Good bowling ball for heavily oiled lanes?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Clinton McClure, Mar 25, 2002.

  1. Clinton McClure

    Clinton McClure Casual Enthusiast
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    I'm currently using a Brunswik Danger Zone on lightly - moderatly oiled lanes but cannot get enough bite with it on heavily oiled lanes to hook well. In a month or so, I'm going to buy another reactor ball specifically for moderately - heavily oiled lanes. Any suggestions?
     
  2. Frank_S

    Frank_S Supporting Actor

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    Clinton, maybe have your next ball drilled with finger weight or side weight. Either will alter the timing when your ball will start to hook on the lane. A softer compound ball with added side weight or finger wight will solve your problem. Have your ball drilled by a pro, he can watch your delivery and adjust ball drilling as well as ball selection accordingly. I have been out of bowling for many years so I can't help you with ball selection. Another thing to try for now would be to move back in the approach, that will get the ball rotating sooner, hence your ball will hook more, have more rotation. Don't know your average so sorry if you already know these tricks.

    BTW, I started bowling in the 70's and when we could'nt hook the bowl, we soaked them, hardness down in the 60's, that's when the PBA and ABC came out with limits of hardness, just a little trivia, enjoy!
     
  3. brian a

    brian a Second Unit

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    I throw a storm El Nino on oily lanes and it works great for me. You should be able to get a good deal on one, as I don't think storm is making them anymore. It works well in most conditions and hits pretty hard.
     
  4. Sean Conklin

    Sean Conklin Screenwriter

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    Clinton, Hi I didn't know you are a bowler, everytime I start a bowling thread, my own thread header is a "Thread Killer"!

    I would recommend a Storm Eraser with 3/4 ounce finger weight (assuming you throw a 3/4 roller), the Eraser will give you good length with STRONG back end reaction and is very reasonably priced. Also you may look into the Storm El Nino 2000 (a little more aggresive than the Eraser).

    I am just the opposite, I have a lot of revolutions on the ball and usually drill my balls with minimal finger weight even for heavy oil at regional and other tournaments.(I drill my own balls as I have experience and access to a ball drilling machine).

    Maybe you can elaborate on how you throw the ball (details please) and maybe I can recommend a specific ball that will give you the reaction you are looking for.
     
  5. Chris Tsutsui

    Chris Tsutsui Screenwriter

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    You could have your bowling ball "textured" at the shop for cheap. After the shop did it to mine, the ball had a lot more grip than if it was smooth and polished.

    Sometimes It would hook too early so I'd have to give it more initial velocity.
     
  6. Clinton McClure

    Clinton McClure Casual Enthusiast
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    Sean, I know basically nothing on the technical side of a bowling ball. I have heard of finger and side weight, but have no idea what they are.

    I'll try to give a brief example of my start and release. First of all, my ball is about 12 - 12.5 pounds. My starting position is one board left of center. I actually place my feet at the very back of the approach and have a four-step delivery. I put the ball down an inch or two beyond the foul line so I can get good speed and rotation. When I release, I aim between the second and third arrows and have moderate revolutions on the ball. On a moderately - lightly oiled lane, I can get the hook I need and pull back into the pocket. On an heavily oiled lane, however, I have to move around on the approach, (something like 8 or 10 boards to the right) but can never find a good angle. Usually under these conditions, my ball will sail straight down the lane at the angle from which it was thrown, rotating like hell, but not moving one board. I have found that if I slow down my delivery, I can get more hook, but at the price of less than stellar accuracy, less pin-action and a lot more 2-10 or 7-10 splits. If I speed up delivery, I get less hook but more pin-action.

    I clean my ball after every night out with Pro-Shot reactive ball cleaner and am currently a 165 avg with a high game of 236. (Last season, I was a 188 avg, but we never bowled on really oily lanes.)

    I have been using a Cobra II positioner for two years now, but have been thinking of going with a Mongoose full glove. Thoughts?
     
  7. Sean Conklin

    Sean Conklin Screenwriter

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    Clinton,

    First off I would move up to at least a 14 or 15 lb. ball. A 12 or 13 lb. Brunswick Danger Zone uses a "Pancake" weight block and does not have the aggresive weight block that the 14 or 15 lb. Danger Zone has.

    If you have a reasonable amount of revolutions(doesn't take much!) then you would see a world of difference by stepping up to a 14 or 15 lb. Storm Eraser or El Nino 2000, I mean the difference would be huge.

    Resurfacing your existing 12 lb. Danger Zone with 600 grit or less would result in your ball gripping the lane sooner but at the expense of back end reaction (typically).

    The Eraser or El Nino are a polished reactive resin, but are extremely aggresive even in heavy oil and would far out hook your present ball significantly, again move up to at least a 14 lb. so you can take advantage of the much more aggresive weight block.

    Your pro shop should be able to help explain these balls and the weight blocks and coverstocks.

    Keep us posted.
     
  8. Clinton McClure

    Clinton McClure Casual Enthusiast
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    Thanks Sean. Last night the owner of my local bowling alley and I duscussed different types and weights of balls. Most of his recommendations echoed yours. He's also letting me try out a Mongoose positioner for a few days to see if I like it. So far, it is better than the Cobra in that I am not "locked in" when I hold the ball. It's also a lot more comfortable and I can release easier. I noticed last night, I can get more revolutions with the Mongoose and I seem to get a better backend reaction, even though I am loosing hook. To adjust for that, I moved 6 boards to the right and I am reaching into the pocket consistantly now.
     
  9. brian a

    brian a Second Unit

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    I'd suggest you lose the hand gear and get comfortable throwing the ball without it. You'll gain a ton of control over your game. Most of the issues you're having with lane conditions can be overcome with grip/release adjustments. They are great tools to learn the right feel, but I think they hold you back once you learn that feel. Just my opinion.
     
  10. Sean Conklin

    Sean Conklin Screenwriter

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    I personally throw the ball free hand, I personally cannot stand anything attached to my wrist, however.... A wrist aid CAN be beneficial for some people, especially beginners or people with low revolutions who can benefit from the extra revolutions a Mongoose or other wrist aid can provide.

    Clinton: Good Luck, and please post your results with your new ball, if you get one.
     
  11. Clinton McClure

    Clinton McClure Casual Enthusiast
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    I have had too many wrist injuries over the years and my wrist is too weak to hold the ball without a positioner for support. [​IMG]
    After using the Mongoose for 3 days, I now have a more consistant roll. I bowled 17 of 24 games over 200 with a high game last night of 259. Woo-hoo!
     
  12. paul o'donnell

    paul o'donnell Second Unit

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    Wow,
    Bowlers on the HTF too! [​IMG]
    I haven't bowled for over two years when I hit 18 and quit the youth league I was in.
    I can't stand wrist supports etc, free hand all the way. [​IMG] I used to bowl a 16lb ball (can't for the life of me remember names etc) and I used to get great revolutions off of it.
    ------
    And damn, thats a rather great average you've got there Clinton. Good bowling! [​IMG]
     

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