GR Research Paradox 1 cabinet pics

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Brian Bunge, Jun 27, 2002.

  1. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    I thought I'd share some pictures of a pair of GR Research Paradox 1 cabinets I built for a customer. They are wrapped in cherry veneer and stained with red mahogany dye. The flash really brings out the red, but in person they're a deep reddish brown color. They look very similar to an antique red cherry finish.
    Scroll to the bottom of the page for the
    three pictures.
    Brian
     
  2. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    I loaded your link and then went to a different post not thinking I was gonna have to respond.

    But damn Brian, your cabinets just keep getting better and better. Those look incredible.


    As an asside have you thought about using a laminant on the faces and then doing some raised wood trim work on all the edges (well except no raise on the baffel or bottom)?

    I'd like to try something like this, but I'm unsure how I would attach the trim and get it lined up right at the corners.
     
  3. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Dustin,

    Thanks for the compliments!

    Concerning your question above, I'm not sure I follow you. Are you talking about hardwood corners or something like that? Can you give me a picture example of what you're talking about?

    Brian
     
  4. Kyle Richardson

    Kyle Richardson Screenwriter

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    Very, very nice Brian! Very elegant looking.
     
  5. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    I'm thinking along the lines of taking your typical perfectly rectangular box and putting a nice laminant on all the sides (probably something with a stone or marble type look). Then adding wood trim (I guess molding might be a more appropriate term) to all the edges. This sub has the general idea, but you have to scale it down with slimmer molding suitable for a speaker.
    http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htfo...t=tempest+pics
    Although I'd want to have the molding fit flush on the baffel and be rounded over. And then the bottom of the speaker wouldn't have the molding wrap around, it would be like the baffel, flush, but with no round over.
    I'm unsure if I'd want just the molding on the top or a solid chunk of wood just like the linked sub.
     
  6. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Dustin,
    That sub looks like a clone of the Titan II LE seen here. I thought about doing something like that.
    I think I know what you're getting at though. I'd build the enclosure and veneer it, cut out the corners with a rabbeting bit (or do it on the table saw), and then glue in hardwood corners. I'd make them slightly oversized so that you could trim them flush with the veneered faces and then round them over with small (1/4-3/8") roundover bit.
    Does that sound like what you're wanting to do?
    Brian
     
  7. Rob Lloyd

    Rob Lloyd Stunt Coordinator

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    Dye goes deep into the wood's surface. You can't remove it by sanding. Where a pigment stain (most of the typical cans you'll find in the home centers) sits on top like paint. If they are very dark, it will cover up the wood like a paint. Where a dye will make it very dark but allow the grain to show through.
    A dye will also help show any wood figure present, blend sapwood in and is available in any color you can mix up. It's available in liquid form or powders to mix yourself.

    I hope that makes sense.

    Nice work Brian. Those look great. Now I'll have to do something fancy w/ the AV1+'s!

    Rob
     
  8. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Rob,

    I think you meant to say you can't remove dye by sanding it. You can remove stain.

    I personally like to use the Solar-Lux dyes that WoodCraft sells. It's premixed and is non-grain raising so it's very easy to work with. You can also mix their different colors to get different shades.

    Brian
     
  9. Rob Lloyd

    Rob Lloyd Stunt Coordinator

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    Brian - Yes I did. All fixed.... Thanks for the catch.

    Rob
     
  10. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    Almost, I think this is what you are envisioning (last picture):
    http://members.aol.com/ipoweret/PA281II.html
    I was thinking about having it overlap the veneer or laminate and be 1/4 to 1/2 an inch higher than the box sides just like the sub. The molding would also either be rounded or bevelled down to the box sides. Except on the baffel and bottom where it would need to be flushed up.
     
  11. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Dustin,

    OK, I think I got what you mean. I think you'd have to do the front the way I described and then let the wood overhang on all the other sides. You'd probably have to route the edges of the other hardwood before you applied it.

    Brian
     
  12. Dustin B

    Dustin B Producer

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    That's what I thought, and that's the part that scares me. Cutting all the molding before hand and hoping I was accurate enought to get it all fitting snug.
     
  13. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Studio Mogul

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    So what's a good color/finish for this red oak veneer I have sitting in a closet?

    BTW, very sweet looking cabinets, Brian!
     
  14. Martice

    Martice Screenwriter

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    Hey Brian. Nice cabinets. As they say in basketball "You got skillzzz!!"
    I'm having Rob do my cabinets soon. However, the AV1+'s sound so good that I don't mind how they look unfinished. [​IMG]
    Good hearing from you again and why don't you e-mail me about that sub you built for that customer. I'd love to hear what he thinks.
     
  15. Kevin Deacon

    Kevin Deacon Second Unit

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    Brian, how are you getting the veneer edges to be virtually invisible? Are you using paper backed veneer? Those cabs look sweet.
     
  16. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Kevin,

    Yes that is paperbacked veneer. But we're switching over to NBL veneer. We were having some problems with the veneer bubbling when we applied a finish, which isn't an issue with NBL. Also, the quality of the NBL seems more consistant and it takes the dye much better. So in the future there will be a slight edge, but the quality of the cabinets otherwise should be superior.

    Brian
     
  17. Brian, the bubbling...was that when you used contact cement? I have had no problems at all when I used a PVA glue (PVA veneer glue has a lot of filler stiff to plug up the pores of the veneer so the oiling won't seep through)
     
  18. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Tony,

    Yes, that was with contact cement. I'm not familiar with PVA glue.

    Also, Hank has bought some FSV (flexible sheet veneer) glue that is supposed to be nice. You can place the veneer down and still move it around before it sets. Only drawback I see is that it only has a 5 minute open time so it would make my nice rounded edges hard to do.

    Brian
     
  19. Rob Lloyd

    Rob Lloyd Stunt Coordinator

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    What finishes were you having problems with bubbling on the paperbacked stuff?

    Rob
     
  20. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Producer

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    Rob,

    We had problems with water-based pre-stain conditioners, Solar-Lux dyes, and some paint.

    Brian
     

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