Good place to get a 15" passive radiator? (1 Viewer)

[Jeffrey Noel]

I can only seem to find them for sale at Adire Audio's web-site. Anyone have any other recommendations?
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God bless :usa:
jeffrey noel
My DVD Collection

 

[Rick Chwiendacz]

Adire's PR-15 is indeed probably the best 15" PR in existance right now. For cheaper PRs, with a little less claimed displacement, try www.stryke.com. Stryke's PRs are excellent. Lambda Acoustics (www.lambdacoustics.com) does produce some of their own as well - you might want to ask them if they have any available.
I'd stay away from any autosound PRs, such as the Earthquake SLAPS and others - they're not worth the money - not even close.
- Rick

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Well, that's certainly a vote of confidence for the PR-15. I received mine, and while I don't know when I'll get a chance to build a box for it, I certainly won't be hiding it on the back: it looks tre cool.
Jeffrey, I was thinking that tuning a PR (or port, for that matter) is not the easiest thing to do without the proper equipment, especially for a first DIY sub. In your case, it might be best to go with the Shiva and PR-15 combo, here's why: If you tell Dan W. (Mr. Adire)the box you're using, he can not only suggest the optimal alignment for you, but he can probably pre-load the PR-15 for you ,or at least supply the correct mass to be added (I don't know how well loaded PR's ship). I'm thinking the "Adire" or "SBB4" alignments, from the http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/PRApplications.PDF

 

[ThomasW]

I've have 3 brand new (still in original boxes) Stryke/Lambda 15" cast frame PR's, with user adjustable mass loading. Also have 3 that were mounted in a Stryke cube. Will sell at prices well below my cost, email me for details
Regards
ThomasW
[email protected]

 

[TerryC]

On the PR subs I've built I've made my own adjustable weights.
1)I first take a piece of MDF and using a 2.25" hole saw on my drill cut out a little puck of MDF.
2) I then take a 1" Boring bit and cut about 1/3" inch recess into the center of it, then followed by a 5/8 drill bit right through it.
3) I take a 3.5" X 5/8" bolt and slide it through the puck so its head sits into the recess I made.
Now it needs to be weighed, write the weight on the inside of the PR so you never forget it.
4) Load the inside of the recess of the puck with Epoxy glue and also load the back of the PR area thats inside the tube that's on the back of the PR(al least Adires PR-15) with Epoxy glue and insert the bolt/puck assembly into the tube and let dry for a permanent bond.
Now all one needs to do is add 5/8" washers(about 25grams each) and the subsequent nut to hold them for the mass. Of course they need to be weighed and one can't forget to add the original mass of the PR and the additional mass of the bolt/puck to the weight.
PS- You may notice I can't account for the weight of the glue using this method, I figure it is very minimal (5 to 10grams) and won't have much if any bearing on my results.

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Great idea, Terry.

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