Fixing cinder block wall

Discussion in 'After Hours Lounge (Off Topic)' started by Jay H, Feb 16, 2006.

  1. Jay H

    Jay H Producer

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    What used to be a garage, from what the seller told me, was closed up long time ago using cinder blocks. I'm looking at repairing the wall, eventually painting it and certainly fixing the leaks that are quite horrid in that space. Right now, it's mostly bare concrete but it's apparent that there are patches of old paint, concrete patchwork and just old age that I'd like to fix.

    Pictures:

    http://community.webshots.com/album/547664467ZDFdvX

    I'd like to patch between the blocks, and eventually paint it with Drylok, a masonry waterproofer. It recommends using Muriatic acid to clear off any effluescence and of course, I will use a steel brush to clear off the flaking paint. Should I simply use a concrete patch to patch up some of the joints between the cinder blocks? I mixed a small bit last night and patched up gaping holes in the floor that is an obvious source of water and eventually I will use drylock Fast Plug to do the entire seam, but for the walls, anything I should look into?

    Jay
     
  2. Patrick_S

    Patrick_S Producer

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    Repairing the mortar between bricks (cinder block qualifies as brick) is called tuck-pointing. Do a Google search and read up on it.

    Quite frankly since one of your goals is to produce a watertight joint, I would recommend that you use an experienced mason.
     
  3. Jay H

    Jay H Producer

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    Thanks for the insight, I have looked at one of two sites for tuckpointing.

    I filled in some holes in the basement floor recently with some concrete. It appears that the foundation floor was either poured very sloppily or just real thin cause there were few holes about 1/2 inch wide where I could feel dirt underneath. So I filled it as much as I could with concrete.

    I don't know how much a mason would cost (maybe I should call those freemasons.. HAHAHA j/k) but I can't really afford much at the moment so I'm DIY at this point. I don't know the age of the wall but I would guess it was around 30-40 years old since the seller was there since '74 but I think the house dates back to the 50s and there was a garage there at one point.

    Jay
     
  4. MikeH1

    MikeH1 Screenwriter

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    I'm a journeyman bricklayer Jay and you have a good idea of what needs to be done.

    Scrub/steel wool the paint off first (prep it) then Patch up any holes, (let the mud set overnight) mix the muratic acid to a 1/10 water ratio, use a 5 gallon bucket and a long handled brush (wear some old clothes and gloves), scrub, let dry and then apply your sealant/paint.

    I know this applies more for Hydrachloric acid than Muratic but fill up the pail first with water and then add the acid, this way the acid doesn't violently react since there's so much water, if doing it the other way and adding water to a few inches of acid in the pail that initial splash of water can sometimes set off a nasty reaction, Muratic though is a lot tamer than Hydrachloric...

    I'm not sure what they sell in hardware stores for cement material in your area but we used Type S cement for practicly all projects, but since this is just a little patching it won't really matter if you use Portland Cement or Type S or whatever ...

    Happy patching [​IMG]
     
  5. Jay H

    Jay H Producer

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    Thanks Michael, I have a whole bag of portland cement at home, what I used to patch the floor gaps...

    Structurally, the wall is sound as far as I can tell, it's not bulging, small rodents aren't crawling through,etc. etc. I just want the wall to be flat when I paint it.

    Thanks for the tips on the muriatic acid mix...

    Jay
     

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