glue stains on my oak veneer, help!

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Dan_D, Jul 9, 2001.

  1. Dan_D

    Dan_D Stunt Coordinator

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    hey all. my Tempest project is now about done and im sanding it all down good before i finish it. I unfortunately have a few ugly glue stains on it. (the things ive learned for next time....) Anyone have any tips or tricks to removing them? I guess of course sand them out, but the veneer is only so thick.. dont want to sand through it. Im pretty concerned because the stain wont take well in those gluey areas i imagine.
    any advice would be grrrrreat.
    Dan
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  2. James Mudler

    James Mudler Stunt Coordinator

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    Next time use tape for runs and over spills. If it is wood glue (yellow) wet it with water or mineral spirits and it should help get it up if you have not stained it.
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  3. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    Exactly what type of glue would help with a solution.
    Pete
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  4. Dan_D

    Dan_D Stunt Coordinator

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    titebond II wood glue
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  5. MarkDesMarais

    MarkDesMarais Stunt Coordinator

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    One of the less soluble glues. . .
    Sometimes scraping works well, or even shaving with a sharp chisel and a steady hand. Oak is open pored, so some of that glue is probably down there where it will be very hard, if not impossible to remove.
    How are you going to finish? Stain is usually the most problematic with glue- the glue takes (or doesn't take) the stain very differently from the wood. If you are putting on a clear finish, the glue may not show at all. Maybe make a test piece of glue contaminated veneer and test it. . .
    Markd
     
  6. Dan_D

    Dan_D Stunt Coordinator

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    i was planning to stain it.. [​IMG]
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  7. Pete Mazz

    Pete Mazz Supporting Actor

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    Dan,
    I posted this reply over at HTT.
    >>>Are you going to stain the piece or just clear coat it?
    If you're going to use stain it may be beyond help at this point. Veneer is so thin that any prolonged glue penetration will seal the area and, subsequently not let stain penetrate.
    However, if you want to try (scrap first), use a folded over cotton cloth (tee shirt) and dampen an area a little bigger than your glue spot. Apply this over the area and, with a hot iron, apply pressure on the dampened cloth. You're trying, basically, to steam the glue off and have it be absorbed into the cloth. This technique does not always work completely, especially if you want to apply a dark stain. It may also want to loosen the glue that is bonding the veneer to the substrate.
    If you're going to clear coat the piece, just sand as best you can. The glue area on oak shouldn't stand out too much.
    Of course, you could always add another layer of veneer on top of the existing one.
    Good luck.>>>
    Since you plan on staing the piece, I would sand as best you can, apply wood conditioner to the whole piece, and then stain. Hopefully the conditioner will even out the penetration of the stain. You would also benefit from a couple coats of stain. One trick you can try is to let the final coat of stain dry and then pad on a small amount of stain in the problem areas, let that dry, pad on some finish in the area, let dry and then finish as usual. The idea being to add some extra color to the area and not have it come off later when clear coating.
    Pete
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  8. Mike Lenthol

    Mike Lenthol Second Unit

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    If glue is visible now, before staining,... it would be 10 times worse after it. Even if the glue is wiped off RIGHT after applying, it will still be considerably lighter in those places. What you want to do is use acrylic based stains. They create a transparent tinted film on top of the wood more than absorbing into wood. Darkness is determined by the number of coats, should work from very light, to almost black finish.
    [Edited last by Mike Lenthol on July 10, 2001 at 06:51 PM]
     
  9. Dan_D

    Dan_D Stunt Coordinator

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    ah, thanks for the tip. ill look into those
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  10. Grant B

    Grant B Producer

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    glue stains on my oak veneer...isn't that a country song?
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    Why?
    Why do you keep hounding me and harassing me and hounding me?
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    It's not like the Phantom Cruiser is going to wax itself.
    It's not like last night's burrito stain will just up and remove itself from my cape.
    I am a superhero!
    A very very busy superhero! Who does...things!
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  11. MarkDesMarais

    MarkDesMarais Stunt Coordinator

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    In the acrylic stain vein- there are other finishing techniques like glazing where the color is carried in the finish- take a look at any book on finishing. Hit the library if you don't want to invest. Bob Flexner wrote a pretty good one. Glazing is how they get "cherry" to have that unnatural bright red appearance.
    Markd
     
  12. Dan_D

    Dan_D Stunt Coordinator

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    interesting. ill look into that as well.
    as of now i think ill have to clear coat it or use a acrylic tintlike finish. i have to do some reading tho.
    thanks again
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  13. Dan_D

    Dan_D Stunt Coordinator

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    Would tung oil be a good finish? its pretty natural and shouldnt highlight the glue stains.. any comments?
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  14. MarkDesMarais

    MarkDesMarais Stunt Coordinator

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    Tung oil is a film finish- should work ok. Again, I'd recommend taking the time to make a test piece and see how it will look (complete with glue stain). Nothing (well, very few things) suck as much as working really hard on a project and then being unhappy with the finish.
    As a first approximation of how a film finish might look, give the area a wipe with paint thinner or mineral spirits. That "wet look" is pretty close.
    Markd
     
  15. Dan_D

    Dan_D Stunt Coordinator

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    ok i will do that. thanks
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