general Linn and Ekwal, Espek questions

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by henning hoffmann, Dec 7, 2001.

  1. henning hoffmann

    henning hoffmann Stunt Coordinator

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    The new Linn Espek replaces the Linn 5140, and the Ekwal replaces the 5120.

    So, a couple questions:

    1. Since the speakers look the same, were there any real changes? Are they significant?

    2. Has the price changed?

    3. If I want to go active, can I use my own amplifiers? How would this work? This question applies to all speakers by Linn that can go active.

    Thanks for any help,

    henning
     
  2. henning hoffmann

    henning hoffmann Stunt Coordinator

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    Anyone?
     
  3. Trey Fletcher

    Trey Fletcher Second Unit

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    Henning,
    I'll do my best to answer your questions, though you may have found other means to get them answered in the time between your starting this thread, and me stumbling on it in a search...
    1. Yes the speakers look the same, but changes were made. Specifically, the tweeters are a completely different design, and made of a different material (no longer ceramic). Linn has also made changes to the electronics and the wiring options/configurations. I'm not an expert so I can't get into details, but the changes were made to increase the speakers performance, flexibility and ease of use (these speakers can be single wired, bi-wired, bi-amped, active bi-amped, tri-amped, and active tri-amped so the wiring can be confusing).
    2. Yes the prices have changed. I believe the retail for the Ekwal is now $1200, and the Espek $3600. Could be wrong on the Espek though.
    3. I'm 99% sure that you need Linn amps to go active (at least in their sense of the term). Linn amps (from the $800 LK85 to the $20,000 Klimax) have audio "ins" and "outs" on the back for the necessary wiring. Typically, an amp recieves a signal from a Pre-amp, amplifies it, and passes it to the speaker (motor). In an active Linn setup, the speaker's crossover is disabled/removed and the amp not only receives the signal, but passes it on to the next amp in the chain. Each amp has it's own crossover, and in this configuration, is powering its own driver (not an entire speaker). The results are amazing, but can get expensive.
    Signal Path: Source -> Pre-Amp -> Amp -> Amp -> Amp->. ....With each amp sending a signal to its dedicated driver.
    Sorry for the probably confusing explanation. Let me know if you have more questions.
    Regards,
    TF
     
  4. ChrisSk

    ChrisSk Extra

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    I asked my dealer about these the other day, as Trey has said the speaker case is the same but the drivers are different. I believe you can get the new drivers retrofitted to AV5140/5120s by Linn.

    To go Aktiv you can use your existing amps, you can get what amounts to an empty Linn amplifier case with the aktiv crossover cards installed which you can then use with your existing amps (remember you still need 2 or 3 amps per channel though!).
     
  5. Jerry Pease

    Jerry Pease Auditioning

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  6. ClaudeD

    ClaudeD Extra

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    Jerry, I didn't realize that the 5140 aktivation required soldering. The Tukan and 5120 conversion simply required snipping IIRC (and of course the xovers installed in the amps).

    Henning, I agree completely with Jerry on the cost-effectiveness of Linn amps and their synergy. It would be interesting to listen to speakers activated using a) tube amps and b) high-end SS amps (e.g., Theta Dreadnaught). I have never heard any such combinations and would be curious. I think 95% of the time when someone is looking to go aktiv with other than Linn amps, they're looking for a less expensive implementation, and that isn't so easy to do given the cost of the tune box (I think it's actually spelled tunboks in fluent Linnish). Since, AFAIK, the tunboks is simply providing a power supply and I/O connections, a reasonably proficient hobbyist could rig one up themselves for less than the purchase price, with probably no performance degradation. Personally, I'm not sufficiently skilled, and would probably blow up my amps and speakers while trying to save a few hundred bucks, or, for that matter, electrocuting myself.

    Claude
     
  7. henning hoffmann

    henning hoffmann Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks guys.

    How do I know if a 5140 is a "B" version or not? Will it say right on the speaker? It looks like I'll be getting a used pair of 5140s soon, but I don't know if they're "A" or "B". What's the difference?

    Henning
     

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