Heart stopping bass - willing to build

Discussion in 'Speakers' started by Mike:Corb, Nov 24, 2003.

  1. Mike:Corb

    Mike:Corb Stunt Coordinator

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    I am going to college soon and I am buying a HK 325 refurb. I am not sure what speakers to get or sub. I like my HT loud and I can't afford a SVS for $600. I really want some major bass. I have decided I am willing to build. If someone could help my out with what type of driver to get and such I would really appreciate it. Also in the beginning this will be a in a dorm room. But my junior and senior year it will be in an apartment. I want to plan ahead and build a sub that will rock the place.

    Also, I also need a 5.1 speaker set up. I either wants sats, or bookshelves, no room for floors standing. I also work at best buy, so if you guys think the klipsch, or athena are my best bet. I can get those things pretty cheap.
     
  2. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    DIY with a some what less than $600 budget can produce heart stopping bass in a small concrete dorm room. You'll will have to be careful when you use it though as in that environment it will be able to get you in trouble really quickly. However, $600 budget in a moderate sized room in a house will not be able to produce heart stopping base.

    The other big problem is with a small budget, to get the big bass, you need to go with a large enclosure. Dorm rooms aren't condusive to 200L plus subs.

    Do some reading in the DIY/Advanced area on the Stryke AV series and the Adire Tempest. Everything you need to know to design and build a sub with one of these drivers can be found there.
     
  3. Mark Seaton

    Mark Seaton Supporting Actor

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    Mark Seaton
    Your best means to get loud is efficiency. Since you will have to pack this up from time to time, I would suggest a pair of moderate size enclosures rather than one large one. Something like a pair of vented Shivas or PE-DVC 12" drivers would be a good start. Start looking at the modeling programs, such as the free version of LSPCad available at Adire's website with their drivers already in the program. 15" drivers would be great, but then you will likely be considering sealed versions unless you are willing to build some pretty big boxes. I suggest to aim for design with a smooth/more gradual roll-off to the bottom end, as the smaller rooms of college will yeild a lot of low end boost, and the drivers will be better protected. Look for a -3dB point of 22-26Hz with hopefully a -10dB point below 20Hz in the ideal. If you find boxes are too large for what you want, there are some other 12" woofers at Parts Express which will work in smaller boxes but with slightly less low end, but plenty of output. You will be missing a lot if your design isn't ~flat to say 26Hz or below.

    Good luck, and be sure to check out the DIY forum here.
     
  4. Darren Haycock

    Darren Haycock Second Unit

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    Mike, just try to be considerate of others is all. I'm doin' the college thing and living in a condo. I've got the Tiny Mighty II, a great budget sub, and we decided to watch Lion King (Home Theater Mix) one night. A couple of friends said the place was shaking a couple of floors up. Not that you shouldn't enjoy some nice bass now and then, but just remember that sometimes you have to compromise, a lesson I've been learning lately. [​IMG]
     
  5. Mike:Corb

    Mike:Corb Stunt Coordinator

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    thanks guys for your help, but maybe I should rephrase what I am looking for. I will be using this sub for 80% movies and 20% music. I play my movies loud and when there are explosions I want to be able to feel it. I am not sure whether I want ported or sealed. I haven't never dealt with home audio subwoofers before, only some experience with an infinity perfect car audio sub. I don't want the enclosure to get to big I would say 3 cubes max. I am looking into subs for stryke and adire. I am not sure if I can get a 15 or not with only 3 cubes to work with. Could you guys help me out with what sub I should get and if I should go ported or sealed? Thanks
     
  6. RichardH

    RichardH Supporting Actor

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    As far as the speakers, if you work at BB, and like it loud, definitely go for the Klipsch. The money you save w/ your discount will buy a better sub (or materials).
     
  7. John S

    John S Producer

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    Get two refurbished AR 12" Powered subs.. lol

    I'll bet that would do it.. And under budget...
     
  8. Mike:Corb

    Mike:Corb Stunt Coordinator

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    John, were you being serious about the 2 AR 12's, will that sound good or why did you put the "lol"? Also I like the svs design so I could make my sub with sonotubes. I think I might be able to go up to 4 pushing 5 cubes if I did that design. My budget for amp and sub is probably going to be somehwere around 350-400max, would rather only spend low 300's though. For some reason I want a tempest, I mean I have heard so much great stuff about this driver and I kinda want a 15 over a 12. Or if anyone thinks there is a sub premade that will suit me, shoot away. So could I do a 15 in a sonotube 4-5 cube. if so should I go for a stryke or adire? I have so many questions, sorry, I just absolutly hate wasting my money and want to get something nice. Also, if the Dual AR 12's would really pound hard, I would consider those.
     
  9. Edward J M

    Edward J M Cinematographer

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    http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Vent...plications.PDF

    Build an SBB4 alignment with the Tempest. The entire box plans are here, with dimensions, for free. It's only 24" square and 30" tall - not too bad.

    While this box is optimized for the Tempest, it might also work pretty well with the Stryke AV15 II. Check with Stryke to be sure and compare T/S parameters on the drivers. The Tempest and the AV15 are both really great drivers for DIY applications.
     
  10. John S

    John S Producer

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    Well one pounds real decent for the money, I am sure two would pound amazingly.

    I put the lol, becasaue this is my budget sub I have been suggesting to people with really great results for the money.

    I have never tried two of them, but one, almost meets the bill in all honesty. I know of three people that seem quite satisfied with them on their systems. I just ordered another one for a system I am giving to my B-in-law & family, I have no reservations about them. I swear they pump as well as the like 400 watt JBL sub, so many seem to suggest on here. The thing goes way loud without degrading bass content. An over achiever, I would call it for sure. But I am sure there are some others that may have low opinion of it. Beware, it is considered a musical sub too, but I have found no flaws with it's HT performance, but I have to admit it has what I consider to be premier performance on music content. My Velodyne 15" Sub only sounds good on music if I remember to flip the switch is all.

    I am banking that 2 of them, would give you all the bass you could ever want really.
     
  11. Mike:Corb

    Mike:Corb Stunt Coordinator

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    thanks john, I will have to research a little more, I will be using the sub for a least 80% HT. I generally don't like subs loud when listening to music. I am really confused on to build or buy still but thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
     
  12. John S

    John S Producer

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    On the sub not loud using music content? Your saying you would run your fronts as large and use stereo? If that is true, then yep. But once you get a sub, at least try running your fronts as small and crank that sub, you may change your mind as it free's up so much amplifier power for the imaging part of the content is all. But those things are way personal preference.
     
  13. DavidLW

    DavidLW Stunt Coordinator

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    Sounds like what you need (for your movies at least) is one or two earth shakers or whatever they're called. Someone on this board knows what I'm talking about. It's a driver without the cone that you bolt on to your couch or to the floor underneath the couch. It effectively turns your couch or floor into a woofer cone. You feel the effect more than hear it. Theaters way back when use to use them. I remember reading about them being use for the movie Earthquake back in the 70's. I also remember them costing from about $150 to $250 a piece. I still see some members here refer to them and am sure that they are still available. It's the same principle as the force feed back on certain joysticks and steering wheels for games.
     

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