Good 8" subwoofer driver (1 Viewer)

[Kyle Richardson]

My #295-310 was put in a 1 cu ft enclosure which is a bit smaller than optimum but I wanted to get a small bump in the midbass to help the "apparent" output of the sub. It's tuning was right around 30Hz if I remember correctly and for an $18 driver it was really quite impressive.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Kyle,

That's exactly why I built the smaller sub too. I was designing it to go along with a set of 5 3" drivers as well. I was still very impressed with the sound in the smaller enclosure. I ran it in my main system for about a week, and while it didn't have nearly the output of my dual 12" enclosures, it did quite nicely.

Brian

 

[Ches Campbell]

Thanks Kyle and Brian. Your posts pretty much sealedthe deal for me. I am gonna get two of the Daytons. 1.75 cubes aint too bad. Thanks a lot for the help. Oh yeah, Brian, what size port would I need in the 1.75 cubic box to tune it to 30 hz?
Thanks guys.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Ches,

OOPS! That should have read 2.75ft^3 since I was referring to Pete's recommendation for two drivers. You could go with 1.75ft^3 but it would probably sound similar to my single driver, .77ft^3 enclosure. It still sounds good though.

One 3" port with 1 flared end would need to be approx. 10" long according to Unibox.

Brian

 

[Kyle Richardson]

Brian,
Sounds like we did almost the same system! I built the single 8" sub and used the Adire AV3 for the LCR for a customer that needed a spouse friendly setup in their living room. They already had surround speakers in their ceiling so they just needed the front soundstage. They also didnt want to spend a lot of money on this system since they were building a dedicated HT room downstairs.
For his downstairs dedicated HT room we increased the output and did a SBB4 using a Shiva. Needless to say, both were pleased.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Kyle,

Sounds cool! I built mine just to play with and also to offer for sale to local customers that want Bose size with better performance and a cheaper price. I've only built 2 of the five 3" Tang Band aluminum cone driver enclosures. I'm going to try them both ported and sealed to see which I prefer. I think I can get decent output down to 80Hz in a 2L enclosure and a 1" port.

So far the sealed 2L enclosures sound awesome with the sub connected to my spare receiver in my spare bedroom that doubles as a "computer room/warehouse".

I just need to find some local customers for the little system!

Brian

 

[Cam S]

Hmm, I had another question in here, but the post somehow got deleted?? Ah well.

Allan, how much would it cost to ship a couple of the 4" full range drivers to Kelowna?? I'd really like to try making some cheap speakers, yet still decent sounding.

Also, will you be carrying any of woofer's larger than 8"??

One more thing, will there ever be box and XO designs up on the website for the different speakers?

 

[Anthony_Gomez]

Hey Brian, Those little clones sound pretty cool.

Got any pictures of them?! The best way to get the sold is to let them be seen and heard. See if you can get them down to the next DIY2002. I know it is a ways off, but it is the only event I can think of.

 

[Brian Bunge]

Tony,

I took a couple of pics a few months ago, but it was raw MDF. I'll be getting them back from my dad this weekend. We rounded over the vertical edges with a 1/2" radius bit and wrapped them with cherry veneer. We then stained them with Solar-Lux red mahogany dye. My dad should be finishing them up with 3-4 coats of clear wipe-on poly. We just finished a pair of Paradox 1's (but used a 3/4" radius) the same way and they look awesome!

The enclosures are 7"H x 5"W x 6"D. The driver is centered so that the enclosure will look fine placed vertically or horizontally for a center channel. Because of this if I port them it will have to go on the back but it will look better that way. And I'm way ahead of you concerning taking them to DIY2002! I believe the Atlanta event will be in October.

Vocals, strings, and piano are very impressive with these suckers!

Brian

 

[Hank Frankenberg]

Anthony, click on this link to some of our Austin HT meet photos. There is a picture of the prototype BoseBuster that Brian is talking about (TB driver). The cabinet is 1/2" MDF painted satin black (I hate paint!). They sound good and Brian and I are going to try a ported version which I think will be the final design. Any sales tips would be welcome by us!
http://home.austin.rr.com/colindunn/...anktheater.htm

 

[Anthony_Gomez]

Those look a bit larger than the Energy Take5's (original ones). Have you tried a side-by-side with those?
How much are you looking to sell a set of 5 for? (any idea?) If you do sell them to anyone on the west coast let me know! I'd like to give them a listen
There are only two things Iwould change.
1) black screws
2) formica laminate
YMMV
how low can they go? what is the XO frequency for the sub on these? (sealed version)

 

[Ches Campbell]

I finally got the tangband page to load. I put all of the specs in to WinISD, but the website did not have the Le listed. I do not know exactly what Le is anyway. It seems that I should be getting better results than I am getting with Le just at zero. Right now, without the Le, I am getting a -3 db at 50 hz in a .227 cubic foot box tuned to 37 hz, with a 4"x105" port. Now I know this is totally wrong. DOes anyone know what the Le for the Tangband 8" sub is? What does Le mean anyway? Thanks for the help.
Later

 

[Brian Bunge]

Tony,
I've got the black screws part covered! I hate (and I mean HATE) using silver screws. I'll get some pics of mine in deep red cherry veneer this weekend.
As far as how low they can go, in a 2L sealed enclosure they have an F3 around 140Hz but the same enclosure ported gives me an F3 of 80Hz. If I go with a 2.9L enclosure I can get an F3 of 68Hz (all sims of course). Although with an Fs of 109Hz, I doubt the 2.9L enclosure would be feasible.
Either way I think they'll kick the sh*t outta the Bose Lifestyle system, don't you?
We don't have any definite figures yet concerning price, but let's just say the 5 cubes plus sub would easily be under $1K. Probably well under that.
Brian

 

[Anthony_Gomez]

Ches, Le is the voice coil inductance. If I remember correctly, winisd doesn't even account for inductance. Inductance basically creates a low pass filter, so if it was to show up on winisd, you would see the top end of the plot roll off a bit.

If you are looking for a more accurate modeling program (it is free), do a search for UNIBOX. it is an excel based program. You can easily find the site with google.

 

[Hank Frankenberg]

Anthony, I assume your comments were meant for my BoseBuster prototype. Yes, I have black screws. I bought several sizes of square drive black screws from McFeely's:
Link Removed
And I won't paint cabinets for sale - way too labor intensive. Plastic laminate would be the way to go, or wood veneer at a higher price. With laminate, you don't get the nice rounded edges though. WilsonArt has some cool looking new thin metal laminates that I want to try out.
I haven't compared them with the Energy's, but if I can find a local owner who's willing, I'd like to.
I'm thinking about $350 for a set of five. Depends on final design total cost.
Ches, Anthony is correct. Le is voice coil inductance, complex value and I wouldn't be surprised if WinISD does not take it into account. Z or nominal impedance is not an exact value, Le is. For ballpark, take about 2/3 of Z and use that for Le. I bet it won't change the WinISD output.