For all you techheads, please help (1 Viewer)

[David.G]

ok,does anyone know how to read the ratings of components used for amps and tell how much power they really can make? I'm looking into a company and know they're good quality and really good performance but was just wondering how to read the specs they give it. here's the link

TruTechnologies

I'm looking at the T series or the Tv.2 series.

 

[Matt`G]

As far as reading the generic info they gave on the series description page, I don't think it's possible to derive a power rating. They do list the power ratings though, when you select a specific model:

Model: T-2.100
Channels: 2 CH
Frequency Response: 10Hz ~ 45KHz ±1dB
Rated Power: 14.4 Volts DC
T.H.D.: < 0.05%
4 Ohm RMS: 100W x 2
2 Ohm RMS: 200W x 2
4 Ohm Bridged: 400W x 1

It lists the RMS power at 14.4V with the given impedences. Keep in mind that your car will be pushing less voltage than that (usually between 13-13.8V off your alternator), so RMS wattage ratings are actually lower than listed.

 

[StephenHa]

my car runs at 14.4, the real question is how do they get their ratings (what frequency was it at)

 

[HowardLi]

The frequency response listed is +/- 1dB, so you should get the same power at all frequencies.

 

[Stephen Matthew]

there is no enforced standard in 12v which is why youve got to be careful who you buy from. The tru amps i believe are rated full range, though most 12v amps are rated at 1khz.

killer amps btw, the only issue ive seen is that on some of the T03 models, there is a very high pitched whine coming from the amp itself.... not what you would expect from an amp of that quality.but all of the others are incredible and quite underrated.. build quality is obscene also..

 

[Denton]

More manufacturers are beginning to use the CEA's rating system. Curiously, one of the most active in this area has been Blaupunkt.

From Crurchfield's web site:


CEA-2006 Compliant
On May 28, 2003, the Consumer Electronics Association published standard CEA-2006, "Testing & Measurement Methods for Mobile Audio Amplifiers." This "voluntary" standard advocates a uniform method for determining an amplifier's RMS power and signal-to-noise ratio. Using 14.4 volts, RMS watts are measured into a 4-ohm impedance load at 1 percent Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) plus noise, at a frequency range (for general purpose amplifiers) of 20 Hz to 20,000 Hz. Signal-to-Noise ratio is measured in weighted absolute decibels (dBA) at a reference of 1 watt into 4 ohms. This applies to both external amplifiers and the amplifiers within in-dash receivers.

CEA-2006 allows consumers to be able to compare car amplifiers and receivers on an equal basis. Manufacturers who choose to abide by the new standard are able to stamp their products with the CEA-2006 logo that reads: "Amplifier Power Standard CEA-2006 Compliant."

 

[Stephen Matthew]

unfortunately the number is still somewhere around 2-3% of companies id wager that are using that standard...

 

[David.G]

if you look at components used you can get a general idea of capable power. The T03, more than likely you're talking about a pre-production one. I've called about a couple of them and they're not even out yet, or they were redoing them. Tru's amp are awesome and IMO beat out Zapco due to the surplus power supply they have. Talked with John Yi and he said Tru's power supply is 40% larger than Zapco and 100% larger than JLs. Thats insane. I've seen and listened to 2 cars using Tru and its incredible the detailed that amps are. CNC machined cases look pretty and their reproduction abilities are insane, especially with the Burr Brown upgrade( makes a difference in the mids).

 

[Dave Milne]

The switch-mode power supplies in high-power amps typically are regulated (pulse-width modulated). Therefore changes in input voltage have almost no affect on output power. The amp just draws more current from the car's electrical system at lower voltage

 

[David.G]

they're unregualted actually.

 

[Michael^DC]

My family has just recently purchased a Cd player. And is not really happy for it.
They seem to base it on looks.
So what does it come down to when you want to buy a good looking yet good power CD player?

 

[David.G]

get Eclipse, period. Pioneer have more flash and are good, but no one complains about Eclipse. Get like a 54 series. They're really good. Even Eclipse lower end, 34 series, is better than most mid level.

 

[Dave Milne]

 

[David.G]

here's from their website....John Fairchild is their main house engineer. Remember his name!?

- Broad Range 2 & 4 CH Class AB Amplifiers
- Constant Rated RMS Power Output until Thermal Shutdown
- 2 oz. “Pleated Hole” PC Board
- High Current Unregulated Bi-Polar Power Supply
- Hand Soldered 10 Gauge Power Wire on to the PC Board
- Discrete Amplifier circuitry
- PROPRIETARY RF grounding techniques
used for Improved Reliability and HF noise rejection
- (2) Differential pairs of complimentary input transistors
- (8) ON® TO-3 Metal case audio output devices
- (8) I.R.® HEXFET® Power Inverter for Efficiency
- (2) Power Transformers
- (4) 2,200mf 50 Volt Capacitors on Rails
- (2) sets of High-Speed rectifier diodes
- Symmetrically mounted heat generating parts
- 18dB Hi/Low pass filter (50Hz ~ 500Hz)
- Thru Output (RCA: Not affected by X-over or Gain)
- Variable Low Frequency Boost Circuit (T-2.100)
- Optional Remote Bass control knob (T-2.100)
- 4 Gauge Power/Ground Input
- 8 Gauge Speaker Wire Output
- Hand Built in California, U.S.A.

 

[David.G]

i really would like to find a place that states the specs for each little component, like what grade is a component and all. because power is power, no questio on that, but components used can change alot or to find actual power potential.