 22"Lx16"x24"H.
     
  8. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    Haha, nice sig pic btw Dave. What's the name of that baseball announcer guy you had in the other one who always said "Just a little outside". that guy was hilarious in the movie Majour League.
     
  9. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    I'll also be filling any holes, smoothing all edges, and sanding the box ALOT to make sure it's nice and smooth with no irregularities.
     
  10. Dave Poehlman

    Dave Poehlman Producer

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  11. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    Dave, I'm really stumped now. The owner of the box that I linked to said that those were his dimensions and that the box volume was 3.4 cuft, modeled after the SBB4 adire alignment. But from what I calculated and what you have, it comes in at 4.8 cuft??? now I'm confused. How much volumed will the Shiva, FP4 port kit, and the amp take up??

    I want to go with the 95L enclosure, but am stuck on the box size now, AHHHHH.
     
  12. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    haha, ya those sic pigs are prolly the best I've seen. The Bob Uecker one is the best though, especially with the quote below it, haha.
     
  13. Chris Popovich

    Chris Popovich Stunt Coordinator

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    You're getting different volume numbers because you've forgotten to account for the thickness of the material; the volume you need to calculate is internal, and minus the driver also.

    Chris
     
  14. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    the internal volume of the box would be 22"Lx14.5"Wx22.5"H. This works out to 7177.5 Cubic Inches, or 4.163 cuft gross volume. The Shiva displaces 0.106 cuft, so that takes the net volume down to 4.057 cuft. What amount of volume with the full length FP4 take up???
     
  15. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    Hey guys, how much space should there be between the back of the port and a side of the box?? The PDF of the Vented Shiva alignments show the 95L box as 20" high OD, and with a full length FP4 kit that would leave about 2" between the insde port flare and the wall. Is 2" enough room?
     
  16. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    can anyone help me out with this? I wanna start the project
     
  17. ThomasW

    ThomasW Cinematographer

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    There should be a distance equal or greater than the port diameter, between the port opening and the boundry.

    So a 4" port should have a mininium of 4" of space between it and the boundry
     
  18. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    That doesn't make sense then, because on Adire's website, they have PDF file of a few vented Shiva box's, and the 95L one seems pretty tight to me, no where near 4" of clearance. Man is this ever frustrating getting the box right.
     
  19. ThomasW

    ThomasW Cinematographer

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    Cam

    Audio like everything in life is a series of compromises.

    The 'optimal' port placement is at least the diameter of the port away from any boundry.

    If given the dimensions of the box and the length of the port that can't be done, do the best you can.
     
  20. Cam S

    Cam S Screenwriter

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    So if I can make the design with a 2" clearance I shuld be ok? I'll try and give it as much as possible, but I wanna keep the box as small as possible as well.
     

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